Jump to content

Technical Sheet for Elgin grade 269. Model 2


Recommended Posts

18 minutes ago, NovaScotiaPete said:

Is there anyone out there that has the technical sheet for an Elgin pocket watch grade 269 model 2. Size 0?

You're assuming that a technical sheet exists but he fact is, back then and still more recently,  nothing of of the like did exist.  Even the watchmaking books are skimpy on the subject of "servicing and lubrication,  they focus on much harde4 tasks. The reason is that repairers were supposed to know their trade well without printed guidance. An ability that sadly appears to be lost, and not only in watch repair.

Edited by jdm
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 minute ago, jdm said:

You're assuming that a technical sheet exists but he fact is, back then and still more recently,  nothing of of the like did exist.  Even the watchmaking books are skimpy on the subject of "servicing and lubrication,  they focus on much harde4 tasks. The reason is that repairers were supposed to know their trade well without printed guidance. An ability that sadly appears to be lost, and not only in watch repair.

Thank you. I secretly expected that reply, but hoped. Thanks for letting me know.

Just now, LittleWatchShop said:

I suppose you have already been here as a launching point.  Looks like you need a balance complete and cock...unless you have removed it.

Removed already. Seems to be an operating balance. Thank goodness.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just now, NovaScotiaPete said:

Thank you. I secretly expected that reply, but hoped. Thanks for letting me know.

You are welcome. I completely support and appreciate anyone that like to get prepared by reading and studying before undertaking a practical task. Now, for (vintage) watches, the right material is old books, essays and similar. Most if not all are freely available on the Internet with just a bit of searching.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

While there may not be a specific service guide for this movement, I suspect that you would find the old Chicago School of Watchmaking course handy. It will provide a lot of information on American pocket watch servicing. I believe it's available online somewhere in CD form. I have that, as well as the original hard copy. I think that will be your ticket. Good luck!

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, NovaScotiaPete said:

since many of my watches are Elgin.

Elgin produced a hardcopy manual: "Elgin Genuine Materials" that contains the original part numbers (by grade) for the watches they produced. It does not contain any assembly/disassembly information.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

12 hours ago, NovaScotiaPete said:

s there anyone out there that has the technical sheet for an Elgin pocket watch grade 269 model 2. Size 0?

the best of my knowledge I don't recall ever seeing a service guide or a technical guide for any American pocket watch at least vintage. There will be parts books but they don't cover repair that is covered the parts. As you can see above other people produced service information.

then even the U.S. Army was teaching pocketwatch repair and here's their book that you can download.

https://archive.org/details/TM9-1575

12 hours ago, NovaScotiaPete said:

Would help immensely if there is one

is there some specific piece of knowledge are looking for?

 

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

So much info. Who knew? Thank you.

No specific knowledge, just as much info as I can take in. This is my first project and I want it to be perfect. New mainspring just arrived and I have access to a donor movement if needed.

This is a nice 269 movement and watch. No seconds hand, which seems unusual for this model.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, NovaScotiaPete said:

This is my first project and I want it to be perfect.

You might want to recalibrate your expectations for a first project.

Remember: Perfection is the enemy of good enough.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

15 minutes ago, grsnovi said:

You might want to recalibrate your expectations for a first project.

Remember: Perfection is the enemy of good enough.

Ha ha. Well, I’ll try. Always strive for perfection.

Perfection is not attainable, but if we chase perfection we can catch excellence. ...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

17 minutes ago, NovaScotiaPete said:

Well, I’ll try. Always strive for perfection.

OK, but just remember that as this is your first project it's very likely that your technique won't be perfect.

  • A light touch with your tweezers will prevent small items from zipping off into never-neverland.
  • Even brand new screw drivers may not have the optimum tip needed.
  • Be careful with cleaning solutions. Prolonged immersion in IPA will dissolve shellac. Unless rinsed well some cleaning solutions will leave a residue on the part surfaces that may become problematic later.
  • Inspect all parts carefully for damage and wear. This includes all pivot jewels.
  • Never force a screw. If a screw needs to be forced maybe it is threaded opposite of your expectations.
  • When lubricating: less is usually better. You don't want excess oil and grease all over the place.

Enjoy!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • OK, let me try and expand on why I think this is right (but maybe misleading at the same time). Wikipedia has a good explanation of surface tension, which is where I got most of the ideas below. The cohesion of the liquid molecules binds them together into the most compact form possible. If there are no external forces acting, this is a sphere. Surface tension is the combined effect of the cohesion between molecules on the surface with others on the surface, as well as the cohesion to molecules just under the surface, causing contraction and the formation of a denser "skin". The way a droplet of a liquid forms on a solid surface is determined by the strength of this cohesive force relative to the adhesive force between the liquid molecules and the surface material. If cohesion >> adhesion, you get a droplet. If cohesion is similar to adhesion, the liquid tends to spread out on the surface and creep away from its original location. Oil doesn't have the same high surface tension that water does, so it is not going to form a really rounded droplet on any surface in the way that water will "bead" on wax. This is where my earlier statement is misleading, but it is still exactly the same principles at work. Drops of oil on an epilamed surface are not going to run off in all directions at the lightest provocation. What the epilame does, I think, is reduce the adhesive force to the surface somewhat, making the weak cohesive force of the oil molecules more effective. The result is less tendency of the oil to spread out and creep, and more tendency to stick together as a cohesive mass. I don't think epilame has any effect on surface tension. That is a property of the liquid and is determined solely by the cohesive forces between the liquid molecules. I also don't think the epilame makes the liquid "stick" to where it is applied. The oil adheres ("sticks") more strongly to a non-treated surface than to a surface treated with epilame. This is why the epilame needs to be removed from the contact surfaces by running dry for a short period. The oil then sticks more readily to the local contact surfaces, where the epilame layer is worn away, than to the surrounding area. The oil sticks together, and is thereby anchored in place as a single body. Interestingly, reducing the adhesion of the oil to the solid surfaces will also reduce capillary action, which is what we rely on if we don't use epilame. Another reason to make sure the epilame is worn away from the spot you want the oil to stay put.    
    • Look up index vs free sprung balances.  The screws are for timing. 
    • I was considering just building a watch from scratch, I've heard the nh35 movements have a lot of case and dial choices and apparently they run poorly when you buy them new so a good service is required. But honestly building a watch like that doesn't interest me. I love fixing things. There's nothing more satisfying to me than taking something broken and making it work again. Plus watches are cool 😎 and easier to store than a car engine! I only had one engine in the dining room and my wife complained. Hopefully the watches will go unnoticed.
    • Hi all, My "practice" watch has a worn our balance pivot, so I ordered a balance complete. Pieces nr 4871 for Unitas 6310. It's probably no big deal, but my original balance wheel has plenty of screws or similar protruding all around, while the new one I got doesn't. What's the purpose of these thingies? I haven't installed it yet, maybe next week. Thanks
    • For those of you who are looking for a Seitz jewel gauge, I just want to make you aware that there may be a good opportunity right now at Tradera.com (Swedish eBay). The site has significantly fewer visitors than eBay and I have made several fantastic deals there. 1500 SEK corresponds to approx. £110/€128/$137 https://www.tradera.com/item/1922/631487681/seitz-urmakarverktyg-matare Just to make sure, I'm not associated with this listing in any way!  
×
×
  • Create New...