I'm new here and into watch/horology world as well. I recently tried to replace the dial on my 7750 watch.
1) Open the wathc case
2) removed rotor
3) removed stem (gentle push of remove stem pusher and pull the stem out)
4) removed the movement from the case
5) put movment to movement holder
6) removed hands
7) removed dial
8) put new dial
9) pressed the hands back, hovewer during setting it up I realized the movement is not running - even when I wind it up - it is solid/stable and not ticking at all..
Kind of out of ideas what can went wrong, the movement was functional correctly before..
I have a UG Tri-Compax from the 1950s or 60s (Calibre 281): The chronograph (centre) seconds hand can’t turn past 58.5 seconds and the whole watch stops ticking/working (nothing moving/turning in the movement). However, when the reset pusher (4 o’clock) is kept pressed, it enables the seconds hand and watch to move/tick again. The reset pusher is released when the chrono seconds hand reaches 60: the watch resumes ticking and the hands move until the chrono seconds hand reaches 58.5s again. The process is repeated.
It has been noticed that if the watch is held face down then the reset pusher “procedure” doesn’t always work (i.e. the watch does not resume ticking/moving). It’s usually necessary to turn the watch over and try to press the pusher a few times in order to make the seconds hands move again.
The 30-minute sub-dial at 3 o’clock has stopped working, too.
If the chrono is not activated, then the watch seems to run properly.
I wanted to share my restoration stories that I have done for a long time and thrown into my archive. First I discussed the Atomic Mars 71 Brand using Valjoux 7734.
As it was seen, scratch and dial is broken. To begin with, I tried to brush the Case as Brushed and make it the first day. If it is decorated, I polished and re-painted the indexes (with acrylic paint). I usually do this in three layers so that the paint is not deleted in a short time.
I replaced the case buttons and tubes with aftermarket buttons.
Since the condition of the dial was in very poor condition, I had it re-painted. The quality is not so good. In Turkey, unfortunately, not doing the job well.
Caliber 7734 (Valjoux) is a special and robust mechanism for me. With good maintenance and lubrication, you can reduce deflection values up to 3-4 seconds per day. I added a short timelapse video about it :)
As a result, such a result came before us.
I want to show you my lately restoration project. This time it was a Seiko 7015-8000 with blue dial. Watch came to me in very poor condition. As you can see on photos the case was scratchty, crystal was totaly tarnished with deep scratches. Everywhere was dirt, gunk and mud...yuck. Movement was running and stopping with very low amplitude. After opened the caseback I wasn't suprised - it looked like as case - dirt and signs of wear. Rotor was loose and fall out the case. When I take off the crystall I saw dial which had faded Seiko logo, some scratches and hands which lost their lume.
Next step was strip down the movement - everywhere dirt and dry old oil. Time to cleaning bath
Look at this - it's my temporary balance wheel stand - I suspect that from temporary it will be permanent. It does job well.
After cleaning it's time to assembly movement. Now it looks better - maybe not pristine but clean and shiny. New oil here and there and movement starts to run. Now it's time for bench testing before install it to the case.
Meanwhile I took care of the case, dial and hands. Case got some polishing work - not to much cause I didn't want to loose the sharpness of edges. That is effect:
Dial and hands got new lume - I am not perfect in this work but I still learn to do this. Additional the seconds hand was repainted to orange color. I didn't change the crystall but i just polished it with waterpaper and on the end polish paste. Effect suprissed me. Time for the pleasant work - putting this all pieces together into the watch.
How big was the original rubbed in jewel? The material there is minimal, generally you'd ream well oversize to get outside the "rub in" area so there's some substance for the friction fit, unless you have a jewel that's just a hair over original. The reamers can go oversized, we're talking 0.01mm friction fit, best to have plug gages to check (I know nobody has them) or go almost all the way and test.