Jump to content

Replacing clock mainspring


Recommended Posts

I just watched this video on YouTube. Scottie just bashed the spring into the barrel without cutting off the wire retainer, pre-oiling the mainspring and winding it into containment ring.

Is this an acceptable technique? One can't even be sure that the hole end of the new mainspring is properly engaged with the barrel hook.

  • Haha 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

This is my reply to this clown.

What a bloody shambles. Use the proper tool a clock mainspring winder. You should always measure the inside of the barrel for the correct height because the spring to be replaced might not be the correct one Why don't you use a bigger hammer you clown. You never cleaned the new spring or oiled it, no oil on the ends of the arbor. I have watched many of your videos and find faults with all. People what ever you do never ever follow what this fool shows you. He is a complete menace to clock makers. I have around 30 years experience working on high grade clocks. I wouldn't let him inside my workshop. I look forward to your reply, that's if you have to guts to do so.

  • Like 3
  • Haha 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

12 minutes ago, oldhippy said:

clown.

Doing my usual checking of unread conversations the word clown caught my eye.

7 hours ago, HectorLooi said:

Scottie just bashed the spring into the barrel without cutting off the wire retainer, pre-oiling the mainspring and winding it into containment ring.

It would really nice when you're pointing out what people are doing if you could give us an actual time of the amusement so I don't have the watch the entire video as I really don't like watching clock or watch repair videos for that matter.

Oh and then the video I didn't see how he got the old spring out? Probably really don't want to ask that question do I

20 minutes ago, oldhippy said:

Why don't you use a bigger hammer you clown.

 

7 hours ago, HectorLooi said:

Is this an acceptable technique? One can't even be sure that the hole end of the new mainspring is properly engaged with the barrel hook.

I was thinking hydraulic press that would be a better approach. Then as far as the hole in engaging with the barrel hook well I wouldn't worry about that at all.  The reason this is not a problem at all would be as the spring is going down it's probably going to catch on the hook going down and destroy it. This is why a hydraulic press would be so much nicer it would have way more force and you probably have the added bonus of destroying the end do your mainspring anyway as this is what you're trying to do is to destroy the mainspring and barrel with this method is it not?

7 hours ago, HectorLooi said:

Is this an acceptable technique

Regarding the question is this an acceptable technique well it is if you're on YouTube. But if you're not on YouTube and you're not a clown/idiot  then this is an extremely stupid thing that this person is doing and extremely stupid is an understatement. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The problem is that the youtube algorithm seems to like his videos, when I started my first clock, I only have a few under my belt (must do more), it was his videos that popped up first. Having some grounding in watchmaking I had a feeling something was 'off' and @oldhippy quickly confirmed this with his usual gusto 🙂 and gave sound advice saving me from making expansive and potentially dangerous mistakes (clock springs are scary!). I thought about commenting on his page, but then decided against it:

image.thumb.png.edd0db890ec542902d286ba9dc269669.png

 

  • Like 2
  • Haha 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I forgot to mention he was trying to fit a spring into a Smiths barrel I  recognised the factory markings inside the barrel and the barrel cap is different from the barrel. 

Edited by oldhippy
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

It's clear the spring was slamming against the hook when he was knocking on it. I wish he had tried to wind it up in the vid, I bet it didn't catch.

 

Also his homebrew cleaning solution he notes at the end- he adds oleic acid, which is a classical ingredient in a lot of commercial and homebrew solutions, but it has to be combined with a base to form a soap. In the Finnish recipe I use for clocks the base is ammonia, which is added until it has combined with all the oleic acid.

 

And finally--- Is it a requirement these days to wear black gloves for everything? From cooking to machining everywhere you look it's black gloves. 😂

Edited by nickelsilver
  • Like 2
  • Haha 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Even though I've worked on more than a dozen clocks, mainsprings still scare me.

Minimum safety equipment I would use are cut proof gloves and a face shield. I'm thinking of getting a pair of cut proof sleeves too.

Among the scariest things I've done was to remove a broken mainspring from a barrel. I pictured the jagged end of the mainspring flying out of the barrel and slitting the wrist or worse, the carotid artery. 😱

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, oldhippy said:

Just have a look at this from you know who. He would be more at home in a breakers yard. You can read my comments on youtube. 

 

Wow! That was painful to watch. I think he removed your comment, I don't see it. 

I think the hook must have broken off when he bashed the new spring in.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The comment is there. I've copied it in full.

Another bodged job. How can you file anything properly in a vice that moves about. Rubber jaws on the vice so it doesn't mark the barrel, that's a laugh considering your incompetence in being able to file correctly has left file marks on the barrel. The inside hook is protruding way to much inside that it will  be rubbing on the spring and causing wear. An apprentice in its first year would make a better job then you. Why are you wearing gloves when filing? is that so you don't pick your nose.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Nice to see I am not the only one that doesn’t like his videos, I would like to see him remove a 1000 day spring by hand, picture of torsion clock 400 day and 1000 day mainspring.

Dell

IMG_2404.jpeg.413278f28bb24f703d730503eef501c6.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Personally I would salvage the missing screws from some donor movement.  I also bought a random selection of screws "Assortment of Stainless Steel Watch Screws" for next to nothing.  As for using an Alum solution - I had great success with that removing a rusted stem from a stainless steel crown.  The best piece of advice I read on doing that was to keep the solution warm so that the reaction didn't take weeks!  I did it in a couple of hours with the solution in jam jar and the jam jar in a saucepan full of water which I left on an induction hob maintaining about 60C in the Alum solution.
    • I decided that it was time to tackle the piece that I'd set aside as my first project. The subject in question is a Gruen Veri-Thin pocket watch.  It winds and "runs".  On the time grapher, it has reasonable amplitude (240 or so depending on the position), but was loosing close to a minute a day.  The stem also has the annoying tendency to just come out when pulled, which makes it super hard to set the thing.  As with many things this one started sideways and just got more so.  I was able to overcome the mangled "tab" on the back case cover (a well placed, very sharp knife enabled me to get in when I couldn't get a purchase on the mangled tab with a case knife.)   I was then sort of shocked to find that one side of the dial was held down with some sort off tape or adhesive material as someone had broken the dial foot screw on that side and left the broken screw in the mail plate. The loose stem does in fact seem to have been a poorly tightened setting lever screw, but I'm afraid there may still be gremlins in the keyless works.  While I was able to get the stem to stay in by putting everything in the right place and tightening the setting lever screw (before I took it all apart for cleaning and inspection), it just didn't seem to all sit right. The final gremlin showed up when I was taking off the lower cap stones for the balance and escape wheel (yes the Gruen 380 seems to have a cape jewel on the escape wheel).  The balance stone came off fine (but that in fact is the smallest screw I've ever seen.  When I turned the movement around to get the one off the escape wheel setting, I found that the screw head had been mostly sheared off.  After some reading and looking at what I had, I decided to try and tease what was left of the screw out of the hole by nudging what was left with the corner of my smallest screwdriver.  After 20 minutes or so, I was able to get the remains of that screw out. The picture I'm including of the disassembled movement was taken before I got the second cap stone off, so in the picture, it's still attached to the main plate (for those looking carefully, you'll only see the one cap setting in the pic.) Now I'm left with: A broken dial screw inside the main plate that needs to come out A broken cap stone retention screw that I have in my parts tray, but that is strictly useless and needs to be replaced. The need to get another dial foot screw I'm contemplating solving the first problem by soaking the main plate in an alum solution.  I think the main plate is brass and shouldn't be affected, but I have not been able to confirm.  This seems like the easiest option as I can't really access both sides of the screw to use the pricey Bergeon tool (which I don't fancy buying unless I have to.) I have located a couple of donor movements and have questions out about whether or not the include the dial foot screw and prompting for pictures of the dial side so  evaluate the cap stone settings.  I've also found that a supplier in this country does have the cap stone settings, but isn't overly clear about whether the screws are included. Are these the types of things that one can scavenge out of assortments or is it best to just grab one of the donors assuming that they look like they have what I need?  
    • I visited this place last year just before they closed their counter service - amazing shop (filled from floor to ceiling!) and the guy that was working there was really knowledgeable and helpful!. Their website isn't as good as Cousins but I understand that if you fill out the contact form they have stuff that isn't on the site. https://gleave.london/mineral-flat-bottom-domed/
    • As always in this game the answer is “it depends “ because the first one worked out ok doesn’t mean all will. A case could be made in a way that it would not really matter much, sounds like your first example. However a case could also be made so that only a tension armoured crystal could be used. Generally you replace like for like to maintain the integrity of the watch.   Tom
    • When can you use a standard crystal to replace one that had a tension ring? The first time I popped a crystal with a tension ring out of a watch I found that I had a suitable sized standard crystal and decided to try that.  It fit nicely and it was hard to see that anything was missing from the watch.  I understand that it probably reduced the water resistance of the watch but since it was an old dress watch it wasn't going for a swim anyway! I have since tried the same thing on another watch and found that the tension ring seemed to have an additional role of holding the dial in place.  With the standard crystal in there the dial and movement falls forward. This means it rattles in the case and falls forward and the hands fowl on the crystal (when the dial is down). Is there a trick I am missing here or does this watch require a special crystal?  I am reluctant to buy an expensive armoured crystal only to find I have the same problem.  
×
×
  • Create New...