Jump to content

Tap and die


toptime810

Recommended Posts

On 16/09/2017 at 8:00 AM, oldhippy said:

What type do you want? Are you after mm or ba size.

This site should help.

http://www.tracytools.com/

Does anyone know what sizes English/American pocket watch use and type as in BA or mm and if possible drill size, there are many model engineering supply's in the U.K. But it's knowing what to get.

many thanks 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...
On ‎9‎/‎18‎/‎2017 at 9:44 AM, BUSAKAZ said:

Does anyone know what sizes English/American pocket watch use and type as in BA or mm and if possible drill size, there are many model engineering supply's in the U.K. But it's knowing what to get.

many thanks 

Anyone.......

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...
11 hours ago, transporter said:

Have a look on cousins mate, im in the same boat as you as to what sizes to get, my smallest is 1mm but reckon I need smaller but there doesn'tseem to be to much info on what we need

Yes it’s a bit rubbish really , my pocket watches are a lot smaller than 1mm

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...
5 hours ago, khunter said:

I just checked my Elgin catalog and there are 8 pages of screws. Just. Screws. I've attached a photo of just the first page, if you're interested I can post a link to the whole pdf file. 

2018-01-28 19.09.35.jpg

Thanks mate that would be great.....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Elgin and Watham made their own thread sizes for their pocket watches so you cant buy new taps and dies to fit their old watches. You need to find an old set off ebay when they turn up that are hotly contested.

Guessing the newer wristwatches made by the Swiss branded as Waltham and Elgin used metric threads

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • All I do is use a fine marker (sharpie) to put the service date on the back cover, this way it can be removed with some IPA and does no permanent damage to the watch. I'm in two minds about the whole service marking thing, sometimes it's good/bad to see the markings on the watch case back as you know it's been worked on and vice versa. However, if I took my car in for a service and the mechanic scratched some code into the housing of my engine I wouldn't be too impressed. Hence, I think my sharpie solution is a reasonable compromise.
    • hmmmm.... maybe there is a way to skin that cat 🙀 let me think on it... unless anyone else has any ideas? I left the opening in the side of the base and ring quite large to maybe allow you to grip the crown, but appreciate this may not always be possible, especially for small movements where the crown will not extend past the outer wall of the holder. I noticed this also, but after using the holder for a while I noticed that the ring/holder began to wear into shape (rough edges/bumps worn off) and the size became closer to the desired movement OD. Maybe with some trial and error we could add 0.5 mm (??) to the movement OD to allow for this initial bedding-in?
    • Hi nickelsilver, thanks for the great explanation and the links! I'll take a good look in the article.  Especially this is great news to hear! Looking through forums and youtube videos I was informed to 'fist find a case and then fit a movement for it'. But seems that's not the case for pocket watches at least?  I guess I should be looking to find some 'male square bench keys' for now. I was thinking of winding the mainspring using a screwdriver directly, but I found a thread that you've replied on, saying that it could damage the spring. 
    • Murks, The rate and amplitude look OK, and the amplitude should improve once the oils you have used get a chance to move bed-in, also I notice that you are using default 52 degrees for the lift angle, if you get the real lift angle (assuming it's not actually 52) this will change your amplitude - maybe higher, maybe lower. I notice that the beat error is a little high, but not crazy high. At the risk of upsetting the purists, if the balance has an adjustment arm I would go ahead and try and get this <0.3 ms, but if it does not have an adjustable arm then I would probably leave well alone. Just my opinion.
    • Hi everyone on my timegrapher it showing this do a make anymore adjustment someone let me know ?    
×
×
  • Create New...