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jdrichard

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Copper plate is often used as an intermediate layer before other more difficult plating materials. For the faker, making all your blanks in brass means you can use the same part for a steel effect or a gold effect.

Yours is probably nickel plated. If you want to try some fun chemistry then you can buy nickle plating solution on the internet. If it works then great, if it doesn't, then one more fake can be consigned to the scrap bin :)

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316~L is used with the higher end replica watches, and the super replica watches are currently being planned to be built using 904 stainless steel, especially the Rolex models, and prices will be over $1000 per replica watch..

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Copper plate is often used as an intermediate layer before other more difficult plating materials. For the faker, making all your blanks in brass means you can use the same part for a steel effect or a gold effect.

Yours is probably nickel plated. If you want to try some fun chemistry then you can buy nickle plating solution on the internet. If it works then great, if it doesn't, then one more fake can be consigned to the scrap bin [emoji4]


Thanks for the advice. What about chrome? It was invented and used in pocket watches starting in the 20ies and 30ies. I have an aluminum guitar that was chromed and they had to add Zinc, Copper and then chrome.e2bcf99fb9d48fe6ae4e8b1a1c1db4e2.jpg

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Sorry if this is going a little off topic... The zinc is required because the surface of the aluminium oxidizes as soon as it's exposed to the air. Copper adheres nicely to the zinc and the chrome.  As aluminium is relatively soft and chrome hard, this combination is still susceptible to cracking and flaking of the chrome, so treat with care.

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Sorry if this is going a little off topic... The zinc is required because the surface of the aluminium oxidizes as soon as it's exposed to the air. Copper adheres nicely to the zinc and the chrome.  As aluminium is relatively soft and chrome hard, this combination is still susceptible to cracking and flaking of the chrome, so treat with care.


Build buy a guy who does Motorcycle parts. Should endure. Should do watch cases the same way.


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8 hours ago, jdrichard said:


Thanks for the advice. What about chrome? It was invented and used in pocket watches starting in the 20ies and 30ies. I have an aluminum guitar that was chromed and they had to add Zinc, Copper and then chrome.e2bcf99fb9d48fe6ae4e8b1a1c1db4e2.jpg

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OMG....they make electric guitars out of aluminum...never seen one.

I have a resonator, but nothing like this.

fascinating. 

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    • yes the end stones on the balance are flat on one side curved on the other. So yes curves side out unless you would like to reduce your end shake and have issues like you're having. Oh and minor technical problem the lift angles 50° according to the tech sheet. you dropped off a specification like the watch was fully wound up or its 24 hours later? So dial-up and dial down should be as close to identical as possible you have 221 and 215 maybe it's okay but it seems like they should be a little closer. Then as soon as you go to the crown positions dropping below 200.this is definitely a problem watch companies don't care about the maximum amplitude sort of in not supposed to go above 315° on this watch but at the end of 24 hours in the 6H  which is basically the 6 o'clock is up at the end of 24 hours it cannot go below 200° and basically all of your crown positions are unacceptable. Here is what the specifications are you will note that watch companies do not get obsessed with amplitudes like they do in this group. They only get obsessed with amplitudes at 24 hours for which this watch is unacceptable. although I'm assuming and I hate to do that that this watch is probably fully wound up and it 24 hours probably a miracle if the watch runs at all.
    • Also when you have it on the bench. Check that the rack is dropping the full amount and in the right place  on the snail.
    • I agree with clockboy. Just so you know what part is the snail here is a picture of a movement and I have marked the snail for you.
    • My watchmaker friend once told me that you can swap reversing wheels between SW200 and ETA 2824 but NOT the whole bridge, just the wheels. I asked him that about parts interchangeability because I was working on a Maurice Lacroix with a rusted SW200's ball bearing. He said that he doesn't know about the bearing but I try swapping anyway, first I put the whole ETA rotor on the SW200 and it worked perfectly, so I punched the rusted bearing on the Maurice Lacroix rotor out and replaced it with ETA's. Since the bearing gear connects directly to the reversing wheels I say the wheels must be swappable. Don't know about 2892 and SW300 though, I never asked my friend about that. I wish someone out there with parts could spend their time to try swapping parts between various ETAs and SWs then make a compatible list, we the community would really appreciated it.
    • It could be the position of the snail wheel. You will need to test on your bench and watch what is a happening. 
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