Jump to content

Any Advice On A Nice, Accurate Vernier Gauge?

WillFly

By WillFly
in Watch Repairs Help & Advice

 Share

Recommended Posts

Geo Distinguished Member

Geo

Posted
Posted (edited)

I tend to use Mitutoyo, they are excellent..........but I bought a cheap Chinese one and in all honesty it works just fine. Whatever you make sure you get a metal one and not a cheap plastic one.

The cheap one was the same as this one:-

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/150mm-ELECTRONIC-DIGITAL-CALIPERS-VERNIER-WITH-LCD-INC-HARD-CASE-/290679682771?pt=UK_Measuring_Tools_Levels&hash=item43addbf6d3

Edited by Geo
Link to comment
Share on other sites
bobm12 Distinguished Member

bobm12

Posted
Posted

ooops! I got the cheapo! In any case, I haven't had any issues with it either, but the all metal one will be my goal if Bergeon -- which keeps coming out with more and more different tools -- allows it!

Link to comment
Share on other sites
RosscoInOshawa WRT Addict

RosscoInOshawa

Posted
Posted

FWIW, I've got a Mitutoyo true vernier scale caliper (metric and imperial), an import dial vernier caliper and a Brown and Sharpe 1 inch micrometer with carbide faces all of which I use in the machine shop that range in price from $20 - $30 CDN although the micrometer was not bought new but second hand.

 

I find the imports are fine too for the most part but have heard if you buy a digital caliper to keep an eye on the batteries as they tend to leak and ruin the internals.

 

Starrett is the ultimate in some machine shop circles but very, very pricey.

 

Rossco

Link to comment
Share on other sites
carl Member

carl

Posted
Posted

I have a digital Mitutoyo, and a conventional Moore and Wright. I have had them for 26 and 29 years respectively and have never had an issue with accuracy or battery usage. I have changed the battery in the Mitutoyo 10 times over the years and it does a fair amount of work.  As for micrometers I user Moore and Wright. as with the conventional vainer callipers I have had my micrometers for 29 years and again never had a problem with accuracy. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
Geo Distinguished Member

Geo

Posted
Posted

At the beginning of the month I bought a JKA FEINTASTER comparator in as new condition. For this horology lark it really is the business. I have a couple of jeweling jobs to do and having watched Mark's video, I thought it was the way to go.

post-124-0-38865000-1406208407_thumb.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
Legarm WRT Addict

Legarm

Posted
Posted

At the beginning of the month I bought a JKA FEINTASTER comparator in as new condition. For this horology lark it really is the business. I have a couple of jeweling jobs to do and having watched Mark's video, I thought it was the way to go.

 

I would love one of these, but the budget and wife, won't allow it.

So I bought a reasonable quality 0.001mm micrometer and formed a small piece of aluminium around the shaft, which will also slide to allow normal use of the tool.

It is excellent for Jewels as they sit flat on the arc of the sleeve.

 

post-227-0-85804800-1406712198_thumb.jpg

 

post-227-0-41349800-1406712231_thumb.jpg

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites
Geo Distinguished Member

Geo

Posted
Posted

I bought a reasonable quality 0.001mm micrometer and formed a small piece of aluminium around the shaft, which will also slide to allow normal use of the tool.

It is excellent for Jewels as they sit flat on the arc of the sleeve.

 

What a delightfully simple yet effective solution to a fiddly problem. I like it!

Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...
clockboy Distinguished Member

clockboy

Posted
Posted

I use a cheapo Chinese vernier which I tend to use a lot and is great for most measurements. However I have a Mitutoyo micrometer for more the accurate readings. However I wish I had a Comparator as the micrometer can be real fiddly when measuring jewels etc.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Legarm WRT Addict

Legarm

Posted
Posted

I use a cheapo Chinese vernier which I tend to use a lot and is great for most measurements. However I have a Mitutoyo micrometer for more the accurate readings. However I wish I had a Comparator as the micrometer can be real fiddly when measuring jewels etc.

 

 

 I bought a reasonable quality 0.001mm micrometer and formed a small piece of aluminium around the shaft, which will also slide to allow normal use of the tool.

It is excellent for Jewels as they sit flat on the arc of the sleeve.

 

Close up.jpg

 

Close up 2.jpg

Posted 30 July 2014 - 10:24 AM

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Mark Distinguished Member

Mark

Posted
Posted

At the beginning of the month I bought a JKA FEINTASTER comparator in as new condition. For this horology lark it really is the business. I have a couple of jeweling jobs to do and having watched Mark's video, I thought it was the way to go.

Good choice. I purchased mine from a seller in Germany on the eBay.de website - it cost significantly less than buying it here in the uk. Think it cost me about £100 all in with postage which is a bargain but I had to do a little work on it to make it perfect. And the wooden box is prone to splitting but a bit of PVA sorted that out.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • 5 months later...
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • rjenkinsgb
      Accutron 218 transistors

      By rjenkinsgb · Posted

      Many would disagree: https://www.rohm.com/products/faq-search/faqId/234 https://uk.farnell.com/c/semiconductors-discretes/transistors/bipolar-transistors/pre-biased-digital-bipolar-transistors https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/bipolar-transistors/8232832P?gb=s https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/bipolar-transistors/0580240?gb=s (RS don't have a specific category, but over 1000 "digital transistor" items).  
    • Hawaiikook808
      Seitz Tool - Help determine if Seitz or not

      By Hawaiikook808 · Posted

      Thanks, ManSkirtBrew.  I started looking for a setup like yours and ran across this.  It was about half the price of the JKA Feintaster (depending on what auction you were in), and it's a Bergeon.  I bought it because I thought the price was fair (eBay - Buy it now), and I'm a sucker for vintage tools. It also has a table, so it should be easy to use for measuring jewels. I wonder if the the contact points can be changed out. Bergeon seems to manufacture new tables and accessories for the contemporary dial version. What do you guys think of it? I'm sorry this post seems to have taken a detour. I'm new here so let me know if I should start a new topic.
    • nevenbekriev
      Winding pinion making

      By nevenbekriev · Posted

      This is a flying cutter, usual one. The cutter itself is shown in the pictures in the first message, it is made of broken tungsten carbide drill bit. I asure that all the angles of the cutter are as they should be. I have video - little older one - that I made when onse making the same kind of winding pinion for a Poljot 2200, which is even smaller than this one. It is not easy to see in the video, but the tool rest moves about 1mm towards the object in Y direction and then returns back untill cutter is rotating. Then the spindle is rotated one tooth ahead and everything repeated untill all teeth are cut.
    • Trav2004
      Help Identifying movement

      By Trav2004 · Posted

      After a bit further research could it possibly be an AS 970?
    • Bonefixer
      FHF70 balance jewels settings

      By Bonefixer · Posted

      Latest project was a non-running ebay purchase with an FHF70 movement. I stripped and cleaned it, reassembled it, and got it running. So far so good, nothing damaged AFAIK.  I was oiling the top jewel on the balance (the one in the cock) which was a slightly unusual shock setting. I removed the spring (3 leaves) which was part of a chaton holding the cap jewel. This left the hole jewel behind which I retrieved with rodico and then lost it. I was taking it off the rodico, very gently as I thought, with tweezers, and then it just disappeared.  Fast forward a week, I got a donor movement, non-running, with the plan to just take the shock jewel that I’d lost. It was the same movement but had standard incabloc settings, and was steel rather than copper/brass.  I changed the cock and balance complete and it ran, not very well. I switched the lower jewel setting, cleaned and oiled both jewels and the replacement balance. Without the pallet fork the balance swings very nicely with a puff of air. With the fork in place, balance out, it flicks side to side nicely with power in the mainspring.  Put them together and it doesn’t run. The impulse jewel sits in the fork and it stops.      Any suggestions how I proceed? In case you didn’t follow that I have 2 FHF70 movements, nothing broken as far as I can tell, but mixing up the balance wheels and jewel settings results in a non runner. 
×
×
  • Create New...