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Seiko 7009A-3041


Alienfox

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According to all the tech-manuals the correct glass in the one in the photo, I am now beginning to think that the rubber gasket is not original and because the original glass exploded on removal I have no idea what size goes with the gasket, i did however buy 30.0, 30.5 crystals just in case.

I will try the smaller one tonight and see if it fits.

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1 hour ago, jdrichard said:

Does the technical manual for this watch not quote the crystal sizing? Or is that obvious

There is no "technical manuals" for Seiko watches, only for movements and some casing guides. To replace a glass all what is needed is to take a correct measurement. If the glass is a flat one it's not needed to order a specific, generic will do fine. 

Quote

According to boley the crystal part # (Based on the details on the caseback) is 310W17LN00.
HOWEVER as one caseback fits LOTS of different cases, this might not be correct info.

No. Seiko number on the back refer to the complete case, not just the caseback. Any part for a given case number will fit any watch carrying it, with possible variations in color or finishing.

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1 hour ago, Alienfox said:

According to all the tech-manuals the correct glass in the one in the photo, I am now beginning to think that the rubber gasket is not original and because the original glass exploded on removal I have no idea what size goes with the gasket, i did however buy 30.0, 30.5 crystals just in case.

I will try the smaller one tonight and see if it fits.

You need  order the correct glass in increments of ONE tenth of mm. not FIVE tenth. With these, the glass  fill not fit unless a you lucky (one chance in five). If you order from Cousins there is also a set of glass + I gasket to make things easier. 

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No. Seiko number on the back refer to the complete case, not just the caseback. Any part for a given case number will fit any watch carrying it, with possible variations in color or finishing.

Exactly!

As I said, the caseback on his watch MAY have come from a different watch with a completely different case.

eg I have 6309-523a (TV Case) but it came with the caseback from a round case.

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Just now, ro63rto said:

Exactly!

As I said, the caseback on his watch MAY have come from a different watch with a completely different case.

eg I have 6309-523a (TV Case) but it came with the caseback from a round case.

Sorry I misunderstood what you wrote.

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7 hours ago, bobm12 said:

That's exactly the problem! Therefore, measurements are your best bet.

OK, so what and where from am I measuring? I am now confused as I thought I had measured the case correctly?

Den

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Maybe you measured it correctly Alienfox, I'm not saying you didn't. It just doesn't add up to be breaking so many crystals. It is either the wrong size or the wrong technique (includes selection of dies too). I'm inclined to think it is the wrong crystal considering the case back number may point to another case since most Seiko case backs are interchangeable as it has been previously pointed out.

Are you supporting the back of the watch on the press by the metal of the case, exterior of the opening? Is it stable? The bottom die should be same size or bigger than the top. Hopefully the same or a little bit bigger though. It doesn't matter if it is flat or concave as long as it fits the bottom and supports the case properly. Without the case back on, a flat die may do the trick at the bottom...

Check my previous post where I indicated and explained the measurements to be taken (the main ones) and a little bit of everything else (I edited your picture in that post!). Note that if the gasket fits and is still useable, for now, you can reuse it although it is not best practice. If this is not a good thing because of accurate measurements (and that's why we always order sizes above and below actual physical measurements), you can order the complete "combo" if available which includes both the crystal and the PROPER (shape of gasket) gasket.

Bottom line, this is a short journey which will give you experience and touch...presses need that. Also, 2 mm crystals are not that easy to break.

Cheers,

Bob

PS. Some Seiko cases need the bezel to be removed to fit the appropriate crystal because they go over the crystal as pointed out in my older post. That means the crystal will be a little larger because it fits in a larger opening under the bezel...in that case, (check out the casing diagram for the 4205, uses a retaining ring) the crystal has a "step" around the edge or the bezel is a little different (usually a sport/diver model, more beefed up). None of this should apply to your case (both meaning situation and actual case you are working on) but you need to make sure of this.

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I just had a look at the case again, I am now unsure about the way to fit the crystal.  I notice the top of case looks like it should come off, lay the crystal with the rubber inside the replace the bezel?

image.jpeg

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Sure, why not, some of those may be made like that...I wouldn't know without examining the actual case. Sometimes a picture could be misleading, but is the best thing we have so far! Now, in that type of case, the "bezel" could be another piece using a gasket to seal it in place when properly seated with a press...

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This is what Jules Borel has to offer for your case .

 

 

Screen shot 2016-03-30 at 7.50.51 AM.png

I just had a look at the case again, I am now unsure about the way to fit the crystal.  I notice the top of case looks like it should come off, lay the crystal with the rubber inside the replace the bezel?

image.jpeg

If you look at the image posted by ricardopalamino above, it lists two different coloured bezels so your assumption may very well be correct.

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3 hours ago, Alienfox said:

I just had a look at the case again, I am now unsure about the way to fit the crystal.  I notice the top of case looks like it should come off, lay the crystal with the rubber inside the replace the bezel?

On Seiko 5s the bezel is not meant to be removed after manufacture. It is presses in with a very tight interference. If crystal and gasket are the right size you should have no problem fitting, otherwise it will never be perfect.

Edited by jdm
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On Seiko 5s the bezel is not meant to be removed after manufacture. It is presses in with a very tight interference. If crystal and gasket are the right size you should have no problem fitting, otherwise it will never be perfect.

Not strictly true.

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If your caseback belongs to the watch, which it looks like from the pics gleaned from Google then the [F] construction mark means there should be a tiny notch in the bezel joint. This allows you to insert a suitable tool to remove it.

Have a look and report back.

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8 minutes ago, ro63rto said:

 

If your caseback belongs to the watch, which it looks like from the pics gleaned from Google then the [F] construction mark means there should be a tiny notch in the bezel joint. This allows you to insert a suitable tool to remove it.

Removing the bezel is not needed to replace a glass on a Seiko 5 like that.

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I do not see a glass fixing ring in this picture and still believe the glass goes in from the top just like it came out.

watch.jpg

The OP will be able to confirm either way.

 

Only going by the Seiko Case Servicing Guide.

This is becoming quite interesting. [emoji2]

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3 minutes ago, ro63rto said:

Only going by the Seiko Case Servicing Guide.

This is becoming quite interesting. emoji2.png

And not even a "glass fixing ring" part in the Borel database posted above. I think the casing guide you posted doesn't apply, it is for more sophisticated models, not Seiko 5.

Edited by jdm
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"On Seiko 5s the bezel is not meant to be removed after manufacture." 

"Removing the bezel is not needed to replace a glass on a Seiko 5 like that."

 

I have don't really want to get into a debate on this issue , but I have to agree with ro63rto on this point .  The Seiko 5 reference has to do with the movement , but many particular Seiko movements come in several case variations . I, for one , have never heard that info about the Seiko 5's , but would be interested to learn more about it .

I am also am curious to know if there is a tiny notch in the bezel to case joint , which would be a clue on how to proceed . 

I have almost convinced myself that the case back 7xxx - 3041 number is incorrect for this actual case . Possibly changed at some time ,  since the crystal that suits this number seems to be a larger diameter then the measurements taken off of the case . 

I will assume that when Alienfox tried to tap out the old crystal and it shattered into 1000 pieces that it was indeed a mineral glass crystal and not an acrylic one . 

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I think I may have opened up a can of worms here?  OK, the bezel does not have a  notch, so I can assume that the bezel does not pop off, I am now beginning ti think that I have a FrankenSeiko, or a Bitsa? Either way I am now spending more time and money on a watch than it's worth,  I only paid a few pounds for it.

I will say this, being new to horology I have found it really interesting and have learnt a lot from this experience and all your replies to this post, I have now decided to look for a new case with a good glass as it seems the quickest and cheapest way out, the movement works very well and is keeping excellent time so happy with the job I did there, as it did not work at all when I got it.

Thanks to everyone for there help.  Den

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I suggest you don't give up on this watch yet especially if it's working. Nothing indicates that is a Franken, look a similar one again with the squared pattern on the dial but white

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Seiko-5-7009-3040-automatic-mens-watch-serviced-runs-perfect-from-EU-/172129945912

Since it has regular lugs it can take any strap and will look good. Regarding spending more than what's it worth, that's absolutely irrelevant in my opinion. You are spending to learn and to entertain yourself, and at any rate it will be a small fraction of what a school (if you can find one) would charge.

Maybe the problem is with the press and dies you are using.

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Quote

Regarding spending more than what's it worth, that's absolutely irrelevant in my opinion. You are spending to learn and to entertain yourself, and at any rate it will be a small fraction of what a school (if you can find one) would charge.

I think this is absolutely correct...otherwise it won't be a hobby! Cost vs. Knowledge vs. Skills, there is no contest! IMHO.

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