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Bought an upright tool off eBay and there was one problem, no bottom alignment rod. So, found a piece of stock Brass and carved it up on my Lathe. This is the result. The nails on one of the hinges were out and the hinge was rusted in place. So I used some small pointy watchmakers screws and replaced the nails. I then oiled the hinges and worked them in nicely. Next, the box fabric was unglued on the Tom so I lifted up the fabric and spread a light layer of Elmer’s glue between the wood and the black cloth: and put 4 magic books on top for an hour. Next step was to blacken the box as there were chips of cloth missing and it just looked tattered. So I used Kiwi Color shoe shine and it worked like a charm. Now I needed to shine up the cloth on the inside of the box the same was...and used a paintbrush for the corners bu dipping it in the show shine. Then I needed to clean up the red velvet on the inside so I used a lint role: as well as tearing off a piece for the tight spots. I also needed to clean up some aging mold sobthe line roll with some help with a fine screwdriver worker great. I then shoe polished where the mold was. The last step was to polish the Uprighting Tool using Peek and a lot of elbow grease. Here is the before and afterAnd the Final. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Over the last couple of weeks, I have been re-jigging my workshop so I can do Watch repairs in a more orderly manner. Its a work in progress but coming on pretty nicely. Best wishes from Jon.

Looking good Jon.

Today, accompanying me on my adventures in flat-pack-land is this HMT Rajat.

I suppose the main issue is the app, not so much the mic. I posted about unsatisfacting results with different Iphone apps here in the forum (maybe post was deleted by a kind moderator). I used special piezo mics as well as direct signal input with different volumes- Frank

Nice, I have this on my want list as I want to learn to repair fusee watches (and eventually verge fusee) and its not uncommon for those old watches to of been bushed at some point, and not always correctly, which is where the depthing and uprighting tools come in to use.

Well...strange things happen all the time. Truly inspiring and I must agree with your fundamental conclusion, if you want something that works simply and flawlessly out of the box, the Weishi is definitely not over priced. But still...there’s something about exploring the underlying reasons and possibly try to improve what you have. Kind of the same sentiment that makes watch work interesting... Some quick feedback from my experiences that might be interesting for others. - I find it consistently easier to get good readings with an open case and the mic directly over the escapement. Again I guess that has to do with limitations of the mic (and possibly the signal conditioning that follows). - I usually step back on the sensitivity to the point where I get no readings (or zero sensitivity) and then step up to where I get the most stable plot and reading. Sometimes this is significantly lower than the default 12 setting. - I tend to always use the noise cancellation option in the settings menu. Especially when it’s hard to get an amplitude reading this allows to increase the sensitivity without getting rubbish data. - It’s difficult to get completely clear lines, there will always be some outliers. To me this indicate that the s/w that detects the relevant points in the signal isn’t smart enough to sort these out as erroneous. Alternatively it’s the signal conditioning/filtering that could be better. - Fundamentally I wouldn’t trust the average readings produced when the plot looks like as with your 2nd watch. Garbage in => garbage out and averaging shouldn’t make it more reliable (unless there is actually more going on that we don’t see that removes outlier data) To conclude, it would be great with a follow up where you try to tweak the performance a bit. But I realize I’m probably a bit too nerdy here... :-) And I still wouldn’t be surprised if a better mic and some analogue filtering could do magic with the performance of the app. I know there are posts on that subject on the forum and I’ll see what I can dig out there. And you got yourself a new follower on youtube... :-) Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

The above are mild abrasives, they do nothing to glass. There are various polish thread on this forum, use the search function. Anyway: Place the wet paper on a plastic support disc 5 - 8 cm diameter. Observe from inner side that you are hitting to the correct spot, orthogonal to the scratch direction. You will see white streaks on the point you're abrading. Check often and as soon the scratch is gone then move to 600, that's the finest grip that will have some effect. After that you'll need diamond paste. You can't ruin a crystal unless you drop and chip it. Of course, on a faceted crystal, crisp edges cannot be preserved.

I'm think that is more an artifact of the low res display of the 1000 model than a real problem. In my opinion in the picture above the relation between lines is good, only the instrument draws some point one pixel off due to to rounding algorithm. In other words it makes you see things worst than they are.

If you look carefully at the actual statement its loose pallet stones etc. It's more of a generalization statement. The graphical display comes from the sounds of the escapement. One side of the escapement produces one line the other side the other line. Then there's a problem with timing machines and liquid crystal displays we can see the pixels. So the upper line is migrating relatively straight across the display moving up one pixel at a time but remaining straight. The lower line looks like it's wandering around both going up and down. It really should look more like the upper line. So anything that affects the escapement affects the sounds shows up on the display. As it looks like only one side then it would be typically one side of the escapement. So loose pallet stone possibly even the roller jewel which would affect both could be damaged and I've even seen a loose roller jewel only show up on one side. Escapement lubrication one stone gets lubricated the other does not look like this along with anything that screws up the escapement dirty escapement etc. So cleaning examining and re-lubricating would be a good idea. Then a watch made in the early 70s isn't exactly a vintage watch it really should look a little better.

The Lijac not only survived 24hrs without running out of steam, but it put in a pretty remarkable performance following the clean/service/adjust. I would put that at around -9½ seconds over more than 24hrs. Not bad for such a rudimentary movement. On the other wrist today was the eye catching Accurist Accu2. The effect of the very subtle regal blue sunburst dial isn't really apparent in the picture, but up close on a nice sunny day, it is very impressive. It shimmers from almost midnight blue to a very dark purple to all manner of shades between.

Motor oil? aye aye aye!!!!! get some bearing grease too...which btw I have found in at few watches if you don't want to buy a synthetic watch oil you can use a synthetic lubricant with Teflon. I bought two pen sized tubes from Radio Shack 12 years ago and still have at least 1/3 left in each. and you have to by watch grease to use on the stem tubes and area where the set lever pivots. Also, just a dab where the winding gear meets the mainspring gear. Works wonders! Basic "Network 54 Vintage Timex Watch Forum" method 3 cleaners. ammonia , water, lighter fluid > soak rinse soak, oil grease and on a personal note - just back from cardiologist and all is going very well since heart attack 7 weeks ago. Dropped 10 pounds so far and feeling great. He gave me the okay to resume normal activities and can't wait to get back to the garden.

You have been pronouncing it wrong all these years.

Super interesting!! I hadn’t seen any staking tool without a shaft to guide the stakes. There has to be a away set things up. I wonder if these sets are more accessories to a basic set rather than the whole tool by itself. I’m interested to learn more about this! Let’s see what the gurus have to say [emoji1303] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk