Jump to content

Regulating A Watch Using An Android Tablet


Recommended Posts

Here, I'm regulation a Seiko SKXA35 Diver. The trick is to first adjust the beat error as needed to make sure the back arm of the Palate for is in the center of the two banking posts/pins. This ensures that the palate fork evenly releases and grabs the Escapement wheel (the ticking sound you hear in an automatic watch. The program I use is Tickoprint, which is a tab version of a Timegrapher tool. Once you have the beat error accurate, you then nudge the Hairspring adjustment leaver left or right depending whether you need to speed up or slow down the watch. Tightening the Hairspring will speed up the watch and Loosening it will slow the watch down. Note that before you adjust the beat error you can see what adjusting the speed does to the beat error as well. Some times the beat error will correct when you adjust the Hairspring tension. Another note, do not touch the Hairspring at all when adjusting the watch...not good. As well, I find the the blade of a screwdriver does a better job than a toothpick for extremely small adjustments. Finally, you can only test along one axis the way I have shown, which should be good enough. However, if you really want to assess the true accuracy of your watch, you would need to adjust and test along 5 different positions. I, however, would say 3 positions (face up, face down and sideways) will result in you not missing any meetings. If you have any questions, please ask.

https://youtu.be/aFNAT9835K4

From Canada

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Here, I'm regulation a Seiko SKXA35 Diver. The trick is to first adjust the beat error as needed to make sure the back arm of the Palate for is in the center of the two banking posts/pins. This ensures that the palate fork evenly releases and grabs the Escapement wheel (the ticking sound you hear in an automatic watch. The program I use is Tickoprint, which is a tab version of a Timegrapher tool. Once you have the beat error accurate, you then nudge the Hairspring adjustment leaver left or right depending whether you need to speed up or slow down the watch. Tightening the Hairspring will speed up the watch and Loosening it will slow the watch down. Note that before you adjust the beat error you can see what adjusting the speed does to the beat error as well. Some times the beat error will correct when you adjust the Hairspring tension. Another note, do not touch the Hairspring at all when adjusting the watch...not good. As well, I find the the blade of a screwdriver does a better job than a toothpick for extremely small adjustments. Finally, you can only test along one axis the way I have shown, which should be good enough. However, if you really want to assess the true accuracy of your watch, you would need to adjust and test along 5 different positions. I, however, would say 3 positions (face up, face down and sideways) will result in you not missing any meetings. If you have any questions, please ask.

https://youtu.be/aFNAT9835K4

From Canada

Please ignore any spelling or crazy word errors, tab auto correct was on:) Palate Fork not Palate For

From Canada

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Here's an app that I find very useful for checking timepieces that don't work well with my timegrapher. Clocks, pocket watches and the wrist watches can be checked using this. The graphical representation is good for showing up cyclic issues as well just timing accuracy that is compared against atomic time.

post-124-0-49829600-1458602822_thumb.jpe

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Here's an app that I find very useful for checking timepieces that don't work well with my timegrapher. Clocks, pocket watches and the wrist watches can be checked using this. The graphical representation is good for showing up cyclic issues as well just timing accuracy that is compared against atomic time.

attachicon.gifimage.jpeg

Hey thanks Geo. I will check this one out. Would be good to do an actual longer term comparison

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 3/25/2016 at 8:21 PM, jdrichard said:

I am having a jig made to hold the watch for regulating and to be able to deal with 4 positions. It will be machined from aluminum with a stand and a movable holder with an imbedded mic

How much that will cost? A standard timegrapher microphone supporting any position is $95.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

How much that will cost? A standard timegrapher microphone supporting any position is $95.

I actually use a mic from some ear buds. This works very well. All you meet is three positions and you can rubber band the mic to the back of the watch and simply position the movement. Cut the ear bud wire off after the mic and you are set23f3b7b76331523595dc16958640e5be.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 minute ago, jdrichard said:

I actually use a mic from some ear buds. This works very well. All you meet is three positions and you can rubber band the mic to the back of the watch and simply position the movement. 

Personally I like to regulate the watch dial down on the microphone stand itself. It places it in an ideal position, I can see in real time the effects and I don't to place or remove anything to test across positions, winding, etc,

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Personally I like to regulate the watch dial down on the microphone stand itself. It places it in an ideal position, I can see in real time the effects and I don't to place or remove anything to test across positions, winding, etc,

I'm actually having a jig made by a machinist. It will hold the mic in a grove and hold the movement down on the mic while it can be moved into various positions.

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Yes and no. I use Moebius 9501 synthetic grease and it is significantly runnier than the Moebius 9504 synthetic grease (and I assume Molykote DX) that I previously used. I haven't seen 9504 spread and it is in my opinion the best grease money can buy. However, my current method of cleaning doesn't remove it from the parts, so that's why I have decided to use the 9501 instead. I believe I read somewhere that Molykote DX too is difficult to clean off. Thinking about it, I'm pretty sure my 9501 grease which expired in June 2022 is runnier now than it was when it was new, but whether new or old it always needs to be stirred before use. So, that's why I treat the parts of the keyless works, cannon pinion, etc. with epilame. That was very thoughtful of you and something that had completely passed me by. Not sure what the epilame will do when it wears off in a non-oiled hole. Anyone?
    • Hi not found one either yet,  close relative is the 436 and 4361 according to ranff.db.   It gives quire a lot of detail but not as good as the old site.      RANFF.DB.
    • No problem to replace the setting with the staking set. Press the new setting from inside, use flat face punch with hole. The punch must be wider than the setting, the hole to be as not to press at the stone, but only on the bush. Press by hand until the setting gets flush with the plate surface, so the punch must rest on it.
    • Yes, the arbor usually makes about 3 to 3.5 turns. But usually spring takes 2/3 to 3/4 of the free space in barrel, not 1/2, so take it for the calcullations. This way the change in torque is smaller. I have a picture for You, this one is little older, but no mater
    • I overhauled a ladies Rolex and noticed erratic performance so I stripped in down again and did fault finding. This is what I saw. The lower jewel (the one in the plate) is cracked and the hole is too big. Before discovering this, I stripped down and re-cleaned the main-plate (and parts) by hand with a fine natural fiber brush. I somehow missed the fault the first time and cannot understand how it was still running. Perhaps re-cleaning it dislodged some pieces of the jewel widening the hole? I don't know. Now I need to replace the jewel but don't have a Seitz tool. The Rolex part is 2130-0913 and the top and bottom are the same. The part comes complete in brass setting with KIF elastor spring and cap jewel. Note: I have never replaced a jewel. I do have a good vintage stacking set that I've used quite a bit.  Can I replace using a stacking set? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.  
×
×
  • Create New...