today I was working on a watch (the movement was eb8810) and after I was happy with the result I put the movement under a. glass, come back to it 2-3 hours later, still ticking so I put it back in the watch case and after about 15 seconds it stoped ticking as I started to move it around I don't know where to go from here wether or not it needs re-oiling or a new part in the balance operation, this is not the first watch I have experienced this in and didn't end up doing anything with the other watch.
thanks in advance,
p.s I am looking for an eb8800 movement in working condition so message me if you have one
I have recently bought and serviced this lovely 100 year old 'Spikins from Dent' pocket watch. The movement seems higher quality than some watches of this era that I've serviced, having 15 jewels, and being warranted English. It is housed in a solid silver Dennison Watch Case Co. case and has a 1918 Birmingham hallmark.
Given the above info and the attached photos, would anybody be able to identify and tell me whether this is any particular brand of movement? I notice an S in a five-pointed star on the train bridge - is this a trade mark on a movement?
I recently acquired a very busted up AR1798 with all the hands unseated. Initially I assumed that the repair would be as simple as popping off the back of the case, flipping the dial out and reseating the hands. However, much to my dismay it appears that the dial is slightly larger than the opening and cannot be pulled out the back of the watch. I then looked towards the bezel and hoped that popping that off would grant me access to the front of the dial but alas that too proved futile. Though the bezel did indeed come off, there still appears to be no way of prying off the front of the watch - looks like the bezel was just glued on for decoration...
Any ideas before I throw this into a draw and forget about it?
Watch back w movement removed
Profile of watch with bezel attached
Profile of watch with bezel removed (There's no seam to use to pry off the front, lighting makes it looks like there is)
Hello.I have been working on a vintage movement. It is German movement, PUW 1561.
It is automatic and has date with quickset function by pulling and pushing back the crown.
Before I disassembled it, the quickset did not work instead the date changed as hands passed 00:00.
However, as I am trying to put the watch back, the date won't change either by quickset or just manually.
The date disk won't move no matter how long I move the hands. I think I have assembled the date function part wrong but I have no idea how the parts should fit it.
I read a post about servicing this same movement but it did not work for me. (http://watchguy.co.uk/service-arowe-puw-1561/)
Could anyone help me how to put the date parts back in?? I attached a photo of the movement I am working on.
Good (insert time here) everyone!
I am relatively new to the world of clockwork repair and maintenence, but have done delicate metalwork, mechanism cleaning, and enjoy fixing things. Just recently, my sister brought home her boyfriends late great grandmothers singing bird in cage automata. For those of you who dont completely know or understand what it is, its basically a spring driven mechanism using bellows and a variable organ pipe to make bird sounds and move a little birdie around and "sing" (Example of singing bird mechanism working).
His aunt wants it to be operational again, and after opening it up (not yet taking much apart) I have come to the conclusion that it could just use a good cleaning and oiling. But, my question is, what kind of oil should I use and how should I apply it? I don't have any fancy oils except for a bottle of valve oil for my trumpet at my current disposal, but I would like to buy some decent clockwork oil for this project and a sankyo music box repair I have waiting.
Note: come to find out while writing this, it was made by eschle reuge I'm Germany, probably around the 50's or 40's.
Here is the file rest that I made for a special job. I was going to make the rollers from O-1 and harden them but decided to go with standard bronze flange bearings. These are readily replaceable if i ever wear them down.
Leinen also supplied those micrometer tailstocks on the Henry Paulson lathes that they made. The scale is in mm. To use it, I set the micrometer to zero, insert the required drill in the tailstock (held by drill chuck or collet), slide the drill tip against the surface of the metal to be drilled, slide the stop ring up to the back side of the micrometer and tighten the set screw. This stops the slide movement at the "zero" thereby setting the surface of the metal to be drilled. Next I turn the micrometer to the desired depth of the hole to be drilled. From now on, I can drill as many holes as I want at the desired depth. Picture is of my Paulson lathe.
I really do not make nor repair watches. I design, manufacture, and repair apparatus for magicians around the world. Many of the tools and machines that I use would be very familiar to you watch and clock folks. Recently I was working on a design that required an intermittent action driven by a very shallow "crown gear". Here are a few pics. To make these gears I punched out brass discs, added the center hole, raised the rim on a die set I machined, and cut the teeth on my Chronos wheel engine. I have tons of additional projects involving watch and clock scale techniques and tooling/machines - if anyone isinterested.