Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I was not hoping that it will turn out good but it did so no video of this only some bad pictures.

Komandirskie crystal was mounted on the spindle chuck nut with hot glue. Sandpapers and diamond paste up to 10000 grit were used to polish the crystal. It was full of scratches, deep dents and there is also a crack. The latter is of course still there but this was my experimenting pice. The whole project took only 15 minutes !

Lenovo_A1000_IMG_20170814_182921.thumb.jpg.4ed0796dd75cf95955826e75b9b02718.jpgLenovo_A1000_IMG_20170814_184010.thumb.jpg.3c5cbb498c0b3782a781f936cfdfdbdc.jpgLenovo_A1000_IMG_20170814_184148.thumb.jpg.d98c74b292315a625088e48f3ad58939.jpgLenovo_A1000_IMG_20170814_184431.thumb.jpg.c3ee045fe950742938d9e4fbbc4a6a6c.jpgLenovo_A1000_IMG_20170814_184443.thumb.jpg.6a8db7f0a91125f8923fafbce2a21339.jpgLenovo_A1000_IMG_20170814_185101.thumb.jpg.3665aec98b0ca692557d0049d3fd6d14.jpg20170814_195624.thumb.jpg.f9c47774106bc46df498829840704e9b.jpg

  • Like 4
Posted

Looks okay -- I guess -- from here.. but you do know you can buy these things new for a quid or something from Cousins?

'Sandpaper' and diamond paste is not the right stuff btw.. WAY too hard.. ONLY use that stuff on steel. (Not stainless steel-- I mean actual steel)

There are some very good acrylic polishes - don't use them or any polishes on plastic ' under power'  by rotating it or using rotating tools ..The acrylic quickly becomes too hot through friction and you end up making a mess of your crystal by gaining scours and ripples and some optical warping .

Nice soft cotton cloth, SMALL amount of polish,  gentle circular movements.. quite zen- like.. :)

 

Posted
1 hour ago, Lambchop said:

Looks okay -- I guess -- from here.. but you do know you can buy these things new for a quid or something from Cousins?

'Sandpaper' and diamond paste is not the right stuff btw.. WAY too hard.. ONLY use that stuff on steel. (Not stainless steel-- I mean actual steel)

There are some very good acrylic polishes - don't use them or any polishes on plastic ' under power'  by rotating it or using rotating tools ..The acrylic quickly becomes too hot through friction and you end up making a mess of your crystal by gaining scours and ripples and some optical warping .

Nice soft cotton cloth, SMALL amount of polish,  gentle circular movements.. quite zen- like.. :)

 

Thank You!

Not even a slightest scratch after diamond. Did not allowed to get to hot and was not pushing it hard. Felt with my fingers, as it started warming i used another part of the paper. Ah the spinning speed is important! You see the DC motor in the background is a car fan motor used at 5V. It has a small plley wheel and the shank has a much bigger. The spindle is between 1000 and 2000 rpm.  This is why i was posting it, i was also surprised from the result. 

  • Like 1
Posted

Can't really understand the comment (Not stainless steel-i mean actual steel) both are composites of Iron. Steel is an alloy = Iron with the introduction of 15% carbon " Though the carbon content can be increased to produce a very hard steel indeed.
Stainless steel is the same alloy but with the addition of Chromium and nickel.
I've buffed out scratches on stainless using diamond paste ?
Also I believe it's suitable on soft metals such as gold. Haven't heard of it being used on acrylic (Normally used for buffing glass) But after reading this thread will give it a go when the opportunity arises

Sent from my SM-T585 using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted

Very nice jog.... i love the 'drastic' set up and think you have a great result. I use double sticky tape and my polishing machine but the resulr does not exceeds yours.... well done

  • Like 2
Posted
On 8/25/2017 at 6:42 AM, Watchtime said:

Very nice jog.... i love the 'drastic' set up and think you have a great result. I use double sticky tape and my polishing machine but the resulr does not exceeds yours.... well done

Double sticky tape i will try definitely! Thank You!

  • Like 1
Posted
Im more of a manual labourer.

One of these to remove scratches and flatten acrylic....
top-12pcs-lot-new-style-6-way-nail-buffer.thumb.jpg.1f04e2ca5ecc6d9551c53179d4445850.jpg

Then Polywatch and a Terry towel to bring back the clarity.

Sent from my Honor 5c





Very nice! Where can I find it?

Cheers


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  • Like 1
Posted

Cheaper in Poundworld!
Also work on stainless steel.
They are in the nail beauty section as they are intended for shaping and buffing nails (fingers or toes).
Cheers Neil


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted
18 hours ago, szbalogh said:

Double sticky tape i will try definitely! Thank You!

Make sure the crystal does not get's too warm, otherwise it will come off the sticky tape.

  • Like 1
Posted
On 8/23/2017 at 5:28 AM, digginstony said:

Can't really understand the comment (Not stainless steel-i mean actual steel) both are composites of Iron. Steel is an alloy = Iron with the introduction of 15% carbon " Though the carbon content can be increased to produce a very hard steel indeed.
Stainless steel is the same alloy but with the addition of Chromium and nickel.

Maybe Lambchop was referring to that fact that diamond pastes should not be used on soft-metal bearing surfaces, but only on hardened steel. If you use it on brass etc, or maybe even mild steel, diamond particles will embed in the bearing surface and wear it out over time. Perhaps diamond particles will also embed in the acrylic watch glass, but I have no idea if that is problematic or not. Ditto for gold jewelry.

15% carbon is way too much btw, even 1% makes for a very hard steel after heat treatment..

Cheers!

    Rob

Posted
Maybe Lambchop was referring to that fact that diamond pastes should not be used on soft-metal bearing surfaces, but only on hardened steel. If you use it on brass etc, or maybe even mild steel, diamond particles will embed in the bearing surface and wear it out over time. Perhaps diamond particles will also embed in the acrylic watch glass, but I have no idea if that is problematic or not. Ditto for gold jewelry.
15% carbon is way too much btw, even 1% makes for a very hard steel after heat treatment..
Cheers!
    Rob
Apologies. Should of read 0.15% [emoji16]

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted

Re reading the thread. Stainless steel is significantly harder than mild steel 0.05%.
Interesting comment about microscopic contamination. Though I suspect this could be argued about any abrasive used.
Though it should be considered that a watch case and to a lesser degree, acrylic crystal, is hardly a high contact bearing "part" and any supposed contamination would most probably be, in practicable terms, insignificant.

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Yep…This makes perfect sense. With that large a gap in the serial numbers, they were almost certainly machined on different equipment, hence one should have no expectation of any cross-batch compatibility. I’ll revert to the original bridge. Regarding bending the bridge @nevenbekriev, I’ll give it a try, but I may have to buy some better calipers. My Vernier calipers are only accurate to 0.1mm. Not very accurate. 
    • Yes, what I wanted to say is that the cock is part of the main plate, manufactured together with it and not meant to be interchangeable. Even if the other cock gets in place, it is not sure that the balance then will stay upright. You should use the original cock when it exists and is not destroyed. The adjustment needed by bending it is not irreversible. It is minimal deforming that is needed. No tools are needed. I have pointed to all needed references here for the balance staff endshake checking and correctness confirmation. The only tool needed for the correction is You thumb. The cock must be fixed on the main plate, no need of special plate with holes and so on. If You will feel more confident, then measure with Vernier caliper the height of the top of the cock where the stones are against the main plate bottom when the shim is fitted and try to reach the same height when bending the cock (with no balance in place!!!) Caliper with screw for fixing is perfect.    
    • Thanks for the reply. I polished the head of the screw using 1500 to 10000 lapping paper and a screw polisher. This is why I think the head blued and the rest of the screw didn't. Silly question, how do you polish the whole screw inc threads, if that's what it needs to blue? 100% clean, Elna red and heated ultrasonic bath + IPA rinse. Finally, there is definitely heat leak as there's about a 30c difference between the brass bed and the soldering station temp. Having said that, the bed temp was stable. I will try to search out a better brass pot, but I haven't found one yet, hence the stainless steel bowl. 
    • Agreed but that's where WD40 excels, water displacement. 
    • I would change the container to a thick walled brass one to start with. Looking at you screw pictures they don’t look shiny enough, really it’s best to do a black polish on them before trying. Also make sure once polished they are scrupulously clean, I dunk my experiments in acetone before bluing.   i think the thin walled stainless container to leach away the heat from the shavings, most successful bluing videos for example use thick walled brass to hold a good deep amount of shavings which acts as a better holder of heat.   Tom
×
×
  • Create New...