Jump to content

Omega 268 Service And De-Rust


Recommended Posts

Excellent tuition as always Mark.

Like clockboy I am curious about the rust treatment you prefer. It appears that you re used the stem so was it chemical or elbow grease or a bit of both.

Cheers,

Vic

Edited by Vich
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Great job Mark, incredible finished result. Do you use Evapo-Rust or bicarb

 

No - I don't like using chemicals if possible. I go over them with a fibreglass scratch brush. The exception is the barrel arbor which I polished back up on the lathe. BTW - the watch is going extremely well.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I use the glass fibre scratchers always a bit awkward on small parts but very effective. Often wish that someone would make a glass fibre "scratch " wheel to fit my dremel.

 Cheers,

 

Vic

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Often wish that someone would make a glass fibre "scratch " wheel to fit my dremel.

 

Oooh... I don't think that would be safe :) the little fibres are horrible - would be like mounting a cactus to the dremel. I have to say though - the Scotchbrite wheels are really good for the pendant motor/dremel.

 

http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Scotchbrite-Pendant-Wheel-prcode-999-ACR

 

Just make sure you use eye protection as I found to my immense discomfort when I first used one!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I couldn't do without my Dremel but like George I always finish off by hand

(just realised what I have written - please resist lads I was actually trying to be serious for a change)

Cheers,

Vic

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 months later...

Happen to be working on a PUW1261 with similar rusting of the stem into the clutch wheel and winding wheel.  I cleaned off the worst of the rust with a fibreglass pen (well away from my other watch work as the small fibres get everywhere!) but could not budge it even after soaking in deodorised kerosine (BBQ lighter fuel) for a few hours. I then left them overnight in Plus-Gaz and they came apart with a good tug. 

I cleaned off the worst of the rust again with a fibreglass pen . I then soaked overnight in Kurust (which I used to use on rusty car panels!) which converts all the rust (Ferric Oxide) into Ferrous Phosphate which is like a protective layer.  The Kurust contains phosphoric acid which converts the rust, (I gather well known brands of cola also contain phosphoric acid and will convert the rust but not tried!), the parts should be thoroughly washed in water and dried after treating. The reason for doing this treatment is to prevent the rust reforming as it surely will if microparts of Ferric Oxide are left in the material without being converted (of interest is that most greases contain some water and so can restart the process on their own if not serviced regularly!).  The phosphate left after treating will prevent further rust formation. The phosphate layer is mid/dark grey and can be cleaned off using the fibreglass pen again and/or 1200/2500 wet and dry to get back to a bright finish with the ingrained phoshate still left.    I finished off the square hole in the clutch wheel by applying a paste mix of diamantine and oil to the stem and working it until it was nice and free and the stem part polished up a bit, then cleaned off with a wash.  All parts where then put through a normal clean cycle.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites



×
×
  • Create New...