Jump to content

How to remove case back on vintage Mido


Recommended Posts

There are openers which fit the flats on the back..  It unscrews off. Google "mido caseback opener".

If you have a small adjustable wrench that can work but you may need to file the ends flat. 

Anilv

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Try a rubber ball used for case backs or anilv's suggestion but be careful not to scratch the case.

Another solution is gluing something onto the case back such as a screw driver and then rotating the case back out. The glue can be easily cleaned afterwards. Just don't use too much so that it'll drip around.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It is a screw back. This is the type of tool you need. It is universal, unscrews many types and comes with fittings for what you need.

https://www.esslinger.com/universal-watch-back-opener-waterproof-watch-wrench-with-pins-jaxa-style/

There are many cheap made in china ones about that are poor, I would avoid those.  

This is the type I had. Two handed type. I don't think they make this type anymore

 

image.jpeg.638251bd6cc366b8ae7c74bc471183fa.jpeg

Edited by oldhippy
Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, oldhippy said:

There are many cheap made in china ones about that are poor, I would avoid those.
This is the type I had. Two handed type. I don't think they make this type anymore

 

Yes they do https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/double-handed-up-to-060mm?code=C35303

BTW the Chinese single handle one are normally fine. The reason why sometime one can't open a tight caseback with it is because the watch is not hold firmly, and/or not enough vertical pressure from the top.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, Chopin said:

Another solution is gluing something onto the case back such as a screw driver and then rotating the case back out.

I recommend against that, which can be expeditious in extreme situations, but it's not a best practice. There are case opener tools for any budget, just invest in one of these.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It's important that Jaxa-type openers have minimal play. I've owned Indian/Chinese ones which were crap. Eventually got a Swiss two handle version which is very good.

For extremely seized case backs, I use either a large nut glued on with superglue, or if it's more extreme, I use a brass bar (to form a handle) which I adhere with two-part epoxy.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, rodabod said:

For extremely seized case backs, I use either a large nut glued on with superglue, or if it's more extreme, I use a brass bar (to form a handle) which I adhere with two-part epoxy.

I use instead a classic type bench opener and it hasn't ever failed me. Nothing messy to deal with and nothing to clean after. Changing attachment it can also open Rolex, Breitling and other proprietary case backs. Related thread:

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I use instead a classic type bench opener and it hasn't ever failed me. Nothing messy to deal with and nothing to clean after. Changing attachment it can also open Rolex, Breitling and other proprietary case backs. Related thread:
 
Thank you I'll give this a try

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes they do https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/double-handed-up-to-060mm?code=C35303
BTW the Chinese single handle one are normally fine. The reason why sometime one can't open a tight caseback with it is because the watch is not hold firmly, and/or not enough vertical pressure from the top.
I have the single handle one I'll give that a shot

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I also have access to a bench top type, but you can in some instances end up with a case back that is so seized that the key slots start to crack due to the force applied. It's a particular problem with Dennison-made Smiths cases from the late 60's as the keys are shallow, and the steel is not especially strong.

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Sure! Some very accomplished repairers never use epilame! I have often wondered if it is worth the trouble. Not using epilame will shorten the service intervals though, but that could be better perhaps both for the owner and the repairer!? Speaking of oiling, I just read this: After WWII in the 1950s the first Synthetic Oils came on the market. Most watchmakers did not rush to use these oils since they were bad for business now that the watch serviced with Synthetic oil would not come back to him for service for another 5-7 years he would lose a lot of income. ~Ofrei.com  
    • I read that same article last night  H.  I think epilame is too much headache for me, sources aren't always accurate, some conflicting. Such is the GRAVITY of this situation, Is it ok if i just STICK  to a thixotropic oil 🤣
    • Not sure I follow along. As I stated in one of my previous posts, the epilame will remain intact between rubbing parts as long as the surface is lubricated by oil or grease. Maybe it's just a coincidence, but note how the epilame-treated surface is illustrated in @Waggy's post. It looks like the oil is exposed to a binder (epilame!) so that it can't move sideways.
    • The epilame under the oil will also be removed  Unless the oil makes a barrier between the epilame and the escape teeth 😅 I think i need two strong coffees now 🤣
    • If we use the rub-off epilame method of pallet stones (run dry for a few minutes before applying the epilame) where will the oil go/be transported when it is pushed away from the impulse surface by the escape wheel teeth? Onto the epilame-treated sections of the pallet! Once the oil has been applied/transported to the epilame-treated sections of the pallet where will it then go? Nowhere as the oil will remain on the epilame. So, perhaps the run-dry method defeats its intended purpose leaving the pallet impulse surfaces dry!? If, on the other hand, we do not remove the epilame from the pallet stones where the escape wheel teeth come in contact with them I'd expect more oil to remain where we want it and need it. Yes, I agree, that is the question, and my gut feeling tells me that is exactly the case. Epilame was created to have an adhesive trait and the oleophobic property is just a side effect.  
×
×
  • Create New...