Jump to content

lathe file rest


dwhite

Recommended Posts

Does anyone know how to make a lathe file rest or where to get one super cheap?  I was thinking of cutting down a graver sharpener jig, the kind with the roller, and affixing aluminum bar stock of the correct diameter to make one.  I picked aluminum because the jig is aluminum.  What do you think?  I have two lathes and the tool rest holders take 6mm on one and 7mm on the other and haven't been able to find a rest with the correct post diameter.  Thanks in advance!  Dan.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

If you don’t have a lathe, why do you want a file rest? You should go to a machinist shop and buy one readymade. Here is a photo of a simple rest it might give you a pit of help on what you can design using simple tools. If you want to practise filing, correctly get hold of some scrap metal and a bench vice and file and practise on that. There is a right way and many wrong ways when it comes to filing flat.

22.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This one looks decent:

400778.jpg

http://www.model-engineer.co.uk/forums/postings.asp?th=78631

That just requires rod, a section of gauge plate, screws, delrin, and a tap and die set.

You could make the retaining rod the same diameter as our tail stock (eg. 8mm) to fit in there, and then replace the delrin tubes according to what height you want to work to.

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, oldhippy said:

If you don’t have a lathe, why do you want a file rest?

 

21 hours ago, dwhite said:

I have two lathes and the tool rest holders take 6mm on one and 7mm on the other and haven't been able to find a rest with the correct post diameter.

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

oldhippie and rodabod, both of those designs look great.  I'll have to search for some suitable rollers, not sure where you could find something like that but I haven't started looking yet.  I could easily build that out of brass and silver solder it together.  A jewelers saw ought to cut the frame.  Thanks jdm for the reminder that I have two lathes.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

They're both 10mm as you know.  The threads are the same pitch/form/OD, but not the same length along the body (pultra is longer).  Pultra (mostly) does fit Levin.  Levin doesn't fit Pultra - the longer thread section I suspect would be an issue but the slot for the pin is wider on the Pultra collet so the Levin collect couldn't inserted.  The Pultra collet is slight proud of the spindle nose when installed in the Levin - the large diameter is a little more than the Levin (meaning it fits but sticks out slightly, why I said mostly).  The tapers visually look the same but before buying I'd try and find some documentation confirming the angle.   Hope that helps

Edited by measuretwice
  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think the Pultra collets were made by Conflex. As far as the 8mm ones are concerned, I found they are compatible with Wolf Jahn, Lorch and what I generally refer to as WW collets (although I guess that American collets probably vary amongst brands). 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 6 months later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Now I'm completely confused, it would appear that the epilame  is oleophobic  as @Marc states: This oleophobic  behavior can be seen as beading of the droplet (as above) which stops the oil spreading which is supported by what we observe on treated/untreated cap stones (for example), but as @VWatchie states this should make the drops more mobile, and not less mobile which is the opposite of what we want. In fact this beading and high mobility are desirable properties in things like smart phone covers, see below.  I am fairly sure that epilame doesn't make the droplets more mobile, so maybe its a strange coating with dual properties that are both oleophobic and cohesive/adhesive resulting in low mobility?? This may explain the high price??  
    • The description there is exactly how it's done, and it's very well written!
    • Would it be correct to say that the stronger the mainspring, the thicker the oil should be? So for a fusee mainspring, should a thick grease be used?
    • I started on pocket watches as they are easier to work on than wristwatches. Many had gold cases, which is why there are so many movements for sale. I was always on the look out for cases, for as Nickelsilver says,  a 16s movement will fit any 16s case* (with tweaks to the stem). I also started hand winding mainsprings, before I had winders. It can be done without damage, but it's quite hard on the fingers.  But you can make homemade winders, see here      * some movements, eg "railroad grade", have a setting lever on the edge of the  dial at about the 1 -2 o'clock, so need a special case.
    • Ok, on your movement plate you can see a star wheel on the right, this is the silencer, if you rotate the hands by hand through each hour you will see that eventually it acts upon the cam which moves the lever and in turn lifts the lifting lever thus stopping the chimes and strike working.  What you need to do is get your clock to 11pm and also turn the star until the cam lifts the lever and stops the action. The star wheel has a small spring that gives it a positive action between each movement, so once at 11pm you can rotate the star wheel around by hand until it stops the action at 11pm. Hope this makes sense to you.
×
×
  • Create New...