Jump to content

Another Minor Swiss Make - Borea


WillFly

Recommended Posts

I'm still snapping up (where I can) little-known Swiss wristwatches for a low price. This one, at £19, was a bit more than some of the more recent makes, but it arrived this morning and looks very good - keeping spot on time when compared with my Seiko Solar. When I wound it, the click sounded incredibly loud and positive. When I got the back off, I found out why! Never seen a click like that before...

 

I like expensive "name" watches as much as the next man - but these little-known brands are fun, cheap to get and remarkably good value, in many cases, for their price. This little bit of fun rejoices in having 1 jewel!

 

Borea%20face.JPG

 

Borea%20movement.JPG

Edited by WillFly
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Your're very much like me it would appear, you see something a little bit different and you go for it.

You say this one has only one jewel! Surely there it has two, is there not another one on the other end of the balance staff?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Your're very much like me it would appear, you see something a little bit different and you go for it.

You say this one has only one jewel! Surely there it has two, is there not another one on the other end of the balance staff?

 

Your guess is as good as mine - the movement says quite clearly "One jewel, Unadjusted"! But, yes, you would have thought that the balance staff would have one each end... I've seen one or two old watches marked "One jewel", and never understood where it might be.

Edited by WillFly
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Typically these 1 jewellers are pin lever movements and the solitary gem is the balance cap jewel on the balance cock. The cap at the other end of the balance staff is a hardened steel plate, and all of the pivots run in plain bearings.

The rationale behind the use of a jewel in this particular location is that most of the time that the watch is not on the wrist it's likely to be sitting dial up (on the bedside table etc), with the balance staff vertical and spinning on the jewelled cap, with wear concentrated at that point. With the watch on the wrist its orientation is constantly changing and so wear is more evenly distributed. If steel were used for this bearing then the staff could effectively drill its way through.

That being said, Timex do seem to have solved the problem with their zero jewel "V-conic" escapements which just keep going with minimal, if indeed any, maintenance.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks Marc - that makes sense to me. I've just checked the time of this movement - wound at 9am this morning, and it's now nearly 10.30pm - and it's right to within a few seconds of my Seiko Solar. How long it remains that way, only Time will tell... :crazysmile:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I have read some suggestions that it can cause wear , particularly on the fork horns of a fully treated pallet fork. I've had half a kilo of steriac acid powder on a shelf for almost a year now, might have a little play today with a heater and a jar. 
    • As I'm only cleaning watches in small numbers at home, I pre-clean any significant deposits of old grease and oil before using the cleaning solutions. I scrape off deposits with pegwood and Rodico, and if really dirty, wash parts in naphtha with a brush.  So I'm happy using DX, but can understand why it's avoided by the pros.
    • I think attaching a nut to the lid to pull it off is the least destructive, any damage damage on the outside is going to an easier fix than any created when trying to push it out from the inside. Scratching up the inside of the lid , mainspring or arbor bearing will be risk. Just my opinion.
    • yes the things we read in the universe I did see some where it was either difficult to clean off or it contaminated the cleaning fluid there was some issue with cleaning. I was trying to remember something about grease where as opposed to a substance of a specific consistency they were suggesting it had a base oil with something to thicken it. That conceivably could indicate that the two could separate and that would be an issue. But there is something else going on here that I had remembered so I have a link below and the description of the 9501 notice the word that I highlighted? Notice that word appears quite a bit on this particular page like 9415 has that property all so they 8200 mainspring grease and that definitely has to be mixed up when you go to use it because it definitely separates. just in case you didn't remember that nifty word there is a Wikipedia entry. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thixotropy   https://www.moebius-lubricants.ch/en/products/greases I wonder if what you're seeing is the boron nitride left behind after cleaning. In other words it's the high-pressure part of the grease and it's probably embedding itself into the metal which is why it doesn't clean off and shouldn't be a problem?
    • Yes and no. I use Moebius 9501 synthetic grease and it is significantly runnier than the Moebius 9504 synthetic grease (and I assume Molykote DX) that I previously used. I haven't seen 9504 spread and it is in my opinion the best grease money can buy. However, my current method of cleaning doesn't remove it from the parts, so that's why I have decided to use the 9501 instead. I believe I read somewhere that Molykote DX too is difficult to clean off. Thinking about it, I'm pretty sure my 9501 grease which expired in June 2022 is runnier now than it was when it was new, but whether new or old it always needs to be stirred before use. So, that's why I treat the parts of the keyless works, cannon pinion, etc. with epilame. That was very thoughtful of you and something that had completely passed me by. Not sure what the epilame will do when it wears off in a non-oiled hole. Anyone?
×
×
  • Create New...