Jump to content

Hi new to forum and new to the hobby. Have begun to acquire tools. Have this Old Ebel watch wondering if anyone could tell me something about it. Age? Value? Movement?Thanks in advance.


Recommended Posts

Before asking for help it is normal to post an introduction and tell us a little about yourself.

There is no real value to that watch. People that collect Ebel might show an interest. I would say its from the 1950's.

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi welcome to the forum.  Like Richard said we need pictures of the movement. The name on the dial is not nesscesarily the maker. Under the balance or on the plates there may be other marks which help. Pictures of the watch front and back less dial and hands make the job easier.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 hours ago, MicWar said:

Ebel watch. Currently not running. 

20240228_022305.jpg

20240228_022122.jpg

20240228_022314.jpg

20240228_022751.jpg

20240228_022750.jpg

20240228_010644.jpg

20240228_022121.jpg

20240228_010646.jpg

You seem to have posted 8 pictures the same, each one tells no more than the previous except what trousers 👖 you are wearing 😉. Ebel was one of the brands used by the British MOD during WW2 ( ATP ) this looks military ? so it should have something decent inside.But we wont know that unless we can see it, this brand doesn't come up too often so will be interesting to see. The movement will give a date range to it's age, value is usually estimated,  its only worth what one/some  want to pay for it. Crack it open .

  • Like 3
  • Thanks 1
  • Haha 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

6 hours ago, MicWar said:

20240311_205835.thumb.jpg.d169cca86b67dd2a2f99328f7044b1cd.jpg20240311_205851.thumb.jpg.a20c847b4d9d2da3435f6ec3f2847411.jpg

20240311_205833.jpg

20240311_210112.jpg

20240311_210118.jpg

20240311_210114.jpg

The 99 cal was in the Ebel ATP and a black face dial model was made though the one you have isn't recognised. The case is not of the usual military style which would look heavier,nor the hands but these may have been changed at some time in its life and there are always exceptions to expected designs. The caseback may shed more light with markings and militaries are generally of a screwback with good water resistance of the time.

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • @Jon The link is no longer working and I wanted to see that demonstration again. Is there any chance you can make it available again? I'd appreciate it!
    • Or, if you have a staking set or jewelling too, just use one of the stumps. You can choose a fine tip to fit inside a jewel if necessary.
    • Good morning,   To be honest, I'm not sure I trust my own logic anymore 😅. But here's a picture of my own (failed!) attempt to install a new rotor axle. I punched way to hard and even split the metal of the rotor. My thinking was that, in my case, the axle sits "deeper" in the rotor and hence the rotor would be closer to the movement plates. Vice versa, I was thinking that a very light punch could cause the rotor to sit rather high. But not sure that makes sense because in both cases, the flat part of the axle and the rotor align equally.     Sorry, but is he saying that the outside of the caseback has been polished to such an extent that the inside of the caseback has deformed/sunk??? That sounds crazy to me because those casebacks are thick! Can you see any signs of that on the inside of the caseback? Have you tried screwing in the caseback a litte bit more or less so that the supposedly "sunk" part of the caseback would move from 9 o'clock to e.g. 6/7 or 11/12 o'clock?  If the caseback is truly deformed, maybe it could be punched/pressed back into shape (e.g. with glass/caseback closing press).      I agree with your choice. But yea, Rolex makes it VERY hard for independent watchmakers to do a perfect job because we can't get (original) parts easily.      Your pictures aren't too bad. But still impossible to see if the rotor isn't perfectly flat. You'd have to look at it with your loupe, from the side (like the pictures), and turn the rotor to see if the gaps (with the automatic bridge plates) increase/decrease.     Finally... how is the up/down play of the rotor? To test, take a toothpick/pegwood and press on the small triangular side of the rotor next to the axle (NOT the big side where the weight is. But the opposite side.). Does that lift up the weight-side of the rotor? There can be some play, but it should really be minimal. If there's too much play, a new spring clip is the first thing to do. After that, one could play around with the jewels. This is too much:
    • could start a new sub-brand: Bergeon-Pro Worked for Apple phones! Ah they already beat me to it:  
    • Hello, those RR pocket watches are nice watches, there are still parts around...
×
×
  • Create New...