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If you want to know about the watch, the serial number is the long number 8 million dates it to about 1970-1971. The other number is broken down as follows the first two digits are the code for the movement used 08 was used for calibres 13-20, 13-21, 13-22 the second two digits 21 are Certina's code for a stainless steel case with gold cap probably 18 ct but could be 14 ct. The other number 449 is the model number.

The crystal looks like it could be polished. A little small but tape the case for protection. Lot of threads on polishing acrylic crystals on the forum. I see one problem . The crowntube is a little deformed. That has to be changed. If you like to change the crystal anyhow you could probably use a Sternkreuz ATC crystal. With gold tension ring. You have to measure the old crystal and order one in the same size. Cousinsuk is the best place to order from i think.

Can't tell whether it's a press fit (from the top) or glued to the case (installs from the inside of the case) but either way cousinsuk.com will have you covered.

well, it has took me some time but i have a functional watch again. I have polished the best i could, i am happy for my first watch repair.Don't know if i said that in another post, but this old watch belonged to my father so it has some sentimental value for me. Thanks guys for the hints.

This is how your watch should look : http://www.kaplans.se/en/auktioner/3119/vara/1260860

Can we ask where it is? ..Swatch for example? if so- you get a quick tour of the building, shown to a side room with you and whoever else is on a bench test too . Make friends with them quickly, you might need each other to help look for parts if you drop anything! your task is to simply service a nice watch movement EXACTLY to their requirements. Cleanliness and immaculate oiling is VERY VERY important! Don't rush. You get most of the day, use all the equipment in the room, (like binocular microscope for oiling escapement). Don't lose or drop or break/mishandle anything. Maybe chat to other employees on your lunch break, look to be bright, interested and organised and totally professional. Be smartly dressed- relax, it's a long day. At the end your watch will be looked at and assessed without you being there, you will then have a chat at the end and you'll be told what they think. How you conduct yourself is really important, take any criticism and use it to get better for next time if you are unsuccessful. Good luck! J

Although I have not seen one of these I can see how it works. It is for screw back cases. The tabs are for the different slot sizes in the case back and fit into the part (the bottom right of you picture).Then you turn it over and adjust the distance required then turn the whole unit to undo the case back. I guess the other part is a clamp to hold the watch case if a tight one is being undone. PS There was one on eBay SOLD & it shows instructions.

I can't view your video, but I suspect your problem will be the leaf spring that exerts pressure on the bottom of the second hand pivot is distorted slightly. This spring should press on the pinion slightly to damp the action of the second hand. When the pressure is too little, the backlash is transmitted to the second hand causing it to lash about. When the spring is set correctly, there is only forward movement of the second hand. The calibre 89 is one if my favourites! :-)

The one shown would be very simple to make, but as you point out its missing a great deal of the Feintaster's functionality. As well as the table, "claw" and complexly shaped contact points, there is also the lever controlling the plunger - a very important bit of kit on a comparator. I agree with you those extras are quite tricky. The parts should be hardened and achieving perfect alignment so all surfaces are the same distance apart is far from trivial. In making a gauge you need accuracy and precision, and you must work to a higher standard than .01mm if its expected to be reliable to .01mm As for what indicator, I'd thought a mitutoyo digital reading to .001mm would be good (and I have an extra lol). There is a convenient hole to use with a lever to actuate the plunger (as these indicators often are used on comparators) and with the press of a button you move from metric to imperial (while watchmaking might be all metric, most of other things in North America are still imperial, so for me there's an advantage in both) You also have instant zeroing which is convenient. I'm 60% through drawing a Feintaster with the view of making one, but secretly hope I stumble over one as there are some challenging bits and pieces. For anyone interested in having a go at it, here's a close up of the contact points - a unique design so you can get part of say a balance staff i the V and measure the rest of it

Do you have a lathe and mill? Making such a small and complex part is a very advanced task for today's (low) standards of watchmaking.

I would have a look at Michael Bolton's vids. He's on a Seiko forum. He's in the trade of abrasives so that side of things he knows a lot of and Is learning on restoring watch cases and bracelets. By no means an expert but you can appreciate the end results [emoji106] Sent from my Honor 5c

Personally I would polish the crystal accurately, and use generic gaskets.