Jump to content

Hi

Hilts

By Hilts
in Introduce Yourself Here

 Share

Recommended Posts

Hilts New Member

Hilts

Posted
Posted

Hello folks,

First post to say hello, lots of very knowledgeable people and information here , a great site so thought i would join up.

Just starting my journey of discovery with watches, after a lifetime of mechanical engineering and taking things apart. Charged and found guilty of disassembling a Stanley hand drill chuck aged 7, apparently it took me 2 hours to put it back together, so i have form if nothing else.

I currently have an Omega Seamaster Deville (Caliber 562) that I am looking at servicing. I am taking it very slowly, reading lots and trying to gather from others,  I am humbled by how much skilled people are willing to share here.

Kind regards to all 

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Cad101 Super WRT Addict

Cad101

Posted
Posted

Hello Hilts and welcome I would agree with @clockboy find yourself a couple of cheap working automatic  movements first. Strip them and rebuild them to a running state. Don't rush into such a nice movement because its there. Take your time and get to grips with your tools first handling parts with tweezers takes a while to master.

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
oldhippy Distinguished Member

oldhippy

Posted
Posted

Hello and welcome, your best bet in starting out is get hold of a few pocket watches (not fusee's) and just keep taking them apart and putting them back, don't matter if they don't work, get to know the names of the parts, they won't be automatics but you will learn a lot, there just like a watch but much bigger, what you have is a very expensive watch and is classed as a high grade watch movement, its a hell of a step jumping in on something like an Omega, its like jumping in water and swimming but you haven't learned to swim. There's loads of advice on here about the sort of tools you will need as well.   

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites
Geo Distinguished Member

Geo

Posted
Posted

A warm welcome to the forum Hilts.  Your background, including the juvenile overhaul of a Stanley hand drill, is almost identical to mine.

The advice you've received already is very sound, I too would stress that you do not make a 562 movement your first victim.  Here is a link to a topic relating to a 561 movement I serviced a while ago.  This will give you a good idea of the complexity you will have to contend with.

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
Hilts New Member

Hilts

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks for the replies folks.

 I guess i was hoping for a "give it a go son" post in reply, but your collective wisdom is too much to ignore.

I have a couple of books under my belt and a couple of Doanld de Carle's coming, whilst i collect tools together.

I am spending a bit each month and having a lovely time selecting. I have also been wowed by the watch repair channel on you tube and low and behold it seems to be Mark on here so kudos and respect to him. I take your point about tools and was cognisant of this when watching one of Marks video's as I observed him approaching parts to pick up with tweezers closed then opening them to the required size which struck me as quite sensible but not something i would have done naturally.  

Geo thanks for the link, wonderful. I also saw  canthus's thread on the similar Cal 552  and the excellent tool they made for the reversing gear assembly, this has inspired me to do the right thing and get some simpler movements to practice on .

Thanks again to all. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Vich Distinguished Member

Vich

Posted
Posted

Hello Hilts and welcome from me.
Glad you have seen the light. Always best to take it slow. Don't forget to take a pic before and after you remove each part and you will always have a guide on getting things back in the right place.
Cheers,
Vic

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Bonefixer
      AS2063 - hand setting

      By Bonefixer · Posted

      That will mean dismantling the gear train, which with 5 pivots to align was a pain. Probably going to have to though. I'm convinced it's something to do with the great wheel. 
    • VWatchie
      Epilame / Fixodrop

      By VWatchie · Posted

      As far as I know, the only time an epilame treatment has potential drawbacks is when something is rubbing on the treated part w/o lubrication in between creating abrasive dust. That is, I don't believe in the method of "running the watch to make a groove through it first in the pallet stones where the lubrication is then placed". So, I think the rule would be; do not epilame treat parts where rubbing is going on without lubrication. Other than that I don't think we have anything to worry about. That said, I'm not an expert, and I'm always happy to learn more. Has any other repairer than Alex suggested or explained the "making-a-groove" method? My impression is that it's just something he constructed in his mind. I have not perceived it as a generally practiced method. Again, I could be wrong!
    • Neverenoughwatches
      AS2063 - hand setting

      By Neverenoughwatches · Posted

      Post some pictures , some good close ones of the parts you've described. 
    • Neverenoughwatches
      Epilame / Fixodrop

      By Neverenoughwatches · Posted

      Ive never used epilame H only information i have read and mentally stored about it mostly from Nicklesilver here and elsewhere ( the fork horns thing ), maybe the residue powder that is removed has some grinding effect ? So probably a good idea to limit its application areas to only the absolute necessary. Yes as far as i know epilame rubs off relatively easy, the technique of running the watch to make a groove through it first in the pallet stones where the lubrication is then placed. This i understand creates the barrier for the lube to sit up to. If i can find a good balance of pros and cons of its use then thats one process i can avoid by using a thixotropic lube on the stones. The epilame i would say allows for a more fluid lubrication to be used that would increase amplitude on low beat movements. The stearic acid powder is extremely cheap, the problem is the fuming process to coat parts, is not selective , the whole part has to treated in this method. If epilame residue can cause wear then thats not good, if I remember the conclusion was not proved entirely just a general assumption between watchmakers. The thread is out there somewhere, the same discussion is also old on a facebook group. Ive never used epilame H only information i have read and mentally stored about it mostly from Nicklesilver here and elsewhere ( the fork horns thing ), maybe the residue powder that is removed has some grinding effect ? So probably a good idea to limit its application areas to only the absolute necessary. Yes as far as i know epilame rubs off relatively easy, the technique of running the watch to make a groove through it first in the pallet stones where the lubrication is then placed. This i understand creates the barrier for the lube to sit up to. If i can find a good balance of pros and cons of its use then thats one process i can avoid by using a thixotropic lube on the stones. The epilame i would say allows for a more fluid lubrication to be used that would increase amplitude on low beat movements. The stearic acid powder is extremely cheap, the problem is the fuming process to coat parts, is not selective , the whole part has to treated in this method. If epilame residue can cause wear then thats not good, if I remember the conclusion was not proved entirely just a general assumption between watchmakers. The thread is out there somewhere, the same discussion is also old on a facebook group. If its a potential problem for amateurs to use then i would prefer not to take the risk .
    • Bonefixer
      AS2063 - hand setting

      By Bonefixer · Posted

      Following on from my question about identifying screws in the AS2063 movement that basically fell out of the case in bits, I’m pleased to report that I’ve got it all back together, and the movement is running pretty well.    But… There’s something wrong with the keyless works and hand setting. It’s fine in winding and quickset date position - these work - but in hand setting position winding the crown turns the whole gear train.  I don’t really understand how it’s meant to work. It doesn’t have a traditional friction fit cannon pinion.  The second wheel is unusual with a pair of smaller pinions on it, which seem to interact with the barrel and the motion works.    Could this be the problem? I must admit I just cleaned it and popped it in place when reassembling the gear train. I’ve lubricated the pivots but didn’t do anything to the extra bits on the second wheel.    Does this make sense and is anyone able to figure out what I’m doing wrong? Thanks in advance, as always.    ETA - the parts list calls it the Great Wheel, not second wheel. 
×
×
  • Create New...