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Hello jeff, Wow thank you for the compliment, but I am not related to Mark..and certainly am not a master watchmaker! On the topic of this interesting movement. Once the movement is taken apart and cleaned, the assembly isn't too bad with the exception of the gear train bridge. I don't know about the 9157, but the 9154 has those little tiny wire guides: If you place a brass tweezer so that both wires are pinched in between, it is possible to then close onto that little post in between while still holding the wires right where they should. You can then lift the plate, turn it over (the hard part) and place it onto the gears. If this proves too challenging, I also have placed the bridge onto the gears, and then fiddled with the wires from underneath with a pair of tweezers and a fine-tip oiler. It's a hassle but those wires provide tension to the center wheel and the 3rd wheel. The other thing is the balance has to be poised properly to hit the pallet--ok no surprise there, right? The problem is if you place the balance on the movement without making sure its centered to make contact with the pallet. If you go ahead and place the transistor board back as well as the hack lever/battery contact, you then will have to remove all of those things if the balance is off-sync with the pallet and doesn't start up--whioch has happened to me. And finally, when the stem is pulled out, the hack on the 9154 also serves to set up the balance for the power stroke. In other words, the engagment of the stem causes the release of the hack at the peak of the balance's arc, and so when released the impulse jewel on the balance quickly swings toward the pallet and over the copper coils setting up its momentum to continue beating. The hack should be engaged when the battery is installed so that when the stem is pushed back in, the movement can be tested.

Im into marine fish and i was very much into playing lead guitar in a band but that sort of got put to obe side after i had a stroke just after xmas and lost alot of function in my right hand and you cant pick with a dodgy hand so i went back to watch repair which i did years ago with my gramps the guitar will come but till then I'm happy with my watches and fish. Is drinking vodka classed as a hobby because I do that too

" inner tension ring". I have bought a few wristwatches where the tension ring has been cut. my guess is this is done so as to use "after market crystals" (older domed plastic). I use a multi - claw tool to install these types, any comment? vinn

Cheapo pharmacy reading spectacles, strength 3, one lense removed (I'm left master) and the Frame is now a track for either a 2.5, 5 or 10 loupe. This is the one I use the most on all general work.

Your Longcase clock dates from around 1800 and it has a 5 pillar movement which takes it out of the bog standard class. I have gone through the article on the other place and I particularly like the way you did the invisible bushing it was very professional, however it is not good to add marks, The way you repaired the rack tail was extremely well done, it can be fiddly as you have to get the angle correct in order to get the strike count right. Even though you fixed the calendar your fixing is incorrect, that is not how the original would have looked. You have done a very fine job. Congratulations.

This is my Avia And my Tissot electronic.

A friend of mine stopped by today with a problem with his watch. It was a brand new Seiko aviators watch. A smart looking watch with an E6b calculator on the Bezel. He'd picked it up in Asia. It was "keeping random time" as he complained. On to the vibragraph and it had an amplitude of 140 and a beat error of 1.8. Nasty for a new watch, but the amazing thing was, it was actually still running within 60 sec per day. Off with the back and straight away I could see that the spring curb pins had rotated nearly 90 degrees and the Hair spring was looking very distorted! The curb pins on this movement appear a cheap looking brass attachment fitted into a fork type arrangement on the regulator arm. After a bit if manipulation, I figured that it was history, as the curb pins kept snapping back to the 90deg position. Perhaps a manufacturer error or a botched assembly. Shame as Seiko really are usually a good product. Everything looked fairly familiar to the earlier movements. So after a rummage in the junk parts box I came up with a 7S26 assembly, balance cock and all. The curb pins on this are the typical riveted in kind. A good clean up and the appropriate tiny dot of oil on the end stone and it fitted straight in. Watch is now clattering away with excellent numbers, just like a brand new one... So what's the rub on the changes to the regular arm? Cheaper? Better?

Genealogy is one of mine. I have traced one side of the family back to 1624. I also collect old postcards of the village I was born in and old postcards of Lighthouses in the UK as my grandfather was a priceable lighthouse keeper (in charge), one of which he served on the famous Eddystone lighthouse. I also collect stamps but I don't bother to much these days. Other main interest my two cats called cookie and crumble.

Check table presented in this link: http://www.gesswein.com/p-9646-dialux-polishing-compounds.aspx

I quite often attend the local auction houses near where I live, and at the sale this week was quite a few lots from a retired watchmakers workshop, so I went along to the auction the day before to see what was on offer, There where plenty of watches for sale in mixed bags, all of uncollected watch repairs, One lot caught my eye it was a bag which contained a 1973 Hamilton G10 military watch, there was nothing else of note in the bag of around 20 watches so I noted the Lot number and looked at everything else on offer. One lot describe as a Omega watch was a bit of a dog it was a record military watch which had a Omega Geneve dial replacing the original Record, It is a shame because with the original dial and hands it would have been quite a nice watch to have but as it stood it was neither a Omega or a original Record so not worth a great deal IMHO, I noted the lot number out of interest as I would be attending the sale. Other lots included a Kendrick and Davis staking set which I wanted, A Favorite jeweling set which I also wanted , A few mixed Boxes of tools and spare parts some of which I wanted and a couple of lathes. The lathes on offer where a Coronet Diamond lathe from the 1940's and a IME lathe with around a dozen collets but no draw bar on inspection I could not get the pulleys to turn and with no obvious lock, I think it must have been seized. The coronet was in good condition and turned freely and had no play in the bearings and came with a motor I noted the lot numbers and resolved to return the next day for the auction. The auction started at 12:00 o'clock Having attended the auction quite a few times the first lot I wanted was lot 196 at roughly 150 lots a hour I thought I would get there about 1 o'clock and have a short wait for the first lot I wanted. Sadly the auctioneer was working faster than usual and I got there at lot 209. I did get there in time to see the franken Omega/record watch come up it went to a telephone bidder for what i thought was a staggering price of £245.00 before commission. So I waited a hour for my next lots to come up, I got the staking set for £40.00 and the Jeweling set for £40.00 which I was very happy with. The Lathes came up next, I have wanted a lathe for quite sometime but only want one to practice and experiment with at the moment so I thought if I can get the coronet cheap I will give it a go. The bidding started at £10.00 so I thought not much interest I will bid, I got the lathe for £40.00 too, the IME went for £90.00. The next lot I wanted was a box of tool's, on the viewing day I had looked through it contained quite a few small boxed tools, such as a pinion puller roller remover and Bergeon crystal lifter a couple of vices taps and dies, and various other useful tools, so I got that for £60.00. The thing with auctions and boxed lots is you have to be careful because when I collected the box at the end of the auction half of what I had seen in the box the day before was missing, I suspect because there where a number of open boxes someone had taken all the useful tools and placed them into a different box at the viewing to make up one very good box to bid on, ideally with boxed lots you need to view just before the auction starts.The only saving feature of the box I now had is that it contained some Georgian Guinea weights and I should be able to recoup the money for the box just from those. The Coronet lathe I now own came with one solitary collet and a motor, I have bought this just to experiment with and don't intend to throw money at it, I would just like to get used to using a lathe, so I will get the electrician at work to rewire and PAT test the motor although it does work the wire has been wrapped with insulation tape. I do though have a couple of questions that someone I'm sure could answer, What oil should I use for the bearings on the head stock ?. I also intend to buy a few individual collets to get me started, the one that came with the lathe is 35.8 mm long 7.94 mm wide and is stamped on the top with two back to back c's the collet is also stamped 2807, which type of 8 mm collet is this and which ones do I need to look out for to fit this lathe. Wayne

Definitely NOT Quartz. This has a jeweled balance wheel with a magnetized plate within the balance wheel itself. With juice from the battery, the balance wheel receives a magnetic impulse from the copper coils just below the balance wheel, and oscillates accordingly. There is no quartz pulsing involved. JC

Great project. Thanks for sharing. I just found a Seiko 6139 and I am about to begin refurbishing it. This was very informative.

With old-style cap jewels, I find the main thing to watch out for, and the main reason i've caused damage to older watches as I've learned, is slipping while loosening the hairspring stud screw and stabbing the hairspring in the heart... ...on the plus side, you get to re-shape the hairspring then, and that's character-building.