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  1. To follow up .. At first I had a hard time disassembling the wheel from the shaft. I have no Platax (yet). However I have the simple Bergeron 2810 roller remover and supprisingly it did the job. With just a small pinch at the right place the wheel popped off. Next problem was to tighten it. The tools I have for tightening ordinary cannon pinions were to blunt. Finally I used the 2810 for tightening as well with a small broach inserted in the hole. Unfortunately I pinched it too hard and when the wheel was reinstalled on the shaft it wouldn't budge at all. I bought a brand new frinction pinion instead. 5£ well spent.
  2. So I need to take it apart? Hm, I skipped this step during the service cause I lack the tools required. I will try to improvise .. A follow up question. This will require me to disassemble a lot the movement that I have already oiled. As professionals, would you recommend start everything over? Clean pivot holes again etc. I guess oils in jewel holes will be misplaced if I remove the bridges for instance ..
  3. I have been struggling with a AS 1713 for quite some while (an automatic version of calibre AS 1900 that Mark has done an excellent video service guide for). I've already got some good input here on how to clean the caped jewels for the upper bridge of the automatic device. Thanks for that. Next problem; Second hand is ticking nicely and timegrapher is giving an acceptable reading, but minute and hour hands are not moving. A classical lose canon pinion one might think. This calibre is a little different though. The canon pinion is not friction fitted, instead there's a friction pinion fitted to the third wheel as explained roughly 5:07 into Marks video: Any ideas on how to tackle this? Should I tighten the friction pinion is the same way as I would do with the canon pinion? Or is the springed minute wheel responsible for giving the pinion some extra friction on the pivot of the third wheel?
  4. For the last weeks I have I tried soaking the bridge in degreaser and isopropanol for some time and then using compressed air to blow it clean. No luck. However, recently I bought an Elmasolvex SE and yesterday I received my Elma cleaning fluids. After one clean/rinse/dry- cycle both holes are spotless. God bless German quality machines :).
  5. Found this thread: http://forums.watchuseek.com/f6/1900-cap-jewels-785993.html#/topics/785993?page=1&_k=7ppnh5 in there it is suggested that they simply can't be disassembled.
  6. Got my Calypso last week. Feels like a solid piece of machinery. Thanks for your input.
  7. No, I can't see any but they might still be there.
  8. Hard to get good photos but it seems that there are no slots for lyre springs. Cap and bezel is in level so if it's a "screw fit" that would require some special tool (like the H- shaped screw driver suggested). I tried to turn it carefully with some dull tweezers but it wouldn't budge.
  9. Struck me as well. The movement has definitely been serviced before. Some one has managed to mess up the crown wheel screw (it's left threaded, or at least it has been). Praying to higher instances that the bridge threading is not totally useless and that a new screw will do. I'll do it tonight.
  10. Thanks for chippin' in guys! Sorry. You're right. It should be AS 1713. To late to edit the original post. I'm using an LCD USB microscope (https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/benchtop-digital?code=M39115). I had handheld versions of this before but it was not that practical to work with (required USB wiring to a laptop). The LCD screen is not great but it works. It has an SD memory card slot so it's easy to take photos and transfer to your computer. There is a lag between the optics and the screen so it's not possible to replace the loupe with it but for situations like this, it's awesome. That crossed my mind as well. I cleaned it in an Ultrasonic machine and rinsed with IPA. My ways of working for drying the parts has room for improvements since I have nothing more than a dust blower at hand. I'll try air, or maybe heat, to dry it out.
  11. Threaded? Hmm, maybe. There are some circular scratches around the bezel that could indicate it has been unscrewed with a screwdriver before? That would however require the bezel to be raised above the jewel (or some special tool to unscrew it). I can try to get a picture from a different angle of it.
  12. Yes, the slots are probably important for the disassembly somehow. I'll back of the staking tool for now
  13. Hi guys and girls! I have recently dug into a AS1730- movement. While putting the automatic winding assembly together I noticed that the bridge had two capped jewel holes. Looking at them through a microscope (pictures attached) one can clearly see that there are some fluid residing between the jewels and the caps. Probably fluid left from the cleaning? Now I need to know how to pop the assembly open to remove this fluid. Maybe I can push the entire assembly out with the staking tool or something, hoping for it to come apart?
  14. The only Italian equipment I've ever owned is a Lapavoni Espresso machine. It's been serving me thousands of espressos and cappuccinos and it's a solid piece of machinery with very few problems over the years. Let's hope I will be equally satisfied with the Calypso tester :).
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