Jump to content

My father's Accurist watch ID ?

ianrichards
 Share

Recommended Posts

ianrichards Member

ianrichards

Posted
Posted

Good morning.

Fingers crossed you good folks will help me ID my father's Accurist watch.

It's history, long story short is ...

During WW2 my parents (both of whom were already married) had an affair and my mother gave Dad this watch that she bought second hand.

After the war they were both divorced and then remarried in 1952 (they took their time).

The watch was never very reliable despite being serviced at at some time the winder has come detatched.

I'm going to put this watch aside until my skills level is higher, so happy just to look at it and relish what it represents.

Thanks in advance.

Ian

IMG_6968.thumb.JPG.429d0005e60e713a248af337b20dfae7.JPGIMG_6979.thumb.JPG.ba820ee9e4fa32f30ca9918b4ca8b70e.JPG

Link to comment
Share on other sites
ianrichards Member

ianrichards

Posted
  • Author
Posted
2 hours ago, mikepilk said:

Can you see any lettering under the balance?

(BTW There looks to be a lot of flaking radium  from the dial and hands. So read the postings about the precautions you need to take before removing the movement)

Thanks for that.

All I can see is: 15

50 minutes ago, Nucejoe said:

Check AS1194 and its variants on Dr ranffts site.  

AS 1194 ranfft

We need a clear photo.

Rgds

 

 

Thanks, I've just had a quick look.

I'm afraid that is as clear a photo as I can take with my phone camera 😉

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Neverenoughwatches Distinguished Member

Neverenoughwatches

Posted
Posted
55 minutes ago, ianrichards said:

Thanks for that.

All I can see is: 15

Thanks, I've just had a quick look.

I'm afraid that is as clear a photo as I can take with my phone camera 😉

Check just under the balance wheel for a calibre number. Just had an Accurist As984 come through the post for parts for another watch's restoration. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites
ianrichards Member

ianrichards

Posted
  • Author
Posted
1 minute ago, Neverenoughwatches said:

Check just under the balance wheel for a calibre number. Just had an Accurist As984 come through the post for parts for another watch's restoration. 

When I know what I’m doing I’ll do that !

Going to cut my teeth on a Sekonda pocket watch first !

BTW Is securing the stem tricky ?

This is all a black art to me. 
I seem to remember years ago pulling the winder too much and it came out. 
Thanks

Ian

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Neverenoughwatches Distinguished Member

Neverenoughwatches

Posted
Posted
24 minutes ago, ianrichards said:

When I know what I’m doing I’ll do that !

Going to cut my teeth on a Sekonda pocket watch first !

BTW Is securing the stem tricky ?

This is all a black art to me. 
I seem to remember years ago pulling the winder too much and it came out. 
Thanks

Ian

You should be able to see the cal. no. without removing the balance, i will pop you a picture up later, of course there is no guarantee your watch is marked up jn the same way. Of course there is no guarantee with much in watch repair. Securing the stem ? That all depends on why it is not secure Ian, released with undue stress from its position or wrenched using excess force causing untold damage ?  Did i just say that for real 🙂

Link to comment
Share on other sites
ianrichards Member

ianrichards

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
11 minutes ago, Neverenoughwatches said:

You should be able to see the cal. no. without removing the balance, i will pop you a picture up later, of course there is no guarantee your watch is marked up jn the same way. Of course there is no guarantee with much in watch repair. Securing the stem ? That all depends on why it is not secure Ian, released with undue stress from its position or wrenched using excess force causing untold damage ?  Did i just say that for real 🙂

Mmmmm !

I seem to remember my father getting the stem mended and it being replaced with one that didn't quite fit.
I think it was always a case of carefully does it.

The stem looks complete and undamaged, I need to learn how it is retained.

Part of the problem is that it doesn't normally secure when reengaging after adjusting the time. The stem seems too short as the crown pushes against the casing.


I live and learn.
Thanks

Ian

Edited by ianrichards
Addition text added
Link to comment
Share on other sites
Neverenoughwatches Distinguished Member

Neverenoughwatches

Posted
Posted
18 minutes ago, ianrichards said:

Mmmmm !

I seem to remember my father getting the stem mended and it being replaced with one that didn't quite fit.
I think it was always a case of carefully does it.

The stem looks complete and undamaged, I need to learn how it is retained.

Part of the problem is that it doesn't normally secure when reengaging after adjusting the time. The stem seems too short as the crown pushes against the casing.


I live and learn.
Thanks

Ian

The stem is held in by what is known as a pull out piece, stem release bar and probably a few other names. In turn this bar is held in by a screw on the dial side. It could be that the previous repairer cut the stem short so it is not fully engaging the winding mechanism. Either way you will need to at least partly disassemble to fix it,  it will almost certainly need servicing, might be best waiting until you are more confident.  In the meantime lets identify what you have then you can get searching for a couple of donors to harvest spare parts from that you will need at some point, you then are at least prepared .

20231204_163301.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites
ianrichards Member

ianrichards

Posted
  • Author
Posted
3 minutes ago, Neverenoughwatches said:

The stem is held in by what is known as a pull out piece, stem release bar and probably a few other names. In turn this bar is held in by a screw on the dial side. It could be that the previous repairer cut the stem short so it is not fully engaging the winding mechanism. Either way you will need to at least partly disassemble to fix it,  it will almost certainly need servicing, might be best waiting until you are more confident.  In the meantime lets identify what you have then you can get searching for a couple of donors to harvest spare parts from that you will need at some point, you then are at least prepared .

20231204_163301.jpg

Excellent advice, much appreciated. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
ianrichards Member

ianrichards

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Just now, ianrichards said:

prepared .

20231204_163301.jpg

 

Just now, ianrichards said:

 

Thanks for the line drawing of the stem mechanism. I am now studying the pdf file by Wal Odets’ Glossary of watch parts and it’s starting to make sense. I love a challenge. I normally fettle steam engines so this is going to be somewhat “interesting” !

IMG_6019.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites
ianrichards Member

ianrichards

Posted
  • Author
Posted
9 minutes ago, Nucejoe said:

Resolution is good, insufficient light is the problem.  

Its either a AS or FHF. 

Thanks for that.

I'm using the advanced search function on the DR's database.
A very good way of learning the names of the individual parts and their variations.
No conclusive result yet ... could take a while.

Regards.

Ian

Link to comment
Share on other sites
JohnR725 Distinguished Member

JohnR725

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, Neverenoughwatches said:

pull out piece, stem release bar and probably a few other names.

how do curiosity where did you get that picture from? I don't think I've ever seen the definition of pullout piece.

let's go with a different picture a Swiss picture with bonus numbers? What are those bonus numbers under the old Swiss parts numbering system all the parts had numbers it's a lot easier to put a number on a tiny package than it is to write several dozen words in various languages to describe apart so everything went by a part numbering system. so you're looking at part 443 which like everything else in watch repair is multiple names but the Swiss typically like setting lever.

image.png.216cc843e63819b0e8ae32c64e0e946b.png

as you're learning terminology and how watches work how about a tech sheet they typically tell people to start with this watch and will snip out a image from the tech sheets show it shows how the key listen supposed all come together including the setting lever screw. What's interesting with the unified whatever it's called part numbering system screws are almost an afterthought notice the number is much much bigger than the rest of the numbers.

image.png.fdb211832be90bf807e0bd36eb362d41.png

2 hours ago, ianrichards said:

BTW Is securing the stem tricky ?

This is all a black art to me. 
I seem to remember years ago pulling the winder too much and it came out.

unfortunately as others are telling you it would help if you took the movement out of the case and took the dialogue so we can look at the keyless parts. The other reason for moving the dial is it helps to identify the watch and often times on older watches the identification numbers are found on the dial side not under the balance wheel as they typically found today

so normally your stem will not come out it's held in with the setting lever held down by the setting lever screw at least I assume that's what it's called an too lazy to look in the parts lists see what it's actually called. But a number of things can interfere with this like the screw comes unscrew the lever comes up the stem comes out. Or if you're really enthusiastic new poll hard enough you'll break something. Or rust if rust is gotten in there that will cause issues. another issue with windup watches wristwatches in particular is that the place where the stem goes into the main plate can actually wear out and open up. I've seen where for some watches they make what are called oversize stems from the stem is physically bigger to compensate for  that. But unfortunately everything is speculation until the dial comes off into a proper examination

then is looking at your photographs and notice how the movements not falling out? The screws holding the movement in her pulling the movement back against what exactly? Notice how the dial side appears to be much bigger than the backside? What I can't tell is whether the movement is attached to a movement ring and that means the entire movement ring comes out or whether your watch will go out the front of the case shall have to remove the crystal just can't tell from the pictures

the other thing which I'm not seeing in the discussion may be a just didn't read the fine print is approximately what do you think the diameter of the movement is? Because the problem with photographs are I can't tell if this is a little tiny ladies watch your bigger watch so we need a diameter size

ETA 6497-2 Technical Communication.pdf

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Neverenoughwatches Distinguished Member

Neverenoughwatches

Posted
Posted
2 minutes ago, ianrichards said:

Thanks for that.

I'm using the advanced search function on the DR's database.
A very good way of learning the names of the individual parts and their variations.
No conclusive result yet ... could take a while.

Regards.

Ian

There is another way and the watch is old enough to use that way, you will have to disassemble it though.

2 minutes ago, JohnR725 said:

how do curiosity where did you get that picture from? I don't think I've ever seen the definition of pullout piece.

Its a name that De carle used, its a bit vague to be honest.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
JohnR725 Distinguished Member

JohnR725

Posted
Posted
5 minutes ago, Neverenoughwatches said:

De carle used, its a bit vague to be honest.

even though I have several of his books I think of the best if you didn't reference the nomenclature anymore other then to have a laugh. Because I don't think I've ever seen references to the terms he is using. Plus if you look at the picture just before what exactly does he call the plates screws? this is why I think it's best to go with the Swiss terminology it forms somewhat of a standard perhaps.

 

1 hour ago, ianrichards said:

Phew, lot's to digest.

yes one of the minor problems of watch repair knowledge actually is required if you're to be successful. Which means you should do some studying.

5 hours ago, Nucejoe said:

AS 1194 ranfft

out of curiosity why did we rule out 1194?

then from the images on the website at the link below it also shows why taken the dial off is good because often times as it shows in the picture they mark the movement number on the dial side plus the amusement with this watch it actually exists in two different sizes and away

http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&0&2uswk&AS_1194

 

 

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
ianrichards Member

ianrichards

Posted
  • Author
Posted
28 minutes ago, JohnR725 said:

even though I have several of his books I think of the best if you didn't reference the nomenclature anymore other then to have a laugh. Because I don't think I've ever seen references to the terms he is using. Plus if you look at the picture just before what exactly does he call the plates screws? this is why I think it's best to go with the Swiss terminology it forms somewhat of a standard perhaps.

 

yes one of the minor problems of watch repair knowledge actually is required if you're to be successful. Which means you should do some studying.

out of curiosity why did we rule out 1194?

then from the images on the website at the link below it also shows why taken the dial off is good because often times as it shows in the picture they mark the movement number on the dial side plus the amusement with this watch it actually exists in two different sizes and away

http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&0&2uswk&AS_1194

 

 

 

Well, bearing in mind that I know nothing, I’ve put an arrow on what I’ve noticed is different. Is this relevant ?

IMG_7002.jpeg

IMG_6968.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Nucejoe Distinguished Member

Nucejoe

Posted
Posted
3 hours ago, ianrichards said:

No conclusive result yet ... could take a while.

The keyless is idenitification card of movements.

Aparently your watch needs a full disassembly, good clean and lube, so you will eventually get to the keyless.

Then we'll have to see why set lever doesn't lock onto the stem as the stem sometimes comes out.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • praezis
      New balance staff not riveting to balance

      By praezis · Posted

      I also see a bit of danger for the wheel, at least you have to keep away from it and may get a too thick rest ring. My rest rings are about 0.05 mm. Better way would be a grinding wheel touching the staff with its circumference. Frank
    • Neverenoughwatches
      Stem broken - can it be rescued?

      By Neverenoughwatches · Posted

      Not easy to find this one everywhere,  so it depends where you are located. Joining it back together might be possible, i have silver soldered mild steel before even with traditional plumbers lead and its a pretty strong joint, but bere in mind this is only 1mm diameter.  The join would need to be very accurate,  it not something i have heard of anyone trying before. The part no 401 is the swiss code number and relates to watch winding stems in general
    • Bonefixer
      AS2063 - hand setting

      By Bonefixer · Posted

      Thanks everyone for your helpful replies. I think between us we’ve worked out what’s going on. Next job is to have a proper look at this great wheel assembly, see if I can remove the clip and the friction fit pinion, give the bits a good clean, then put it back together with a bit of blue grease. I’ll also get the pallet fork under the microscope to see if it’s ok or been damaged. 
    • Mercurial
      AS2063 - hand setting

      By Mercurial · Posted

      The cannon pinion (be it conventional style or what you see in this movement) should slip on its arbour so the hands can be set independently without affecting the gear train.  If there is too much friction between the cannon pinion and the second wheel, turning the hands to set them backwards can sometimes force the escape wheel teeth to overrun the pallet stones, creating the behaviour you describe. The train is running in reverse when this happens.  This can often chip the pallet stones. I’d say at least half of the watches I’ve inspected with very tight cannon pinions had chipped pallet stones. Hopefully this isn’t the case with your watch.  I’m not familiar with this movement but you need to get the friction in the cannon pinion adjusted correctly.  Hope this helps, Mark
    • Bonefixer
      AS2063 - hand setting

      By Bonefixer · Posted

      Pallet fork was in. I’d had the movement running ok, and only removed the balance to flip it over and install the keyless works and date mechanism. The pallet fork wasn’t locking the gear train when hand setting - it was oscillating as the escape wheel rotated. This may have been in one direction only - can’t remember. 
×
×
  • Create New...