Jump to content

Installing New Mainspring


Recommended Posts

What is the best way to install a new mainspring from the ring into the barrel that assures spring is pushed into the barrel evenly.  For me, more often than not, the mainspring comes out of the ring unevenly usually the bridle end sticking out of the barrel.  Its only a slight motion or bump until it unravels from that point.  It quite aggravating.

Thanks.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, PostwarO27 said:

What is the best way to install a new mainspring from the ring into the barrel that assures spring is pushed into the barrel evenly.  For me, more often than not, the mainspring comes out of the ring unevenly usually the bridle end sticking out of the barrel.  Its only a slight motion or bump until it unravels from that point.  It quite aggravating.

Thanks.

I bet it's happened to everyone, don't get disheartened. 

I find the handle end of a pair of tweezers is a good tool to coax the mainspring into the barrel. It does tend to go in unevenly but it can levelled out without too much force. 

Brass tweezers preferably. 

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Also had trouble with that issue in the past. Especially a very flat mainspring (0.63) nearly drove me mad.

Finally I designed a little tool and a friend with a 3D-printer produced it for me. Once screwed down it holds the spring and its ring tight on the barrel. Then I can just push it down with a brass screwdriver. No „flipping out“-danger anymore.

A4B6C46D-D216-4AF7-996D-385A7850FA00.thumb.jpeg.1509194c42a37a9959f6936d3cd71602.jpeg

CCEA5C0E-7EEE-4860-9AD3-166B77CFD8B7.thumb.jpeg.82107c7fb983e498b0f3282391f37ef0.jpeg

  • Like 5
Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, Delgetti said:

Sorry, I didn‘t really get it, no native english speaker. Are you asking for the cad-data of that tool? I have it in .stl format.

Yes sir, that is what I was asking.  Are those files something that you wouldn't mind sharing?  STL format is fine.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 minutes ago, Delgetti said:

I think .stl can‘t be uploaded here. So send me a message with a mail adress and I will send you the files via mail. 

You can also upload to Thingiverse and it will be visible and useful to a much wider base.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

28 minutes ago, jdm said:

You can also upload to Thingiverse and it will be visible and useful to a much wider base.

Thanks jdm. Just created an account. Thingiverse says new users must wait 24 hours before they can publish. So I will be back tomorrow. 🙂

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Thingverse update:

I have used your gadget twice so far and failed both times.  Although it does contain the parts from flinging off into nowhere land when the spring uncoiled.

I'll keep trying but at 20 bucks a spring, its an expensive learning curve.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you have problems getting the bridle to sit properly (I've been there), this is how I do it : 

 Put the spring in the washer over the barrel, then press it down flush with the top of the washer with the flat side of brass tweezers.
At this stage it's still held by the washer. 
Then (holding the washer firmly down) with the pointed end of the tweezers, gently push the outer coil down, starting at the bridle. Work around the outer coil and you will feel the spring free itself from the washer. 
Then push the middle of the spring down. 
If any of the outer coil is not fully down, it's easy to push it in with the flat end of the tweezers. 
Job done 😀

Link to comment
Share on other sites

11 hours ago, PostwarO27 said:

Thingverse update:

I have used your gadget twice so far and failed both times.  Although it does contain the parts from flinging off into nowhere land when the spring uncoiled.

I'll keep trying but at 20 bucks a spring, its an expensive learning curve.

Sorry to hear that. Some additional descripton with sketches. All action very slowly and gently. 1. Push the spring a little bit down in its ring. 2. Put it in the barrel, be sure the spring is really inside the wall. Put both centered on the bottom part of the tool. 3. Screw down the top part of the tool. Be sure the barrel stays centered. Screw down until spring and barrel are really held together with some force. The upper tool part will push the spring further down through the ring automatically. 4. Push the spring down with a brass screwdriver. Be absolutely sure to push the last coil. This is easier if you choose eg. the area with the hook. Do some additional pushes at other places on the diameter until the spring flips into the barrel. Good luck!

 

 

9D524B0E-575C-4AB5-82A3-5D8EFEF9016F.jpeg

ABCED1AB-13D1-424E-87EB-53CBFD147C75.jpeg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Actually moving the spring ring to the edge of the coil is what I've been doing all along and did with the device.  Although, I did lay my screwdriver down on an angle as opposed the perpendicular approach you have in fig 4.  I'll try that next time.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Haha. You're just in a wicked mood today John 😅
    • Heres my watch of today, a Smith 13'" RY . My missus bought me this for this Valentines day a bargain 14.99 with a reduction, the seller has occasional 20% off offers now and then so it was about 15ish with delivery. I love Smiths and i love bulleye dials, this is my first one. The watch arrived non working as stated and i knew what was inside and what would be against me, but i enjoy a challenge, we dont expect a lot if anything from pin pallet movements. A balance pivot was broken and i didnt have another staff but i did have another RY with a battered dial so i robbed the balance and tweaked it around to make it work apart from that mostly just a good clean and relubrication. Keyless works are pretty rough by design and the crown is a bugger to get in and out with the dial on, the setting lever hits the dial before it releases it, so a little mod is needed to help that along. Major problem was the pins on the lever were quite worn which make the old tg have a snow storm fit. Its a similar read for most pin pallets, these were brass as was the escape wheel. But perseverance is me, i didn't change the pins but i did spend some time dressing and polishing the worn areas which improved the trace a lot with some straightish lines 😅 and a beat error of .5 . Not sure what the lift angle should be on these and i Wasn't in the mood to work it out and who believes timegraphers anyway, but at the default 52° it runs with 260ish full 210 after 24 hours dial down , the verticals rates were pretty much all over place. So lets just put it in it's superlight aluminium case and see what happens. Been wearing it now for 3 weeks and it's consistently losing around 1.5  minutes a week winding each morning i think pretty good for an old pin pallet watch. I just love this dial, thanks wifey heres my Valentine's gift for yer sweetie x
    • I have a PDF below that will help. The problem was the PDF wasn't designed for this purpose it was designed to tell you what size watch you  have. Then it doesn't take into account movements come conceivably in different thicknesses.   watch-ligne-size-chart.pdf
    • That would be something! Which brings me back to;  
    • you think you're going to sleep tonight you're not, you're going to ponder the question of what makes you think those of the right parts?  
×
×
  • Create New...