Had to get new winding stem to an Omega cal. 342 , beacuse not original crown.
Got an replacement from Ronda, but does not fit.
Tried to fit the stem yesterday, but Im not able to get in in right in the movment. The original just go right in every time, but the new Ronda stem will not go properly in. Are there anyone that have some ide why this not fit? Can the notch in the stem where I have put red arrow have somthing todo with this?? Its slightly smaller on the Ronda stem... se photo
i wonder if anyone could offer some advice. I have an Omega seamaster 1345 quartz day date. Working well. However it seems the date is stuck (as shown in pictures) i know the push button at the 4 o clock position is meant to filter through the date? However when pushed in nothing seems to happen. As a result of this the watch works fine but only up untill 11pm it doesnt turn over to midnight and therefor change the day or date. Minute hand works perfectly but it seems i have to change the hour position every morning.
when i turn the crown, hour hand moves fune and after the 12 o clock position changes the day, but date does not moth along with it.
anyone know how i can resolve this safely without removing too many parts of the movement?
Good evening everyone. I am new to this forum and i can see we have some outstanding experts on the site.
brand new to watch repair and looking to get some advice. I purchased an Omega seamaster quarts 1342 watch (not currently working and not tested) as it was a bargain and understand that 329 is the equivalent of the original mercury battery used when the watch was manufactured?
I am hoping the battery change will mean it is functional but in the event it does not work, how easy/costly is it to repair. (I’ve heard parts can turn this bargain into a money pit)
would anyone in this community willing to have a go at fixing it after i try battery change?
paid service of course.
any help advice would be much appreciated
This one is a real mystery so I thought I'd toss it up here in case someone else has come across this problem.
I've reassembled the Speedmaster which was lacking parts (see my earlier inquiry) and have it up and running again. It's a long story, but amazingly, after missing a bundle of parts and being terribly neglected it's ticking away happily and the chronograph works a treat- but there is one BIG problem. The watch runs about two seconds per minute fast. That adds up pretty quickly. The timegrapher trace isn't too clean but it is consistent and it shows the watch running much better than that (note the image only shows about fifteen seconds of testing on the timegrapher- rest assured, I've had it on there a lot longer than that and have pretty much the same results in all positions)
So why does the timegrapher show the watch running less than a minute off per day but the real world results are so much different? Well there are a few possible problem areas. The escapement may be the problem but the pallet and balance (complete) are NOS replacements from Omega. The escape wheel may be an issue- perhaps it's "slipping" and the pallet isn't locking consitantly. I haven't seen this on the timegrapher though nor have I seen it while watching the escapement under the microscope.
Still, there are some obvious issues in the movement. Whoever disassembled it before I got it made a real mess of things. For example the Delrin wheel on the coupling clutch was vandalized terribly by a wayward screwdriver. It took quite a while to get the gear teeth back in order (the "before" picture is below). I secured a NOS replacement just in case the movement didn't accept the repaired coupling clutch.
Despite this damage, I don't think the coupling clutch is the problem. The fourth wheel is positioned between the coupling clutch and the escape wheel. It's regulated by the escape wheel and the running seconds hand is attached to the fourth wheel. When I time how long it takes for the running seconds hand to make a full revolution using the stopwatch built into my iPhone, I come up with 58.02 seconds (give or take a few tenths).
I'm thinking the problem lies with the fourth wheel. The Lemania 5012 chronograph movement (Tissot 2920) runs at a slower 21600 BPM. The replacement of the fourth wheel in this movement (a Lemania 5100, 28800 BPM derivative) with one manufactured for the 5012 movement would result in the watch running fast. It's questionable whether the gear teeth would mesh properly though. Right now it's just a guess. I may need to tear the movement back down to check the gear ratios for each of the wheels in the train to confirm they're the right wheels for the movement but before I do that I was hoping someone might have solved a mystery such as this before and have some good advice to offer! Thanks in advance for the comments as they are always helpful!
Here's a few pics of the watch as it came together- just because posts with pictures are always more interesting.
Before service begins...
Why you should periodically replace your spring bars-
Omega gaskets self destruct (turn into tar) if they aren't replaced for forty years...
This movement is plastic fantastic but I love it. Other than not keeping time at all, it's the easiest chronograph movement I've worked on.
Look at all those scratches- previous watchmaker's tool of choice- screwdriver or machete?
It is a pretty beast though.
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Hi All advise given is wise and should be noted, also consider lightening the inside of any desk/work place so as to give good reflection of light. My workbench is covered in white lino tile, a pale green as per the bergeon mats etc. as Marc says the roll top is probably the best option.
Thanks for the encouragement. I think it has to be a right-hand thread on the arbor, due to the direction the spring is acting. The mainspring did indeed have quite a bit of power left in it. There was a buzzing and a whirring for quite a while after I pulled out the balance, so it seems I have been very lucky indeed! I will check everything carefully again for damage. I have already found one cracked jewel.
That is (almost) identical to the part I have. Could not have wished for better support, thank you! I do not have the two holes in the barrel arbour, so I can't use a compass or similar to unscrew it. I will try gripping the circumference with something. The action of the spring suggests it is a conventional right-hand thread, correct? Part of the stop-function (the disc with the finger on it) was missing when I opened the case, so it may well have been broken by another bodger who got there before me. I have the Maltese cross part. I may have a go at making a replacement if it's not too difficult. Would you have a picture of the part I need? How is it held in place?