Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Anyone out there know how to change battery on a QUINTING FABRIQUE  EN  SUISSE ?  The battery compartment is in outer said of back case, as I began to remove battery I could see what looks like a clear gasket but not sure has any one have experience with this watch?

  Thanks

001.jpg  quinting.jpg

Posted

Why about posting a picture of the back side opened?

And why posting in "chat"? There is a watch repair help section" for these questions.

Posted (edited)

I remember looking at these quite a few years ago they where and still are incredibly expensive watches  I think the watch contains 2 batterys or some of the movement photos I have seen show two and changing requires partial dismantling of the movement in some cases, its is a incredibly complicated movement I would not even think of replacing a battery on one myself so to answer your question take it to a authorised service agent and let them do it these retail at about £15,000 new and £7,000 secondhand why risk it if a battery change is £200.00 I would say money well spent on a watch like this,

Poor video quality but it gives you a idea of the movement

Edited by wls1971
  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

Not something I've seen or heard about before. I routinely work on 4 figure watches but this is really something else, don't think I'd have even considered trying.

I will say it's a very interesting piece and just as a technician, on both a personal and professional level I'd love to be able to do...anything at all with this. My curiosity is peaked. But for better or for worse the cautious voice in me is the louder one, and it agrees with WLS.

Edited by Ishima
  • Like 1
Posted
On 25/08/2017 at 6:09 PM, watchet said:

Anyone out there know how to change battery on a QUINTING FABRIQUE  EN  SUISSE ?  The battery compartment is in outer said of back case, as I began to remove battery I could see what looks like a clear gasket but not sure has any one have experience with this watch?

  Thanks

001.jpg  quinting.jpg

I have done some research and these watches are high end and seem complex in construction.
I would not change the battery or use any other repairer other than the manufacturer or a specialist. In my opinion it's not worth  the risk.

  • Thanks 1
  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Yep…This makes perfect sense. With that large a gap in the serial numbers, they were almost certainly machined on different equipment, hence one should have no expectation of any cross-batch compatibility. I’ll revert to the original bridge. Regarding bending the bridge @nevenbekriev, I’ll give it a try, but I may have to buy some better calipers. My Vernier calipers are only accurate to 0.1mm. Not very accurate. 
    • Yes, what I wanted to say is that the cock is part of the main plate, manufactured together with it and not meant to be interchangeable. Even if the other cock gets in place, it is not sure that the balance then will stay upright. You should use the original cock when it exists and is not destroyed. The adjustment needed by bending it is not irreversible. It is minimal deforming that is needed. No tools are needed. I have pointed to all needed references here for the balance staff endshake checking and correctness confirmation. The only tool needed for the correction is You thumb. The cock must be fixed on the main plate, no need of special plate with holes and so on. If You will feel more confident, then measure with Vernier caliper the height of the top of the cock where the stones are against the main plate bottom when the shim is fitted and try to reach the same height when bending the cock (with no balance in place!!!) Caliper with screw for fixing is perfect.    
    • Thanks for the reply. I polished the head of the screw using 1500 to 10000 lapping paper and a screw polisher. This is why I think the head blued and the rest of the screw didn't. Silly question, how do you polish the whole screw inc threads, if that's what it needs to blue? 100% clean, Elna red and heated ultrasonic bath + IPA rinse. Finally, there is definitely heat leak as there's about a 30c difference between the brass bed and the soldering station temp. Having said that, the bed temp was stable. I will try to search out a better brass pot, but I haven't found one yet, hence the stainless steel bowl. 
    • Agreed but that's where WD40 excels, water displacement. 
    • I would change the container to a thick walled brass one to start with. Looking at you screw pictures they don’t look shiny enough, really it’s best to do a black polish on them before trying. Also make sure once polished they are scrupulously clean, I dunk my experiments in acetone before bluing.   i think the thin walled stainless container to leach away the heat from the shavings, most successful bluing videos for example use thick walled brass to hold a good deep amount of shavings which acts as a better holder of heat.   Tom
×
×
  • Create New...