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You have had a few answers telling you not to do it and you are still considering going ahead with steam??? I'll give you another good reason for not doing it. Brass expands approximately three times more than than the material jewels are made from when both are heated at the same temperature. If you go ahead, you will run the risk of jewels moving or falling out if the plate. Even if they don't come out completely, they may still move and screw up the endshake tollerances. I use an ultrasonic machine with good quality cleaner and it does a good job.

I personally have not got any problems with fakes/copies providing they are sold as such. It's when they are sold as genuine that is the real issue for me. As far as repairing I avoid and refuse to touch them. What worries me is after the repair and it is then sold as genuine am I then party to the fraud ?

I've had a fake Rolex open before and it also had a Chinese movement inside. The amazing thing to me was that a replacement movement was available for a mere $30 US. I'm still astounded that a fully jeweled movement can be produced at such a cost.

You could x-ray a watch movement with that thing. I love that channel. He makes some cool stuff.

Today Im wearing this very nice old Seiko....

This guy on Ebay have tons of old parts, here you can buy some practice movment. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/14pc-SEIKO-Automatic-Gents-MOVEMENT-6309-6119-7S26-7009-Parts-Watch-AsIs-/201762743242?hash=item2ef9ff23ca:g:OFAAAOSwnHZYYbqy

Got a new Poising tool today, one with a Bubble. Unscrewed the back where the bubble is and used a needle size syringe to put Alcohol into the level opening. Then I had to adjust the amount so I could get a very small bubble for more accuracy. As well, the tool came with undercutters that had one two sided bit. Not sure if it takes more bits. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

And this one: http://seikoholics.yuku.com/topic/111/Seiko-Mechanical-Chronographs-Tech-Manuals#.WICn7X3Rso8

Hello, That is nice to hear, you can do it ! I recentley did a service on a 6139-6002 Pouge, it is the same movment as in this black helmet , I put under here a video, you find the rest on Youtube. Very good learning.... and som partlist and exploded view drawing.... Good Luck.... http://www.thewatchsite.com/files/Seiko Technical Manuals/6119B.pdf https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vSrbjB5gi8w http://tech.gleaveandco.com/home

I'm a bit of a lamp guy, apart from my new LED work lights, I also have these two in my unboxing, and packaging area. Halogen is actually used to age dials. Anglepoise is a 1950's light that I love. DSC04799 by Micky Aldridge, on Flickr DSC04800 by Micky Aldridge, on Flickr

I use one of these as I don't have much room, and it was so cheap that I thought I'd take the risk. Lights well, though construction is quite flimsy: http://www.iconiclights.co.uk/industrial-style-linea-led-clamp-on-adjustable-desk-lamp-with-included-bulb.html?gclid=CO6XqrGHztECFQsTGwodzpAEpw

I can only imagine what the room cost with welcoming gifts like those... Ron

Very nice. Interesting to know about the bubble level. Mine does not have a provision to refill as it is a sealed unit. I have refurbished my Watch craft some years ago. Just finished the balance staff replacement and am refurbishing my truing calipers and cant wait to use them both. Will have lots of pictures of the staff replacement and the truing calipers and the poising tool. I think i love the tools as much as the watches. Ron

I use something called Euro Sonic (made in U.S.A. so go figure) that I bought from J Borel, but I would say you can certainly use ultrasonic solution used to clean jewelry. The problem with steam cleaning is the very high temps and pressured vapor, which might damage or warp some finer parts. I know, I know...the mainplate is just a chunk of metal. But is you consider the incabloc setting, or the cannon pinion/ great wheel that in some movements cannot be removed, then you might have problems. I've had the little legs of incabloc and KIF springs bend or break even though they were closed because I gently cleaned the mainplate with a soft toothbrush to get dirt out and inadvertently brushed the shock settings. My example is different than using steam, but it still might damage something . I don't use any brushes when I clean a mainplate because soaking in ultrasonic solution and rinsing alone usually will make the plate shiny and clean. I then use the compressed air to get the water out of the crevices and then soak in fresh naptha--done! You're right about cleaning jewelry with steam, but jewelry is made to withstand general abuse form the environment, whereas internal watch parts are not. Now, a watch case, sure I would steam clean a watchcase as long as the crystal is removed. I would also clean metal watchbands with steam. Hope this helps.. JC

Whoa

Naptha is the way to go. If there is a lot of dirt, get yourself some ultrasonicating detergent and place the dirty parts along with a little detergent in a cup of hot water. Rinse off and dry with compressed air, dip part again in Naptha to displace residual water and dry. Works for me. Joe

@RyMoeller I visited your blog and I'm impressed about what you have achieved. My first Landeron 48 was for me a total write-off. This time I hope I have some more luck. Initially I was looking at a Poljot 3133, but after bouncing idea's backwards and forwards with forum member George Clarkson, I went for the Landeron 48 again. Not 100% sure if the movement looks as "pristine" as on the 2nd picture above, the seller posted namely also a darker, a bit un-sharp picture from the same angle; Reality may be a bit in between. Still, most "ingredients" seem to be present and even spring 8270, often bend, kinked or broken seems to be in good shape It's meant as my 60st birthday present. I could perhaps have chosen an "all singing & dancing", and more expensive, Landeron or a Poljot, but that would have been too easy and quite frankly, very boring. For me it's more about the hunt, not so the catch. It would be nice if I could bring this one back alive and in "pristine" condition. That would be a nice birthday "marker". Hope that I can lean on as many experienced shoulder as possible!

I would stay away from steam because of the heat, more than because of the water. Watch parts are not meant to be exposed to intense heat, I'm not sure how the different metals will react. Some of them will expand more than others, resulting in parts that end up out of alignment. If you're on a budget, use lighter fluid (and a small paint brush for tough dirt) to clean the parts, and then 99% alcohol to rinse and remove any moisture (except for balance wheel and pallet fork). We're talking a $20 investment that will last you a decent time.

I appreciate all the comments. I can post some individual pics but I don't have a photo of the entire collection. Thanks PS these are the colored Plastic boxes that the 992B was introduced in 1940. War shortages cause the different colors and they all went back to Ivory in 1946.