Jump to content

How to remove case back on vintage Mido

mmarks9156
 Share

Recommended Posts

anilv Distinguished Member

anilv

Posted
Posted

There are openers which fit the flats on the back..  It unscrews off. Google "mido caseback opener".

If you have a small adjustable wrench that can work but you may need to file the ends flat. 

Anilv

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
Chopin Super WRT Addict

Chopin

Posted
Posted

Try a rubber ball used for case backs or anilv's suggestion but be careful not to scratch the case.

Another solution is gluing something onto the case back such as a screw driver and then rotating the case back out. The glue can be easily cleaned afterwards. Just don't use too much so that it'll drip around.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
oldhippy Distinguished Member

oldhippy

Posted
Posted (edited)

It is a screw back. This is the type of tool you need. It is universal, unscrews many types and comes with fittings for what you need.

https://www.esslinger.com/universal-watch-back-opener-waterproof-watch-wrench-with-pins-jaxa-style/

There are many cheap made in china ones about that are poor, I would avoid those.  

This is the type I had. Two handed type. I don't think they make this type anymore

 

image.jpeg.638251bd6cc366b8ae7c74bc471183fa.jpeg

Edited by oldhippy
Link to comment
Share on other sites
jdm Distinguished Member

jdm

Posted
Posted
2 hours ago, oldhippy said:

There are many cheap made in china ones about that are poor, I would avoid those.
This is the type I had. Two handed type. I don't think they make this type anymore

 

Yes they do https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/double-handed-up-to-060mm?code=C35303

BTW the Chinese single handle one are normally fine. The reason why sometime one can't open a tight caseback with it is because the watch is not hold firmly, and/or not enough vertical pressure from the top.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
jdm Distinguished Member

jdm

Posted
Posted
3 hours ago, Chopin said:

Another solution is gluing something onto the case back such as a screw driver and then rotating the case back out.

I recommend against that, which can be expeditious in extreme situations, but it's not a best practice. There are case opener tools for any budget, just invest in one of these.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
rodabod Distinguished Member

rodabod

Posted
Posted

It's important that Jaxa-type openers have minimal play. I've owned Indian/Chinese ones which were crap. Eventually got a Swiss two handle version which is very good.

For extremely seized case backs, I use either a large nut glued on with superglue, or if it's more extreme, I use a brass bar (to form a handle) which I adhere with two-part epoxy.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
jdm Distinguished Member

jdm

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, rodabod said:

For extremely seized case backs, I use either a large nut glued on with superglue, or if it's more extreme, I use a brass bar (to form a handle) which I adhere with two-part epoxy.

I use instead a classic type bench opener and it hasn't ever failed me. Nothing messy to deal with and nothing to clean after. Changing attachment it can also open Rolex, Breitling and other proprietary case backs. Related thread:

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites
mmarks9156 Member

mmarks9156

Posted
  • Author
Posted
I use instead a classic type bench opener and it hasn't ever failed me. Nothing messy to deal with and nothing to clean after. Changing attachment it can also open Rolex, Breitling and other proprietary case backs. Related thread:
 
Thank you I'll give this a try

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites
mmarks9156 Member

mmarks9156

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Yes they do https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/double-handed-up-to-060mm?code=C35303
BTW the Chinese single handle one are normally fine. The reason why sometime one can't open a tight caseback with it is because the watch is not hold firmly, and/or not enough vertical pressure from the top.
I have the single handle one I'll give that a shot

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites
rodabod Distinguished Member

rodabod

Posted
Posted

I also have access to a bench top type, but you can in some instances end up with a case back that is so seized that the key slots start to crack due to the force applied. It's a particular problem with Dennison-made Smiths cases from the late 60's as the keys are shallow, and the steel is not especially strong.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • VWatchie
      Epilame / Fixodrop

      By VWatchie · Posted

      Maybe it's just a coincidence, but note how the epilame-treated surface is illustrated in @Waggy's post. It looks like the oil is exposed to a binder (epilame!) so that it can't move sideways.
    • Neverenoughwatches
      Epilame / Fixodrop

      By Neverenoughwatches · Posted

      The epilame under the oil will also be removed  Unless the oil makes a barrier between the epilame and the escape teeth 😅 I think i need two strong coffees now 🤣
    • VWatchie
      Epilame / Fixodrop

      By VWatchie · Posted

      If we use the rub-off epilame method of pallet stones (run dry for a few minutes before applying the epilame) where will the oil go/be transported when it is pushed away from the impulse surface by the escape wheel teeth? Onto the epilame-treated sections of the pallet! Once the oil has been applied/transported to the epilame-treated sections of the pallet where will it then go? Nowhere as the oil will remain on the epilame. So, perhaps the run-dry method defeats its intended purpose leaving the pallet impulse surfaces dry!? If, on the other hand, we do not remove the epilame from the pallet stones where the escape wheel teeth come in contact with them I'd expect more oil to remain where we want it and need it. Yes, I agree, that is the question, and my gut feeling tells me that is exactly the case. Epilame was created to have an adhesive trait and the oleophobic property is just a side effect.  
    • Neverenoughwatches
      Epilame / Fixodrop

      By Neverenoughwatches · Posted

      Might that be the viscous nature of oil resisting gravity H  ,  we have been comparing water and hydrophobic surfaces which are similar in principle but water is much less viscous than oil. I guess what we trying to discover is if epilame also has an adhesive trait as well as being oleophobic. Plus the oil dropet has very little mass for gravity to work on, like watching tiny water beads that can grip onto vertical glass until they are connected together to increase their mass then run down. Gravity isn't the only factor at play when oil is placed on pallet stones. The oil receives a lot of bashing that may push it out of position ? Thinking about it if the oil stays in position for 10 minutes enough time for the escape wheel to scrape off the epilame , then  a walled in lubrication has been achieved,  the epilame is no longer beneath the oil ( possibly mixed into the oil )
    • VWatchie
      Epilame / Fixodrop

      By VWatchie · Posted

      But it also makes it seem less susceptible to gravity. If you place a droplet of oil on an epilame-treated surface the droplet of oil will still stay in place even if you then flip the surface from a horizontal to a vertical position. That is, the oil droplet remains anchored, and that's the purpose of epilame. If it was just a matter of creating an oleophobic surface we could probably use other, less expensive, methods!? I don't know @Waggy but my gut feeling tells me you're spot on (pun intended!). I believe the oleophobic property is a side effect of epilame which is designed to keep the oil anchored.
×
×
  • Create New...