Jump to content

FHF identification help


Recommended Posts

It looks pretty old. Also I'm struggling to find anything by FHF that size, and with matching keyless works. It is a bit of an odd ball. 

http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&&2uswk&FHF_Robert_8

Quote

Remarks
FHF ran several factories in Fontainemelon, and one was named after the founders Fabrique Robert. The calibres produced there are recorded in few registers (pretty poor and contradictionary) under names like Font Robert, FF Robert, FHF Robert. Bestfit mentions the Gruen 103 as an FHF Robert 8.75''' downsized to 8'''. But the example here (from a Wilka Watch) demonstrates, that this size was available right from factory. Obviously the 8.75''' calibres Gruen 100, 101, 620...623, 626, 627 are also based on this calibre, and are accordingly listed here, but realiable informations can't be given here.

Swiss Patent 51482:
filed 05-03-1910, FHF, Fabrique d'Horlogerie de Fontainemelon (CH)
setting mechanism without setting-lever spring

Example, year: signature; shock device
ca. 1925: - 9686, +51482

That is also similar, but the keyless doesn't look right.

Edited by AndyHull
Link to comment
Share on other sites

35 minutes ago, lxt123 said:

I think that the serial number is 32746 on the barrel bridge.

118 calibre? 

 

18 minutes ago, mikepilk said:

I've just finished trying to identify some scrap movements I bought. I think this is an FHF 1146.

The keyless looks the same. Though it measures 23.3 mm

2.thumb.jpg.0efdf7c8050a8079f828388a1cea713c.jpg

1.thumb.jpg.4df628ed4399dd087e988e1e606a6cd8.jpg

In the flume catalogue i have the 1146 came in sizes 8 3/4'"   9 3/4'"   and 12'"

44 minutes ago, lxt123 said:

I think that the serial number is 32746 on the barrel bridge.

1180 ? The 80 accidently  double stamped

51 minutes ago, lxt123 said:

I think that the serial number is 32746 on the barrel bridge.

 

38 minutes ago, lxt123 said:

I'm trying to find a balance staff for it.

It looks identical with the FHF 1156 from Andy Hull, only that this is 15J. and 9-3/4 ligne.

I wonder if the staff will fit.

Do you have the staff to measure up ? Balance staff . Com list an fhf caliber 119 at 9  3/4'"

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 7 months later...

I need a balance spring and a pallet fork for this movement. Any idea where to find it?

On the dial side of the watch is stamped FHF8, but obviously this is a variant of FHF 1156 (different bridges). 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, Giogrlj said:

I need a balance spring and a pallet fork for this movement. Any idea where to find it?

On the dial side of the watch is stamped FHF8, but obviously this is a variant of FHF 1156 (different bridges). 

Your only real chance is to find a donor movement on eBay. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, Giogrlj said:

I need a balance spring and a pallet fork for this movement. Any idea where to find it?

On the dial side of the watch is stamped FHF8, but obviously this is a variant of FHF 1156 (different bridges). 

Different bridges don't mean fork and balance springs are different too. 

 Fork and balance are parts of the escapement, designed to beat at certain rate which the entire escapement is suppose to produce, so you should base your search on beat/ frequency of the caliber you have .

As clockboy suggest your best chance is to find a donor, or a balance complete.

Balance spring off of two new balance completes of same caliber & frequency  won't readily interchange, though can be made to produce the design beat.

Prior to mass production of balance complete, watchmakers had to vibrate balance & spring to build a balance complete. 

There many discussions on the subject on WRT forum.

Rgds

Edited by Nucejoe
Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, Nucejoe said:

Different bridges don't mean fork and balance springs are different too. 

 Fork and balance are parts of the escapement, designed to beat at certain rate which the entire escapement is suppose to produce, so you should base your search on beat/ frequency of the caliber you have .

As clockboy suggest your best chance is to find a donor, or a balance complete.

Balance spring off of two new balance completes of same caliber & frequency  won't readily interchange, though can be made to produce the design beat.

Prior to mass production of balance complete, watchmakers had to vibrate balance & spring to build a balance complete. 

There many discussions on the subject on WRT forum.

Rgds

Thank's

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • As with every skill it watchmaking, it takes practice. Notice at the top of the document it says, "Practical work - 40 hours".  I can get the balance wheels 'close enough' to flat, but never seem to get them perfect. Same with gear wheels. Guess I need more practice.
    • Has it got a beat adjustment on the platform or is it a fixed hairspring? in short what you are looking at to get it just about in beat is to get the roller jewel sitting dead centre between the banking pins. So remove the platform and take of the pallet fork and escape wheel to give you clear line of site, sit the platform with the balance in place and with it level look between the banking pins and see if the roller jewel is sitting between them, if it is nice and central its there or there abouts in beat, if its not the the position of the pinned end of the hairspring needs to be adjusted to move the roller jewel into the correct position, thats why I asked if it has an adjustment on the platform or not, if it has its an easier job. 
    • I've managed to adjust it. I'm going to try and explain it as well as I can with my limited horology knowledge but I hope it helps someone in the future. There is a cam to the right of the front plate as shown in the picture. As the clock ticks along, the pin indicated in the gear comes around and slots into one of the silencer cam gaps, turning the cam. The pin completes a full rotation in 2 hours. To adjust the cam to start at the right time set the clock to just before 7. I did 6:45. Then I turned the silencer cam anticlockwise, which spins freely, until it pushed the silencer lever up and was placed just before the drop. Just before the 7AM indicated in the picture. All I then had to do was progress the hands to 7-7:15which made the pin slot into the silencer cam gap and turn the cam so the lever comes down again, unsilencing the clock. That was it. If anyone comes across this issue again I'd be happy to assist. Thanks again to everyone that helped. Hey Transporter! Thanks a lot for the reply. That was a really good explanation and I'm sure it would have made my troubleshooting a lot less painful haha. I'm sure someone will find it useful in the future. Thank you again for taking the time to try and help me out with this.
    • Now I'm completely confused, it would appear that the epilame  is oleophobic  as @Marc states: This oleophobic  behavior can be seen as beading of the droplet (as above) which stops the oil spreading which is supported by what we observe on treated/untreated cap stones (for example), but as @VWatchie states this should make the drops more mobile and is supported by the literature:   A review on control of droplet motion based on wettability modulation principles design strategies recent progress and applications.pdf   However the hole point is that we have less mobile oil so an oleophobic  would see to be the opposite of what we want. In fact this beading and high mobility are desirable properties in things like smart phone covers, see below.  I am fairly sure that epilame doesn't make the droplets more mobile, so maybe its a strange coating with dual properties that are both oleophobic (beading) and cohesive/adhesive resulting in low mobility?? This may explain the high price??  
    • The description there is exactly how it's done, and it's very well written!
×
×
  • Create New...