Jump to content

Installing New Mainspring


Recommended Posts

What is the best way to install a new mainspring from the ring into the barrel that assures spring is pushed into the barrel evenly.  For me, more often than not, the mainspring comes out of the ring unevenly usually the bridle end sticking out of the barrel.  Its only a slight motion or bump until it unravels from that point.  It quite aggravating.

Thanks.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, PostwarO27 said:

What is the best way to install a new mainspring from the ring into the barrel that assures spring is pushed into the barrel evenly.  For me, more often than not, the mainspring comes out of the ring unevenly usually the bridle end sticking out of the barrel.  Its only a slight motion or bump until it unravels from that point.  It quite aggravating.

Thanks.

I bet it's happened to everyone, don't get disheartened. 

I find the handle end of a pair of tweezers is a good tool to coax the mainspring into the barrel. It does tend to go in unevenly but it can levelled out without too much force. 

Brass tweezers preferably. 

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Also had trouble with that issue in the past. Especially a very flat mainspring (0.63) nearly drove me mad.

Finally I designed a little tool and a friend with a 3D-printer produced it for me. Once screwed down it holds the spring and its ring tight on the barrel. Then I can just push it down with a brass screwdriver. No „flipping out“-danger anymore.

A4B6C46D-D216-4AF7-996D-385A7850FA00.thumb.jpeg.1509194c42a37a9959f6936d3cd71602.jpeg

CCEA5C0E-7EEE-4860-9AD3-166B77CFD8B7.thumb.jpeg.82107c7fb983e498b0f3282391f37ef0.jpeg

  • Like 5
Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, Delgetti said:

Sorry, I didn‘t really get it, no native english speaker. Are you asking for the cad-data of that tool? I have it in .stl format.

Yes sir, that is what I was asking.  Are those files something that you wouldn't mind sharing?  STL format is fine.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 minutes ago, Delgetti said:

I think .stl can‘t be uploaded here. So send me a message with a mail adress and I will send you the files via mail. 

You can also upload to Thingiverse and it will be visible and useful to a much wider base.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

28 minutes ago, jdm said:

You can also upload to Thingiverse and it will be visible and useful to a much wider base.

Thanks jdm. Just created an account. Thingiverse says new users must wait 24 hours before they can publish. So I will be back tomorrow. 🙂

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Thingverse update:

I have used your gadget twice so far and failed both times.  Although it does contain the parts from flinging off into nowhere land when the spring uncoiled.

I'll keep trying but at 20 bucks a spring, its an expensive learning curve.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you have problems getting the bridle to sit properly (I've been there), this is how I do it : 

 Put the spring in the washer over the barrel, then press it down flush with the top of the washer with the flat side of brass tweezers.
At this stage it's still held by the washer. 
Then (holding the washer firmly down) with the pointed end of the tweezers, gently push the outer coil down, starting at the bridle. Work around the outer coil and you will feel the spring free itself from the washer. 
Then push the middle of the spring down. 
If any of the outer coil is not fully down, it's easy to push it in with the flat end of the tweezers. 
Job done 😀

Link to comment
Share on other sites

11 hours ago, PostwarO27 said:

Thingverse update:

I have used your gadget twice so far and failed both times.  Although it does contain the parts from flinging off into nowhere land when the spring uncoiled.

I'll keep trying but at 20 bucks a spring, its an expensive learning curve.

Sorry to hear that. Some additional descripton with sketches. All action very slowly and gently. 1. Push the spring a little bit down in its ring. 2. Put it in the barrel, be sure the spring is really inside the wall. Put both centered on the bottom part of the tool. 3. Screw down the top part of the tool. Be sure the barrel stays centered. Screw down until spring and barrel are really held together with some force. The upper tool part will push the spring further down through the ring automatically. 4. Push the spring down with a brass screwdriver. Be absolutely sure to push the last coil. This is easier if you choose eg. the area with the hook. Do some additional pushes at other places on the diameter until the spring flips into the barrel. Good luck!

 

 

9D524B0E-575C-4AB5-82A3-5D8EFEF9016F.jpeg

ABCED1AB-13D1-424E-87EB-53CBFD147C75.jpeg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Actually moving the spring ring to the edge of the coil is what I've been doing all along and did with the device.  Although, I did lay my screwdriver down on an angle as opposed the perpendicular approach you have in fig 4.  I'll try that next time.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • yes I noticed the new site and I miss the old site. It's the unfortunate problem of the Internet here today gone tomorrow sometimes some of the stuff gets backed up and sometimes well it does not then the problem with the early Seiko's were there were not necessarily designed for distribution across the planet and as such there is no customer support for them. So trying to find early stuff like technical information or sometimes even parts list for older Seiko is is problematic. But I did find you a you tube video. A quick look he seems to take a heck of a lot of time to actually get to the service single I did not watch all that but it does look like he did disassemble or started to say there's a tiny bit here  
    • RichardHarris123: Hello and welcome from Leeds, England.  I have family all over Australia, went as £10 poms Thanks Richard. Hope you’re able to visit your family here and that they’ve all done well 🙂 My relatives arrived from England in the 1790s transported on the ‘Second & Third Fleets’—a story of timber sailing ships, of convicts and doing well in this huge Country of Australia. When I visited the UK in the 1980s, I was too young to comprehend the depth and breadth of its history…  Best wishes, Mike William Chapman, my 4th great Grandad’s charges, at age 23 read at the Old Bailey; sentenced to 7 years of transportation to Sydney.
    • The whole process and the progress are closely observed, it's hand-driven and very controlled. I can't see the "danger", unless you are watching the TV while doing it. As you could have read, and in this quote "wheel" is the balance-wheel.
    • Have you got the pallet fork installed in the movement when you see the train move when using the setting works? As nevenbekriev said, without the pallet fork to lock the train, the behaviour you are describing is normal. If this is happening with the pallet fork installed, you have a problem in the gear train, it should be immobile when the pallet fork is locking the escape wheel.  The fit of the circlip above the pinions on that wheel is crooked in your pictures, it should sit flat up against the upper pinion as in Marc’s picture.  Hope that helps, Mark
    • Hi I got a Jaeger LeCoultre K911 movement, where one of the stems was broken. Part no. Should be 401.  Im based in Europe and tried Cousins but its discontinued. They except to get stem in stock for cal. K916 but will that work? Or Is there a way out to join the ends?
×
×
  • Create New...