Jump to content

Seiko 7T32 6H39 Chrono Alarm


Recommended Posts

I have one that I'm working on it as well but just cosmetic stuff. It doesn't have a spring that is visible like a bell-matic, as far as I can see. If I remember correctly the alarm is actually a digital beeping...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 minutes ago, Chopin said:

If I remember correctly the alarm is actually a digital beeping...

Some quartz watches use a piezo piece which needs to contact the caseback via said small spring, that is normally lost when replacing battery.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This movement has what looks like two brass tabs that touch the Piezo on the the case back. Make sure these haven't been flattened or are contaminated with something. Also clean piezo on the case back. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Check out the following Image I took when I worked on that 7T32:

 

7T32_6A50_46.jpg?fit=800,600&ssl=1

 

The small golden (copper) fork in the center area, in the middle of the two coils, is what they are referring to. This is slightly bent upwards, so when the casebakc is fitted, it will make contack with the piezo-electric disc glued to it. You should be able to see the marks on the disc made by the "fork" on the outer diameter of the disc.

But honestly, I believe the issue is not mechanical (bad contact of the buzzer lead terminal - that's its name). I have hade a few 7t32 and 7t34s withe the same issue, and even if the alarm was working properly, I could only hear an extremely faint "bip" when engaged. This is probably due to the piezo-electric disc. Which btw is not so easy to replace.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Try a any case back from a another watch with a piezo. Hold against watch make sure there is contact and see if its any louder/works if not....

If it is the Piezo. I used a heat gun on the case back after cleaning old stuff off. Then put piezo Seiko 4589.801 (available from Cousins) on with tweezers glue side down and added some more heat and left it to cool. Refitted and all working. 

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On some quartz alarm watches there is a piezo piece attached to the inside of the case back. I changed one a while ago to fix this issue but to be honest after the fix I thought it pointless as the alarm sound was hardly audible. I think I purchased the piezo piece from eBay. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Right now I'm making do with a similar micrometer (the one below is $45 shipped but you can find better deals) and a $20 stand. You do have to be excruciatingly careful measuring jewels, since there's no table, but if you don't have the $500 to throw around, it's a nice option.
    • As  I kid, I'd watch Godzilla stomping over buildings and cars and I'd think to myself: Tokyo is a really dangerous place to live... . Cool watch!!
    • Next one up an AS 554, looks like a bit more to this one. First job is to check thickness, most springs are somewhere between .3 and .4, this one measures .35, that matches in with the .4 spring steel i ordered. So for marking up a permanent marker comes in handy to colour up the steel to be marked later with a scriber once its dry. Bestfit provide the extra bit of info for the jumper spring that is missing.
    • Thanks again, Marc.  Super helpful. I was wondering what the hole was for, and now it makes perfect sense. With your help and the other members here, it looks like I'm good to go with my Seitz tool set. I had to order some replacement pushers, but with those, the set is complete and in good condition. Now, I need to figure out what tool to buy to measure jewels (amongst other watch-related parts). I had my eye on the JKA Feintaster micrometers, but people get crazy bidding on them for $400-600 USD. I was thinking of just a regular digital micrometer (Mitutoyo). Thoughts?  Mahalo. Frank      
    • Yep, that's exactly how it should fit. The reamer shank is tapered and the socket in the spindle is also tapered so that the one centers in the other and is gripped tightly. If there is any wobble when the reamer is seated as far it will go then there is a problem. The cross hole in the spindle is to allow you the push the reamer back out again. If the reamer seated much deeper then it would limit the access for pushing it back out again. Here is one of mine for comparison.
×
×
  • Create New...