Jump to content

Date wheel spring for Certina 25-651

alexndr

By alexndr
in Watch Repairs Help & Advice

 Share

Recommended Posts

alexndr Member

alexndr

Posted
Posted

I've been poking around with a Certina cal. 25-651 for some time now. When putting the last piece together, the date wheel mechanism, I realized the date disc was not moving no matter how many times the hour hand went around. 

I started looking into the problem and soon realized the date wheel, 2556 had a broken spring. The "hook" on the spring was missing.

1606212208_0.jpg

Googling the problem revealed two things: a.) the spring is fragile and my problem is a common one with this calibre b.) The replacement part is hard to come by and expensive when found. 

I've been buying scrappers on eBay before to get around this issue but taking the watchmaking craftsmanship to the next step for me would be to start manufacturing my own replacement parts. I like the idea of this since I think it's the only viable way for watchmakers working with vintage watches when more and more replacement parts, no longer in production, are sold out. 

I've managed to take the wheel apart using the staking set. Next thing would be to create this tiny spring. Where should I start. I have parts of it left (as seen below) and I think I can find pictures of it online, good enough to understand how it should be shaped. 

1606212244_9.jpg

I need to measure the dimensions of the material used in the original spring. Not sure it's necessary to get it correct on a micrometer level but it must be pretty much the same to fit in the frame on the wheel.

Some questions ..

1. Where can I get hold of material used for the new spring. I'm a regular customer at CousinsUK so i prefer to buy from there if possible. Other sellers with inside of the European union will do :). 

2. What tools are preferred when shaping the spring? Tweezers and pliers? Something more delicate? 

 

Thanks! 

 

/Alex

 

 

 

 

 

Cad101 Super WRT Addict

Cad101

Posted
Posted

Do you have a stash of old click springs of varying lengths and diameters a lot aren't tempered that much and are easily bent into shape I've made quite a few obscure springs that way.

alexndr Member

alexndr

Posted
  • Author
Posted

"Do you have a stash of old click springs of varying lengths and diameters a lot aren't tempered that much and are easily bent into shape I've made quite a few obscure springs that way."

That is one alternative I've been considering. A set of assorted click springs are pretty cheap to come by. 

Make sure you vote to stay in the European union. My purchases from cousinsuk.com are absolutely threatened a possible Brexit :). 

 

 

Cad101 Super WRT Addict

Cad101

Posted
Posted

Oh and I work with the spring I'm copying and the one I'm manipulating inside a clear thick plastic bag with a zip top and I work on the outside of the bag. There's nothing worse than nearly bending one into shape and it pinging away never to be seen again.:pulling-hair-out:

  • Like 1
sstakoff WRT Addict

sstakoff

Posted
Posted

Some time ago I purchased a small assortment of spring material - I believe it's a Bergeon assortment. They are probably still available. Chapter 15 of Donald deCarle's "Practical Watch Repairing" - available on Kindle - is devoted to making new parts. He walks you through an example of making a spring - heat treatments and all!!!

Screen Shot 2016-06-23 at 3.01.12 PM.png

  • 2 months later...
Henrique Member

Henrique

Posted
Posted

I have the same problem as mention by Alexndr.

The spring is mado out of copper (seems to me). The small dimensions put another question...what to use in order to shape the spring?

Did anyone solved this successfully?

BR

Henrique

  • 1 year later...
Josip New Member

Josip

Posted
Posted

I’ll bump this thread, because I’m also taking apart my 26-651, and it too has a a broken date change.

 

Did you have any luck making the spring yourself?

 

I have tried googling, but haven’t managed to get a good understanding of what it should look like, and how it should be mounted. High resolution images, and tips on solutions would be greatly appreciated! [emoji4]

 

537486165.175965public.thumb.JPG.c6468b7579d564f4a6dac4b2acae6771.JPG

 

537486171.458254public.thumb.JPG.9a8fb3723eca4446f715facaac8f303d.JPG

 

 

 

rogart63 Distinguished Member

rogart63

Posted
Posted (edited)

That is a real pain in the behind spring. Have broken 2 of those. Lucky to have a spare that time . But no longer. They are hard to find. Seen those that have tried to repair them. But never seen a good repair. Heard that a hairspring or mainspring could work. Somewhere here i think i have a bent one. Think it's bent like a triangel and only one side is attached to the wheel. Can see if i find it and take a picture. 

Edited by rogart63
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Similar Content

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • TimeWerks
      Omega sweep second pinion friction spring - correct tension IS important

      By TimeWerks · Posted

      Thanks for this post MikePilk, I just came across a similar problem with an Omega 1022.  The problem I had was the seconds pinion spring was bent out of shape and did not even engage with the wheel properly, so the seconds hand was not moving at all. (no power loss though :) I removed the automatic module so I could access the spring and work on it. Once I bent it back close to the right shape, I experienced the same problem you reported about power loss.  Many tweaks later, and the seconds hand is moving properly again, with amplitude back to good numbers again. Cheers
    • caseback
      Clock newbie

      By caseback · Posted

      After cleaning up the pivots, I made bushes on the lathe. At this point I've pressed in 6 bushes (3 sets) and the wheels turn smooth. What I can also tell you, is that I'm not looking forward to final assembly. Getting the pivots aligned seems to get exponentially more difficult with each wheel that is added.
    • JohnR725
      Greetings from Whidbey Island.

      By JohnR725 · Posted

      Islands are interesting places to live depending upon their size and other factors. This is a bigger island and it has a bridge to get there at least on one end. It's also big enough that you don't have to go someplace else to get things typically. It can be a problem if you get a job in Seattle though. Yes I've known of people who commuted from the island to Seattle for a job and I don't quite remember how many hours it took but it took a long time. So basically islands are nice if you don't have to leave very often.
    • VWatchie
      What's your thoughts on this Rolex Sea-Dweller, ref. 16600, calibre 3135 project?

      By VWatchie · Posted

      Thanks @JohnR725! Everything you say makes a lot of sense and is encouraging to read.
    • JohnR725
      What's your thoughts on this Rolex Sea-Dweller, ref. 16600, calibre 3135 project?

      By JohnR725 · Posted

      isn't it nice to have a decent case open or when the case doesn't want to be opened? In the case of a Rolex watch that supposed to pass specific water resistant testing you probably do need to tighten the back down. But they shouldn't be tightened so much that they risk stripping the threads out. Then the other problem that comes up is the gaskets can start to disintegrate and then getting the back off can be quite a challenge unless you have a really good tool and perhaps some penetrating oil to loosen things up. Yes really nice case marking. When I was in school we were taught to mark the cases and  the American watch and clockmakers Institute even had a? So if you joined at one time they would give you an identification number. They were explaining or giving an example of if the watches ever found in you have a unique number they can perhaps figure out the history of the watch or identify the body it's attached to for instance not that that probably comes up that often. So you got a unique number and even made a special metal stamp that you can purchase. It wasn't a super big aggressive stamp but still it left a mark in the back of the case. Then I heard from people at work on Rolex watches they were using a felt pen indelible but later on they decided that was bad because apparently the ink could release  chemicals although it seems like once it's dry that shouldn't be an issue. Then of course today was nice is you can keep computer records sealed have to mark anything at all I personally find it's best to leave no reference behind that you were even there. Especially when you have a beautiful watch that has no markings at all and now it has your scribbling all over it not good typically if there is a typical and watch repair?  a lot of minor repairs you don't need to do a complete servicing. But beyond a certain point you're going to have to take apart a lot of stuff you're going to disrupt the lubrication even if it looks perfect right now and yes you might as well just go ahead the service the whole thing. also in a watch like this where a lot of things seem to be going on the complete service would be better then you'll know exactly where you stand versus dealing with unknown mysteries for prior repair.
×
×
  • Create New...