Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

Congrats. Looks like it has good amplitude, but can you take pics on the timegrapher or equivalent application? That will tell if the watch is running properly.

Edited by jdm
  • Like 1
Posted

Ah there's nothing like your first. Good job my man keep it up it looks to be running well. Do you own a timegrapher yet it will help a lot with regulating and help with fault finding. But with the amount of oil you bought I should let your funds replenish unless of course money is no object in which case get one ordered:D

  • Like 1
Posted

Thanks everyone. Yeah. Those oil disasters always take time to recover from. :) Going to have to wait a bit on a timegrapher. Note to self: Google timegrapher. :)

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

Great job! Remember to buy the timegrapher, the staking tool set, the jeweling set and the escapement tester. Do not waste your money on cheap, disreputable tools, buy witschi, Bergeon, Seitz, and Bergeon respectively....It is only a few dollars...like US$10K....more?

PS. I have to make a living somehow, remember to tell them I sent you!!! :D

Cheers,

Bob

PS2. No, seriously, great job and just have fun!!

I remember my first one: I was so happy then, I threw away my only time keeping devise I had before: a solar alarm clock. You know, the one with the blade sticking up...in the garden... always making this sound in the morning: cock-a-doodle-doo, oh well! :D

 

  • Like 1
Posted

Sometimes not having a timegrapher is a blessing. It's fine if you trying to find/diagnose the problem but you will waste a lot of time trying to nail down that last bit of accuracy..getting it perfect. Most watches run ok enough. Give or take a minute or two a day.

A watch would have been a good runner 40 years ago but there will be wear and you have to accept that unless you are prepared to change all the wheels other stuff. Positional accuracy is especially tough to get right.

Sometimes ignorance is bliss.

Anil

Posted (edited)

Congratulations from me as well, I stripped and reassembled my bro in laws watch as my first, it was not so much excitement as sheer relief that it worked, it was just gummed up really and needed a service. I was lucky it kept good time as well.  

I have since acquired the timegrapher and spent quite a bit on tools as well but sometimes I just like to look at them and clean them a bit - oh dear that sounds  weird, but tools are great.

Cheers,

Vic

Edited by Vich
Forgot why I did it
  • Like 1

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • First of all, thank you for the pdf file of the book on how to replace a gem. So, if there is a problem with the ruby in the movement, should I buy a new or used movement and replace it? When I watch videos on YouTube of people fixing used watches, I feel like there should be a way to buy a gem. Is there no way to buy it?
    • I suppose @donutdan is not forced to earn his living by repairing watches.  I suppose he does it as a hobby and wants to gain experience, to get better in watchmaking and time is not the issue. Then @donutdan should rather try to repair the damage instead of swap parts from a maybe intact other movement. Swapping parts is not watchmaking. And often swapped parts are not the expected solution of all problems. All mentioned damages are repairable. Frank  
    • Yeah I figured that one out when I googled and realized that my spindle is actually from Horia. It's smooth with no screwable cap.
    • I am puzzled by something a snipped out something from your image and what exactly disassemble tell us? my confusion is the symbol for FHF looks like image I have below year symbol as a star and righted this instant are not finding what that means? I suppose we could use the fingerprint system to verify it really is what it claimed to be. Size itself is really interesting there's almost no watches in that particular size. Then were missing details in the photograph above like diameter of movements to verify it really is the size and are missing the setting components.   went to the bestfit book looking at the symbols didn't see it. Look at the link below I did find it back to the bestfit book and yes it really is there https://reference.grail-watch.com/documents/history-of-ebauches-sa/ then bestfit book says lists the size as 10 1/2. one of the problems with vintage watches is finding parts yes a donor watch would be good.
    • Actually, this could be the issue. Drag from the module could be overcoming the cannon pinion. It was definitely not at the point that the driving wheel was loose on the cannon pinion, it took a little bit of effort to rotate it when applying the grease. Maybe I need to look again at applying oil to the pivots.    Yeah, it's very annoying. I don't want to give up on it, so back on with it over again until I catch a break. 
×
×
  • Create New...