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I felt silly. Now I know I am

rossjackson01
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rossjackson01 Super WRT Addict

rossjackson01

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I felt silly. Now I know I am.

Working on an Enicar with AR77 movement. Get a spare. Sold as needs repair Back tight but 'ticks'. Photograph from seller showed 'chisel' marks on the back. Me thinks it has not been opened so I may get some good spares. Take a chance.

Can I repeat the title 'I felt silly. Now I know I am'.

Opened with care. Aaagh!

 

IMG_20240118_163113.jpg

IMG_20240118_163853.jpg

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Neverenoughwatches Distinguished Member

Neverenoughwatches

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9 minutes ago, rossjackson01 said:

I felt silly. Now I know I am.

Working on an Enicar with AR77 movement. Get a spare. Sold as needs repair Back tight but 'ticks'. Photograph from seller showed 'chisel' marks on the back. Me thinks it has not been opened so I may get some good spares. Take a chance.

Can I repeat the title 'I felt silly. Now I know I am'.

Opened with care. Aaagh!

 

IMG_20240118_163113.jpg

IMG_20240118_163853.jpg

Always a risk not seeing what is inside the watch.

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rossjackson01 Super WRT Addict

rossjackson01

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"Always a risk not seeing what is inside the watch."

Have to agree. However, it has taken me 3 hours to disassemble. 

Observations.

I was not the first.

Dial side. Dial and calendar = gunk every where. Looks like glue? It wasn't, but flakes everywhere. Scrap

WD40 on seized parts. Nearly everything.

3 seized screws broken heads. Barrel  bridge. Balance cock. Train bridge. Gentle easing on bridges and cock and they lifted past the head. Phew?

The balance spring is in superb condition. All parts appear in good condition. Amazing. All will be reusable after cleaning.

1. Broken part. Calendar quick jump lever. (Bummer, this is the part I needed). Spring for Calendar jump lever missing. (I've got one of these)

Really enjoyed this disassemble. No pings or damage on my part.

Video made of the whole thing. Not going to post it as I would have to learn how to re-edit. Been so long since I used the video software.

 

 

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mikepilk Distinguished Member

mikepilk

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My mantra, which I repeat over and over :  "never buy a watch unless you see pics of the movement"

(But I am guilty of not doing this on some cheap watches which seem OK. And yes, I have ended up with Mubai Specials 🤣)

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rehajm Super WRT Addict

rehajm

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2 hours ago, rossjackson01 said:

Really enjoyed this disassemble. No pings or damage on my part.

'That's not going to get better...'

Sorry mate. Good news is your attitude towards it is brilliant. I've over paid for a few unsalvageables, even after seeing the movement. Give it a 'permanent' home in a parts tray and you can pick away at it when you have only short time, you can find out what it needs instead of the bin, experiment with new techniques, discover you can save elements as your skills improve, etc. I have a waltham A-11 that was always a rusty 'parts' watch but with all the above it is a set of hands away from being a wearable timekeeper...keep at it...

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rossjackson01 Super WRT Addict

rossjackson01

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"Once cleaned, reassemble, bag,  label the calibre and all usable parts". 

Doing, as Richard and rehajm have suggested. Even going to try Nucejoe's Coca Cola clean. 

 

Just a note. The movement is an AR167, not AR77. Keypads pressed in error.

Regards to all.

Ross

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eccentric59 WRT Addict

eccentric59

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8 hours ago, rossjackson01 said:

Back tight but 'ticks'.

So what the seller is saying is that he returned home after a night of drinking and found he'd been bitten by tiny arachnids? They certainly weren't describing the watch. 🙄

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rossjackson01 Super WRT Addict

rossjackson01

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Really pleased with this project. Looks like it will clean well. 

On the main plate. The two screw threads need to be removed. Not sure I will use the plate, but will be a good exercise.

Looking at the photograph of the mainspring I did think it was a break, but in fact is was a substance from the calendar wheel. It is now removed. Phew.

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Waggy Distinguished Member

Waggy

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Sometimes it's good to challenge yourself just to see how far you have come. Looks like you will have a high percentage of useable parts that will come in handy some day for sure.

When I store parts like this I usually put them in a small sealable bag with a silica gel pad inside. You can get these on Amazon for a matter of pennies each and it's cheap insurance that the parts will be in good condition when you need them, see below.

For removing rust (iron oxides) I have found commercial rust remover works well eg evaporust or similar. And for verdigris (copper/brass corrosion product) I have good success with white vinegar from the food isle in the supermarket, you can also use any spare on your chips, but don't get them mixed up 🤮

I did a study at university on using coke to remove rust and used an electron microscope to see the after effects. The problem is that the acid in the coke attacks the steel indiscrimenently unlike the commercial rust products which are pH neutral and only react with the iron oxide. But I know some people have good success with coke or tea or...? So I don't mean to come off as saying they are wrong, I would just advise that anyone should just try the commercial stuff out and then compare to the coke etc and see what works best for you.

Screenshot_20240123-084339.thumb.png.e0869e77e7ef1bec0cb875d4d4510448.png

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