Leaderboard

i say, whatever does the job.

Looks in good condition. Thanks for the bigger photo.

Thank You for the informations! No, its just a guys clock on another forum asking for the value. O dont know much about clock so i promised for him to ask a professional clockmaker

I don't think for one minute this is a French movement. Hands are not fitted the way I would expect with a nice hand collet and pin. It looks like a modern nut. Platform escapement looks modern and not very good the colour is also two modern. What gives it away is the back plate. Oil sinks very shallow almost none existent. The righting is inconsistent and that arrow for the hands is so wrong it's not nice and its far too big. The screws are modern and incompatible. Is it from ebay?

If you have tried various balances without luck have you considered the remaining train wheels, mainspring barrel etc ? If the train is free running then that eliminates one thing, if under mainspring tension the pallets move with gentle push of peg wood then this eliminates pallet staff or other issue. Always start from one end and work to the other eliminating each until all is working correctly, like so > Mainspring > Drive Train > Pallets > Balance If there is a fault with the preceding parts of the movement then no balance you use will work. If the issue is with the balance wheel area then you must eliminate all the possibilities that remain, such as > Jewels 1) Are jewels clean and undamaged - No pivot wear/debris/dry oils etc 2) Are the jewel seats/fixed jewels damaged or blocked ? 3) Are jewel blocks at correct Height or have then been knocked out of position ? ( if applicable ) 4) Are shock Springs correctly installed and correct orientation ? Balance Wheel 1) Is hairspring flat and concentric ? Is there kink or sticking of springs/magnetism ? 2) Is the staff true, or bent pivot ? 3) Dry oil stuck to pivot tips ? 4) Is the rim true or bent ( you can check this by removing hairspring and placing back in mainplate with cock ) 5) Is the roller damaged/fitted correctly ? 6) Is the balance cock jewels correctly fitted or are they out of position ? 7) Is the roller table catching the lower shock area preventing motion ? 8) Is balance hack ( if applicable ) correctly positioned or blocking ? Cock/Bridge 1) Is the cock/Balance bridge true or is it bent ? ( fitting the balance to main plate if no motion, raise cock with tweezer gently, if motion presents itself, then cock may be untrue ) I don't want to come across as telling you how to suck eggs but i face similar issues week in week out and i have to go Sherlock Holmes on the movements i service ( elimination ) and finding the answer is always a case of elimination. There is always a cause or causes, you just have to find which one or many there are until you can solve it. MrBeat * As a side note ive often found with seikos that dont want to chooch the pallets/escape wheels are defective

Ouch, as you say, lesson learned, it gets easier over time.

I have the same vise, pictured here with the world's most annoying copper jaw shoes. Rev. #2 will have clips on the side that fold over the back of the jaw. The vise screw binds a little when closing, but not enough to complain to Cousins about. Besides the normal bench mount, I also made up a holder for it out of a huge chunk of steel. It probably weighs 5kg or so, with cork stick on-pads as feet. That weight is just nice to keep the vise from slipping on the table, while it can still easily be rotated and moved. I have a slightly bigger vise for hacksawing etc. The weird T-slot construction was due lack of a proper T-slot cutter.. It wasn't a very fun project, since I bought the wrong type of steel chunk off-cut, with too high a carbon content (compared to mild steel). I think one end was plasma-cut, which left a super hard surface that destroyed a few HSS endmills before I realized what was going on.. A smarter person would have picked the non-hardened side to mill a slot in.

Very 70s!

Here's the oils I'd use from my supply of greases and oils: Mainspring - 8200 Barrel Arbor - Jismaa "Green" Train Wheels - 9010 Pin and Lever - 9010 Balance Pivots - 9010 Motion and Keyless Work - 9501 and D5 Canon Pinion - 9501 But all the oils you use will be FAR superior to anything they had back when this was made. So use what you have that is as close to the list above as possible and see how it runs.

I think this thread has run it's course