Jump to content

Recommended Posts

  • 1 month later...
Posted

I have started the course and am really enjoying it. Course one is based around disassembly and reassembly of a eta 2801-2. They had none in stock and suggested the eta 2750 as a substitute. That is what I am working on. I did full disassembly and reassembled the wheel side then while working on the keyless works I shot the set spring across the room. I am patiently waiting arrival of its replacement now. Frustrating but understandable as a beginner I guess. Worst problem so far is that the keyless work of the 2750 is much different then the 2801 in the course photos so I am having trouble there. Overall I would suggest this course to anyone looking to get started. I'm loving it and it's only $75.

  • Like 1
Posted

Nice little setup! I have the same bench! And don't worry, anyone who says they don't spend time on the floor looking for wayward parts is lying!

 

Have fun!

Don

Posted

Thats a nice set-up,  everything you need.  As to parts flying across the room I'm sure it's happened to everyone,  practice makes perfect,  as they say.  Watching Marks videos will give you some tips on control of small parts,  there is a lot to be learned by just watching an expert at work.

 

RogerC

Posted

Agreed. Marks videos are priceless learning tools. I was actually using one of his techniques of using peg wood to hold the spring down but it slipped and that was the end of it. I heard it hit the wall about 4 feet away then landed in a large fake plant. Not even a chance of finding it. Oh well... the new spring should be here an a day or two and I'll be back in business.

Posted

I was working on the Hamilton 923 this morning, (the one I posted pics of in another thread), and upon assembly- The spring that helps engage the clutch wheel in the keyless works, would not stay seated! I used my plastic peg wood to hold it down so that I could replace the key works retaining cover and "Fling!!!" There she goes! It's about the width of a human hair!

 

On the floor I went to look for it....put my hand down and...there it was! right under my thumb! I never saw it, just felt it!

 

These are the Victories that you savor!

 

Don

Posted

What a lucky break Don! I wish I would have been able to locate my spring that easily. I guess the long wait for the replacement will help instill the patients needed for this hobby/work. BTW where are you sorceing your cases? I love the look and want to get some for myself.

Posted

 BTW where are you sorceing your cases? I love the look and want to get some for myself.

 

I get Most of them from Asia (China), but the quality is hit or miss-even when ordering the same case from the same supplier. But, OFREI has some really nice 45mm cases for the ETA 6497/98 movements. I used their 42mm Swiss Made case to house one of my Hamilton movements but I had to machine our the case about 1mm so that it would fit (that was a pain!).

 

Also, do yourself a favor, go buy a large magnet to sweep for parts if (when) you do happen to loose one again. I may not have found every part that flew away, but I'll guarantee you that I've found more with it than I would have without it! Just don't store your magnet anywhere near you repair area...

 

Don

Posted (edited)

My first watch I disassembled a couple of months ago was an early 1970s Timex.  I had a part launch from the tweezer which then hit me on the head and bounced down my back inside my shirt.  I found it about a half hour later resting comfortably in my underwear!!!

 

On reassembly, the pallet forked launched and I found it quite easily.  A few minutes later it launched again and was lodged in the sole of my rubber-soled slipper.  In the process of trying desperately to straighten it, it launched a third time only this time I am convinced it is possible for watch parts to completely vaporize as I could not find it. Needless to say, I bought a parts watch to salvage parts from to compete the repair.

 

This has been a learning experience to be sure!  But I have learned to laugh at myself and view these as valuable experiences. On my current watch repair, a 1965 Elgin, I was able to do a tear down and reassembly without losing anything.  Amazing how prior experiences and Rodico can change the world. :thumbsu:   

Edited by 64americandeluxe
Posted

Something I always find useful when hunting for fliers on the carpet is a good bright LED torch, shone at a low angle across the top of the pile. The glint of light reflected off a polished surface will often stand out like a little beacon compared to direct illumination, and the whiter light from the LED seems to amplify the effect.

  • Like 1
Posted

Something I always find useful when hunting for fliers on the carpet is a good bright LED torch, shone at a low angle across the top of the pile. The glint of light reflected off a polished surface will often stand out like a little beacon compared to direct illumination, and the whiter light from the LED seems to amplify the effect.

 

+1 to that Marc. I use an LED torch and one of those telescopic magnets which are great for sliding under the workbench :D

 

Over the years you will find yourself on your knees less and less, but it is part of the job that nobody is immune to.

Posted

So the replacement spring arrived today and it was nowhere near the part it was supposed to be. I think they had the parts bin labeled wrong or something. Frustrated, I decided to basically disassemble the entire room and re-do my magnet search and IT WORKED! I found that tiny little guy. However after the search I am kind of "over it" for today and will have to resume assymbly of the 2750 at a later time.

Posted

+1 to that Marc. I use an LED torch and one of those telescopic magnets which are great for sliding under the workbench :D

 

Over the years you will find yourself on your knees less and less, but it is part of the job that nobody is immune to.

 

 

I use the knife wall magnet on a handle to search for missing bits, although I find I don't lose as much these days??

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

I've had a few issues with fliers and the occasional case of dropsy. I covered the floor with white floor covering and always vacuum clean it before I start working. It makes finding things so much easier.

Posted

The second course is worth the money as this is a strip down and rebuild (with oil service) of a common ETA 2836-2 movement.

I wouldn't bother with the 3rd course as this is how to regulate a movement with a Timegrapher and all the relevant information is on the internet.

Many people were disappointed that the 3rd watch school course didn't examine chronograph movements!!

Posted

I have started the course and am really enjoying it. Course one is based around disassembly and reassembly of a eta 2801-2. They had none in stock and suggested the eta 2750 as a substitute. That is what I am working on. I did full disassembly and reassembled the wheel side then while working on the keyless works I shot the set spring across the room. I am patiently waiting arrival of its replacement now. Frustrating but understandable as a beginner I guess. Worst problem so far is that the keyless work of the 2750 is much different then the 2801 in the course photos so I am having trouble there. Overall I would suggest this course to anyone looking to get started. I'm loving it and it's only $75.

I've been wanting to take this course, I am wondering though, since I already bought most of my equipment, is it required to buy their beginner tool set in order to take the course?  That is if I don't buy that set, since I already have bought most of the equipment in that set, can I still take the course?

Posted

Hi Alex. I was wondering the same thing as I had already purchased most of what I needed. When you purchase the course ($75) you will have full access to level 1. No need to buy their tools. However, if I could give some advice, I would suggest that you get the exact movement used in the course. They didn't have any when I started so I ended up with their suggested substitute. This was fine for the most part accept the keyless works are totally different. If you have previous expeirience this may not be an issue for you but I have had to supplement the course with Marc's vids just to make sense of it. It's a cool course that gives you the basic info to get started and really drive the passion for the hobby/profession depending on your goals. I really do recommend it but again having the right movement will make more sense. I'm sure as I move on to course 2 I will see a different keyless that will answer my questions from the first. Just need to find the time to do it!

Posted

For Level 2 - you can use an Asian 2836-2 clone, which is exactly the same as the Swiss one but cheaper (Also known as the HANGZHOU 6311)

  • 3 months later...
Posted

Hi Dwdrummer, I believe we are classmates! I'm taking all three courses. Basically, I'm done with #1 but I keep referring to it and I'm using #2 and #3 at the same time since I got the machine and everything else the first moment. My bench is just like yours! Happy watchmaking!

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • If he was much younger and some sort of sports player it wouldn't be a problem. They would be in there and doing surgery and he'd be back on the field in no time. Unfortunately when you get older little things are bad and big things can be really bad so not good at all.
    • Where I work everything incoming watches whatever detailed descriptions are taken entered into a computer program and photograph of each item. Then ideally although it depends on who's doing the paperwork detailed descriptions can be quite good other times there lacking. Like I really like it with pocket watches if they would record the serial number it avoids confusion later on. Then when watch repairs are completed that is also entered in. It's one of the amusements I learned when I was in school instructor had a shop and commented about the important aspect of keeping detailed records of repairs. Because oftentimes a customer who got a new crystal will come back later on when the watch doesn't work and expect you to fix the entire watch for free. Then you can remind them that they just got a crystal. Strangely enough that keeps coming up or occasionally comes up where I work now. One of the problems of using the service marks on the case is that in the case of pocket watches oftentimes that's not the original case. Then case marks? What I was doing warranty work for a company I used to describe a code number in the back of the case and it would tell me the next time I see the watch that basically what I did I made no attempt at keeping track of customers because we had literally thousands of them I think they sold 30,000 of these watches and they would come back by the hundreds because they had a lifetime warranty. Yes that's a story all of itself but I would put a code number that would reference what was done to the watch the last time and think I had a date in there somehow so it did tell a story if you knew the code. Another shop I once worked out the number would reference the page in the book. So other than knowing we had been in there you would have no idea what happened because you have to go look at the page in the book to see what happened. Then the problem of how you examine a watch you should examine the watch in detail every single time to avoid complications. Although on vintage watches and this is a of amusement I have at work when people ask something and I say of the watches done when it leaves. This is because on vintage oftentimes problems won't show up until the watches much farther into the repair like it's now running and you discover things that you can't discover before because it wasn't running to discover them that also become sometimes difficult to have exact rigid prices are estimates of repairs or in the case of a pocket watch you may not find out if a casing problem to later on when you case it up in the watches running. I was just thinking for all those people that would like to leave a mark maybe you should learn to do what some of the past watchmakers did? Leave a mark but leave it in such a way that no one will ever find it? Typically not done for repair purposes but done for other reasons like identifying it's legit. I have a friend with a Gruen watch and one of the Roman numbers the bottom line that just looks like a line under extreme magnification actually says Gruen watch company or something equivalent. So here's a link showing how to mark your watch without being seen although that's not the actual title. So if you can learn micro engraving you can engrave the watch someplace probably just about any place you just have to remember where you put it. https://cnaluxury.channelnewsasia.com/obsessions/how-to-prove-if-watches-are-authentic-secret-signatures-182516  
    • I have acquired a Citizen Leopard 36000 watch. My reason for purchasing it was my desire to own a timepiece with a 36,000 BPH movement, and the price was reasonable. Another motivating factor was gaining hands-on experience with the mechanism. The watch is in good condition, but I intend to fully disassemble it for maintenance. First and foremost, if anyone has prior experience with this particular model, I would greatly appreciate their insights. I do not have access to Citizen’s specialized lubricants and will need to use the ones available to me, such as 9010, 8000, and 8300 grease. Additionally, I do not possess the appropriate oil for the pallet jewels and will only be able to clean them.
    • Hello all, I am working on an older Valjoux Chrono. It doesn't have a stamp on the movement anywhere but I believe it is a Valjoux 72. I installed the train of wheels and they will not turn. The problem appears to be the 4th wheel and the escape wheel are not interfacing correctly. I had to replace both of these parts as the pivots were broken on each. I sourced genuine Valjoux/ETA replacements. I think the problem is with the escape wheel as all the wheels turn perfectly if I remove just the escape wheel.  My question to those with more Valjoux experience is am I mistaken? Is this some other model altogether and I have the wrong part or parts?    
    • I would remove the wheels, check for damage and if not damaged, clean. 
×
×
  • Create New...