Jump to content

Movement holder - motion work up

PeterS

By PeterS
in Tools & Equipment

 Share

Recommended Posts

PeterS WRT Addict

PeterS

Posted
Posted

What’s the best way to clamp a movement when the motion work side is up?
I have the Bergeon 4040 and being a beginner I nearly clamped the escape wheel. I managed to mark one of the bridges (no big deal, I’m learning on the Unitas 6497).

I am turning the movement round and round and don’t seem to be able to find a position I’m happy with.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Tudor Distinguished Member

Tudor

Posted
Posted

Yeah, this is why I spend the money for dedicated movement holders.

 

In a pinch, the generic ones are OK (and also useful for other tasks) but since getting dedicated holders I wonder why I struggled (and damaged movements) prior.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
PeterS WRT Addict

PeterS

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I see, I’m not the only one.
This one will have to do for now. I’m working on the cheap Unitas clone and I guess the next step will be cheap watches/movements from Ebay for learning purposes.
From what I read the answer is ‘do as best as you can’

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
Chopin Super WRT Addict

Chopin

Posted
Posted

I only have the simple standard all around metallic ones (one for larger one for smaller mvts) and to be honest sometimes I just have to be extra-careful.

Sometimes I won't get too good a grip, sometimes the stem hole will sit in a weird position prohibiting some crown work...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Neverenoughwatches
      Case back seals

      By Neverenoughwatches · Posted

      With something like this a gasket seal for instance if i cant find the relevant information i would use instinct to decide what fits and works best. You have the original gasket ( well maybe its original or hopefully it is )so its fairly easy to determine what material to use. Shape , for that i would look at the gasket seatings, are there grooves or recesses in either the case back or case or both, what shape are the grooves, flat or round etc, how does the gasket sit and behave in those seatings. Next thickness,that is going to be a bit of a guess, especially if the gasket is a soft one that has been heavily compressed over time. This is where a selection is going to come in handy, personally i would be choosing one that is giving me the feel of compression as its coming into contact with both of the mating surfaces. But not so much that the gasket is going to squash out and become distorted, again this is guesswork and feel is required with the allowance of compression over time, something you may want to check after six months. This part is a little moot as without a pressure test, good water resistance is not assured so the watch needs to treated as such and not as if it were a new diving watch ( not that i would treat any new diving watch as if were ). What you want to expect from your efforts is a little accidental rain catch, if you want more water resistance guarantee then a professional gasket replacement and pressure test is what you should be seeking which will be more than the value of this watch. Coincidentally i have the same watch, been searching for a stem for it for a while now. 
    • JohnR725
      Omega Constellation 1001 project

      By JohnR725 · Posted

      It might not be a hook it might be something like this. But still the mainspring is catching on something on the slip ring because it doesn't have its own outer slipping part like the modern ones. The image below came from some vintage Omega thing I'll have to see if I can find where that has gone to.documentation A different book has this          
    • ManSkirtBrew
      Omega Constellation 1001 project

      By ManSkirtBrew · Posted

      I did not see a hook on the slip ring. I will check again tomorrow.
    • JohnR725
      Omega Constellation 1001 project

      By JohnR725 · Posted

      I think I'm having a confusion here? You would apply the breaking grease to the inside of the barrel then the slip ring would go inside. Then the mainspring goes in and it catches on the hook on the slip ring.
    • ManSkirtBrew
      Omega Constellation 1001 project

      By ManSkirtBrew · Posted

      Thank you for the once again very thorough and informative reply. I'm sure at this point it's academic, but I'm always curious to know best practices. This then implies that If I'm planning to reuse the old mainspring (which I am), I should also reinstall the slip ring. I will do that and apply braking grease to the inside of the slip ring as if it were the barrel. This makes the most sense to me. Also, that bit about the center cannon pinion is very helpful. That wasn't in the tech sheet I have (attached) dated 1970. Omega 1001(1).pdf
×
×
  • Create New...