Jump to content

More Rust!! This Time, An Omega Chronostop Cal.865


Recommended Posts

Its not been a good month for rusty watches. It's a real shame about this one as the dial has also been damaged and it will be pretty hard/expensive to replace as it is the driver model (dial is rotated 90ºs).

 

 

Here are some pictures of the strip down.

 

post-1-0-05341200-1435240783_thumb.jpg

 

post-1-0-49702700-1435240783_thumb.jpg

 

post-1-0-03051100-1435240784_thumb.jpg

 

post-1-0-56944100-1435240784_thumb.jpg

 

post-1-0-01495700-1435240785_thumb.jpg

 

post-1-0-57136900-1435240785_thumb.jpg

 

post-1-0-03582200-1435240786_thumb.jpg

 

post-1-0-54493600-1435240786_thumb.jpg

 

post-1-0-11196400-1435240787_thumb.jpg

 

post-1-0-57307200-1435240787_thumb.jpg

 

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

post-1-0-54850300-1435240905_thumb.jpg

 

post-1-0-80868900-1435240906_thumb.jpg

 

Notice that somebody broke a screw on this one and replaced it with a bodge up...

 

post-1-0-06622300-1435240908_thumb.jpg

 

It seems the screw hole (a steel insert) has been removed and the screw was driven into the brass plate - oh joy. Not sure if I will ever find a new steel insert. May have to make do as best as I can.

 

post-1-0-12436200-1435240909_thumb.jpg

 

post-1-0-51054500-1435240910_thumb.jpg

 

post-1-0-80876300-1435240911_thumb.jpg

 

post-1-0-05805200-1435240913_thumb.jpg

 

Broken mainspring. Notice how it is coned up due to being fitted badly by hand...

 

post-1-0-94788300-1435240913_thumb.jpg

 

post-1-0-84529800-1435240914_thumb.jpg

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

This is the driver edition.

f4e146a8d44fdf7f442e69635939cd50.jpg

The cost of parts is pushing this repair to the limits already though even if I could find one.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You've got your work cut out there Mark. I used to get many rusty watches come to me more so in the summer as I was close to a seaside town. It's unbelievable the damage sea water can do in such a short time. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi clockboy. I think we all had or have a good old glass fibre scratch brush. The problem using one of those on an Omega movement is being so careful as not to remove the bronze finish on the movement and to make sure each brush goes the same way as the finish, if not you can be left with a movement that looks terrible and you have caused permanent damage. I always went the way that parts were better to be re-placed, I would never use the old stem if it had rust I would always fit a new one.  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

@oldhippy - spot on. Using the scratch brush on omega plates will damage the finish. A good soak and plenty of work over with peg wood is usually very effective.

The scratch brush is good on steel parts.

If the rust has penetrated a part then it should be replaced if available and customer agrees to the costs.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 months later...
  • 1 month later...

o.k....time's up, mark. we gotta have an update on this. i'm interested on what the outcome was (i'm sure it was based on customer cashflow).

 

i read somewhere that the 865 is similar to the 861 (i believe). memory fails me as to what i read about the 861 but it seems that it was a better movement in some way. refresh me fellas. or am i losing my marbles on this one?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...
  • 1 month later...


  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Here are the pics of the bridge. Looks correct, but as soon as I screw on the rotor, the watch stops. Video here: https://1drv.ms/v/s!ArG5E62RGctxjokY5ws85BzuJLVakA   Pics. Might have figured it out. I have been working on this watch for a while and since I got it as a non runner in a terrible shape, there was no guarantee that parts were proper. I think the main screw that was used on the rotor was too long, so it was stopping the main train. As soon as I fished out a much shorter and larger headed screw, things were good again. Please celebrate with me.  
    • One-dip or naphtha should be safe, but are you sure it isn't magnetized?  I would also check that.  Although, if that balance is from an Elgin 760 0r 761, I would think it would have a hairspring of non-magnetic alloy.
    • Hi, Is there a spell check function available when you are posting ? Regards CJ
    • Hi John I just did a Seiko Lord-Matic a front loader without a split stem, I used a crystal lift to remove it, although I had to have it that tight I though I was going to break the lift before the crystal would budge. So I decided that the press would be a better option as I think crystals with tension rings resist a lot of compressing. I used a crystal press to repalce it and the bezel with no issues, obviuosly a different watch to the Omega. I just took my time and kept inspecting the installation progress bit by bit Regards CJ
    • Hello All, I’m replacing the crystal in an Omega Dynamic, # 165.039, which houses a cal 552, installed through the front of the case. The replacement Sterncreuz crystal is, like the original, with tension ring. I removed the crystal using a compressed air technique to pop it out.  (I have a crystal lift, but I’m always fearful of marking the crystal edges and so avoid using it as much as possible). Now to the replacement -  any tips on putting the crystal back in?  Am I obliged to using my dreaded crystal lift to complete the task, or how about a crystal press?  I’ve put lots of crystals in using a press, but never with the movement in the watch. The thought of using one with a front-loader makes me very nervous, with the fully assembled watch sitting under the press. How would more experienced folks proceed here? Any advice, gratefully received… John Down Under…
×
×
  • Create New...