Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I received another box of goodies from Cousins this week which included my oils and grease.

I already had 8200 for the main spring, but purchased D5, 9010 and 9415, but my budget could not stretch to include 9501 at the moment. For now I will only be working on simple manual wind movements, so bearing this in mind can I use D5 on the keyless work instead of 9501 until my budget can stretch to get myself some 9501?

 

thanks

Posted

Thanks. I will get 9501  probably in the new year when I place my next order from Cousins I just dont want to wait until them before I can start practising servicing watches.

 

I can always strip them down again at a later date and clean and re-oil them again I just want to get started now

 

Posted

Hello Tmuir,

Keep the D5 use very light in the keyless works.  You really need a grease in the keyless works to prevent spreading into unwanted areas, which D5 will do if its applied too heavily. 

J

  • Like 1
Posted

I heard 9504 is better then 9501 (for the cannon pinion)

For the keyless work I believe hp1300 is better then d5 (better marketed, anyway)

Posted
3 hours ago, matabog said:

I heard 9504 is better then 9501 (for the cannon pinion)

For the keyless work I believe hp1300 is better then d5 (better marketed, anyway)

Not just marketing, 9104 (HP1300) is a synthetic oil and that makes a difference in lasting. D5 is still on many service sheets simply because these predates the introduction of more modern formulations, and will never be updated.

Posted (edited)

9501 and 9504 are very similar greases and Moebius state that 9504 has 9501 as its base.

9504 differs from 9501 in that 9504 has a heavier base oil (synthetic), has a more stable soap structure (soap is the thickener which holds the oil) and has added EP (extreme pressure) and anti-wear additives.  On this basis it would perform better in high load areas, but in most cases the cheaper 9501 would suffice.

I would always go for synthetic oils and greases if you can afford them as they are more stable, will retain properties much longer, and generally have higher performance.  Most standard 'synthetic' oils are basically 'synthesised' from mineral crude oil and so are fully compatible and will not be detrimental to seals etc.  Some synthetics (eg 9415) have a different structure.  Care is needed when plastic parts are involved (the oil may not be wetable enough) but generally these are not a real problem if quality watch oils are used.

Edited by canthus
typos
  • Like 1
Posted
45 minutes ago, canthus said:

9501 and 9504 are very similar greases and Moebius state that 9504 has 9501 as its base.

9504 differs from 9501 in that 9504 has a heavier base oil (synthetic), has a more stable soap structure (soap is the thickener which holds the oil) and has added EP (extreme pressure) and anti-wear additives.  On this basis it would perform better in high load areas, but in most cases the cheaper 9501 would suffice.

I would always go for synthetic oils and greases if you can afford them as they are more stable, will retain properties much longer, and generally have higher performance.  Most standard 'synthetic' oils are basically 'synthesised' from mineral crude oil and so are fully compatible and will not be detrimental to seals etc.  Some synthetics (eg 9415) have a different structure.  Care is needed when plastic parts are involved (the oil may not be wetable enough) but generally these are not a real problem if quality watch oils are used.

Thanks @canthus. I stopped short of suggesting the use of 9501, but I agree that it can be used, and is probably a better choice than D5.

J

Posted
1 hour ago, jaycey said:

Over here....I will let you into a little secret, Molykote DX.

Shh...Don't tell anyone ;) 

 

Is this the same as Lubeta V105? Not really for the keyless works.

J

Posted
8 hours ago, noirrac1j said:

Is this the same as Lubeta V105? Not really for the keyless works.

J

No, nothing like Lubeta, it is not a liquid it's a grease. I originally used it (as recommended at the time by ETA) for chronograph parts that come in contact with each other.

I have been using it for some time on sliding pinions, cannon pinions etc and not had one watch come back or fail.

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

Molykote Dx is also a good grease but getting a bit long in the teeth now.  9504 has similar base oil viscosity but Dx is mineral oil so will not give the same life/performance as 9504 with synthetic oil.  The soap base is basic  lithium unlike 9504's complex soap which again will give better stability for longer (the oil does the lube the soap just holds the oil in place).  Dx has a solid lubricant like molybdenum and 9504 has Boron which more stable than moly.  9504 also has EP and antiwear additives.

Dx does have the advantage of being white in colour whereas 9504 is light blue.  This may be important for visible movements. Dx is also lower cost!

Edited by canthus
added text
  • Like 1
  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Hello all, I am working on an older Valjoux Chrono. It doesn't have a stamp on the movement anywhere but I believe it is a Valjoux 72. I installed the train of wheels and they will not turn. The problem appears to be the 4th wheel and the escape wheel are not interfacing correctly. I had to replace both of these parts as the pivots were broken on each. I sourced genuine Valjoux/ETA replacements. I think the problem is with the escape wheel as all the wheels turn perfectly if I remove just the escape wheel.  My question to those with more Valjoux experience is am I mistaken? Is this some other model altogether and I have the wrong part or parts?    
    • I would remove the wheels, check for damage and if not damaged, clean. 
    • Thanks for the replies! Here's a photo of the front of the clock and a GIF animation of the movement (exposed by removing the black cap in the centre of the clock). You can see the behaviour of the gears. It's a fairly valuable clock from the 80s (Braun ABW 35). I'm not sure if replacing the movement would diminish the value, so I'd prefer to keep the original parts if it's easy to fix. But since the movement itself is pretty generic, I guess, maybe replacing it wouldn't make any difference with regard to the value of the clock? Or would it? I suppose the value is mostly in the design.
    • Well, my fundamental stance is that I want to go in and out without leaving any trace other than a shining, perfectly running movement. So, no scratchings on the inside of the case back lid, no marred screws, no debris, no fingerprints, and so on. That is, my goal is to make it impossible for the FBI to track me down. As a professional, I suppose you might want to keep track of returning watches, but as @JohnR725 mentioned, we can keep detailed computer records without marking the watch at all. That may not be true for every watch, but luxury and COSC-certified movements do have unique numbers. John also says it’s best to leave no sign you were ever there, and I couldn't agree more. Now, suppose the Sea-Dweller I'm working on is one day scrapped, and you want to sell the case-back separately (perhaps the case was destroyed in a plane crash). Then the scribbles on the inside no longer reflect the current movement inside the case. Also, the engraving will likely halve the market value of the case back. It had been "sleeping" for about a week and a half. Yes, the "debris/old lubricant" theory is my hypothesis as well! It will be interesting to see what I find once I have time to start disassembling the movement.
    • I've repaired a few of these, having some success with stripping and cleaning the mechanism.  They are so cheap though, its hardly worth the effort in many cases.
×
×
  • Create New...