Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi

I have a French movement to repair. It is much like the one in the attached video but I am just wondering if anyone has any advice. It was fully wound when I received it but it doesn't work. I'm thinking it is probably dirty and may simply need cleaning.

All advice is welcome. (Someone told me I should reassemble it and give it back...)

Thank you

Dave

 

Posted

I have worked with a lot of these movements and most have just needed cleaning & pivots polishing and the occasional re-bushing. Is it a strike movement (Two barrels) or without. 

Posted

Hi everyone

It is a strike movement. It looks like it's pretty straight forward and I really think it only needs to be cleaned and oiled.

I would like to know if there are any pitfalls re dismantling the thing I should know about beforehand.

A quick overall inspection didn't show anything broken or even out of place. I'm sure it's never been cleaned - ever - so that is more than likely its main problem.

No one in the family can ever remember it running. Whatever that means...

Thank you for all your answers. I hope I have answered the questions fully enough.

Dave

 

Posted

In that case my advice would be to take plenty of pictures and when you’ve put it back together and the strike doesn’t line up with the time, ask Old Hippy or Clockboy for help.

Make sure you don’t mix up the two barrels and springs - often these will have been marked g and s by previous repairers.

Posted

French striking clocks mainly have two types of striking, rack and count wheel, the count wheel tends to be on the outside of the back plate.

After removing the hands and dial from the movement, you need to let the power down on both sides, you can do this using the key and open the click from the click wheel in stages until all power is down. These movements are made of a high standard of brass and steel, if you are not familiar with this type take notes and photos of where the parts go, it’s the strike side you need to pay attention to the wheels with pins. Everything that comes apart take apart, do not touch or remove the fan adjuster. As someone has said, keep the barrels separate from each other. Normally these movements just need polishing and cleaning, some need re-bushing, so check the pivots. If the pivots are worn, you will need a lathe to make good. All brass parts should be polished and all screws should be cleaned up and polished using needle files and emery again a lathe is normally used, you can do this by hand but it’s a bit of a hit and miss.  The screws are then blued and quenched in oil, using oil gives them a nice shine. Polishing the brass, I always used brasso, apply brass to a soft brush, and use a soft cloth when polishing the plates and other plate parts and pendulum. All parts when polished and washed out are then dried. I used fine sawdust. Then all brass parts are chalked brushed using French chalk and a clean chalk brush. Depending on your skills when it comes to re-bushing you might like to make your own or you might buy the already made ones. Make sure all pivots are in good order and burnished. Remove any burr from the two arbors and polish the ends that show in the key holes.   If you need any help just ask, I expect I have missed something.

  • Like 2
Posted
2 hours ago, oldhippy said:

French striking clocks mainly have two types of striking, rack and count wheel, the count wheel tends to be on the outside of the back plate.

 

After removing the hands and dial from the movement, you need to let the power down on both sides, you can do this using the key and open the click from the click wheel in stages until all power is down. These movements are made of a high standard of brass and steel, if you are not familiar with this type take notes and photos of where the parts go, it’s the strike side you need to pay attention to the wheels with pins. Everything that comes apart take apart, do not touch or remove the fan adjuster. As someone has said, keep the barrels separate from each other. Normally these movements just need polishing and cleaning, some need re-bushing, so check the pivots. If the pivots are worn, you will need a lathe to make good. All brass parts should be polished and all screws should be cleaned up and polished using needle files and emery again a lathe is normally used, you can do this by hand but it’s a bit of a hit and miss.  The screws are then blued and quenched in oil, using oil gives them a nice shine. Polishing the brass, I always used brasso, apply brass to a soft brush, and use a soft cloth when polishing the plates and other plate parts and pendulum. All parts when polished and washed out are then dried. I used fine sawdust. Then all brass parts are chalked brushed using French chalk and a clean chalk brush. Depending on your skills when it comes to re-bushing you might like to make your own or you might buy the already made ones. Make sure all pivots are in good order and burnished. Remove any burr from the two arbors and polish the ends that show in the key holes.   If you need any help just ask, I expect I have missed something.

 

Spot on advise. 

Posted

Thank you for this detailed set of instructions. I'm going to print it so I can refer to it as I work.

Is there some kind of holder for the movement that you'd recommend. Since it is much like a larger pocket watch perhaps a similar holder would work.

Dave

Posted
10 hours ago, oldhippy said:

French striking clocks mainly have two types of striking, rack and count wheel, the count wheel tends to be on the outside of the back plate.

 

After removing the hands and dial from the movement, you need to let the power down on both sides, you can do this using the key and open the click from the click wheel in stages until all power is down. These movements are made of a high standard of brass and steel, if you are not familiar with this type take notes and photos of where the parts go, it’s the strike side you need to pay attention to the wheels with pins. Everything that comes apart take apart, do not touch or remove the fan adjuster. As someone has said, keep the barrels separate from each other. Normally these movements just need polishing and cleaning, some need re-bushing, so check the pivots. If the pivots are worn, you will need a lathe to make good. All brass parts should be polished and all screws should be cleaned up and polished using needle files and emery again a lathe is normally used, you can do this by hand but it’s a bit of a hit and miss.  The screws are then blued and quenched in oil, using oil gives them a nice shine. Polishing the brass, I always used brasso, apply brass to a soft brush, and use a soft cloth when polishing the plates and other plate parts and pendulum. All parts when polished and washed out are then dried. I used fine sawdust. Then all brass parts are chalked brushed using French chalk and a clean chalk brush. Depending on your skills when it comes to re-bushing you might like to make your own or you might buy the already made ones. Make sure all pivots are in good order and burnished. Remove any burr from the two arbors and polish the ends that show in the key holes.   If you need any help just ask, I expect I have missed something.

 

Spot on advise. 

Posted

I’ve always been curious about the French chalk.  I can’t remember what purpose it serves, but what happens if chalk dust gets left in or around the pivot holes? Will it absorb the oil and draw it out of the oil sinks, or worse still mix with it and make an abrasive paste?

 

Posted

 French chalk is used to stop the brass work from tarnishing. You use a watch blower and blow the residue away this will clean the pivot holes.  

  • Thanks 1
Posted
4 hours ago, clockboy said:

I use these supports when assembling a clock movement. Available from most material houses

 

59fb679f418d4_ScreenShot2017-11-02at18_41_56.png.b8c12e9c6165537c2ce0e1e38336f116.png

Ah, yes. I have those. I just wondered if there was another method but this would work.

Posted

Here are a few things I’ve missed.

Check the s/spring if it needs replacing do so with a new one with brass like ends not those dreadful plastic things. Clean and tidy/polish with emery, the regulator square which shows just above 12 on the dial and the end on the centre wheel where the hands are pinned. Always fit new steel pins and when you make the cut off tidy and round off with a file. When you pin the main plates make the pins all the same size and tidy and the plate the movement is pinned too. Don’t forget to polish the gong and treat the screws as I have already explained, if it’s a bell you can polish this on a mop using jewellers rouge then wash out in soapy water, the two case screws that hold the movement into the case clean them up but do not blue.    

Posted

Thank you for this. 

By s/spring I understand you to mean the 'striking' mechanism spring.

Where can I buy the fastening pins? The pins on this clock are not in very good shape.

Dave

Posted

Taper pins are sold by Cousins or you can find them on ebay, just do a search for 'Clock Taper Pins'

Its well worth having a good selection of taper pins available

Posted
43 minutes ago, Folkvisor said:

Thank you for this. 

By s/spring I understand you to mean the 'striking' mechanism spring.

Where can I buy the fastening pins? The pins on this clock are not in very good shape.

Dave

https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/steel-brass-assorted?code=P47506

http://www.m-p.co.uk/muk/parts/clock-pins.htm

https://www.hswalsh.com/categories/brass-and-steel-clock-pins

eBay (search clock pins)

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Hello, looking forward to participating on the forum here! I will mostly be listening and asking questions since I am an amateur hobbyist. I have most of the beginner hand tools and a Timegrapher. The extent of my tinkering consists of a successful Seiko 7S26 to NH36 movement swap inside an all original 1997 SKX007, along with a bunch of battery changes for friends and family. I have yet to tackle full disassembly and cleaning. Right now, I don't really have the budget or time to invest in a cleaning setup (even manual cleaning), but hopefully soon! I joined because I recently purchased a mechanical Timex Camper from 1994, and my searches for information regarding servicing and swapping out these Timex mechanical movements consistently led me to Watch Repair Talk. There is also a wealth of knowledge here about dial design, another area of interest for me. My other hobbies includes leather working (mostly small pieces, shoes eventually), crochet, sewing (would love to make clothing), design (especially type design), home espresso, cocktails, and tennis. I want to buy a film camera, but I don't need yet another expensive hobby involving last-century technology. Yes, I have ADHD.
    • HWGIKE#60 Accurist ETA 2390 Swiss lever, 21 jewels, full service A slim Accurist with a nice movement, eventless service, nice performance.  
    • Hello and welcome from Leeds, England  
    • Hello from South Carolina Barry...
    • Greetings, all. New to the forum and the red bar at the top of the screen said to introduce myself. Happy to do it. I'm an electronics guy by trade, pushing around electrons for the music industry here in Nashville.  This forum has already been a great resource. Thanks to all who contribute.  All the best, -barry.
×
×
  • Create New...