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Janta / Pearl Watch Cleaning Machine

OmarHaltam
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muddtt Watch Enthusiast

muddtt

Posted
Posted

Here is a video of the ABS rotor running from start, a bit of bubbles at 2-3 minutes, and a photo of when it finished. Feel like the video makes it seem like there was a bit more bubbles then there actually was. I think if I increased the level of the fluid a bit it might help resolve it. But nothing that seemed to be concerned about. 

 

 

 

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muddtt
muddtt

A quality of life upgrade for the machine. 3D printed a handle for the knob cause my knob HURTS! Just snaps on and makes it easier to tighten and loosen the knob without ripping my hand. Part file bel

jimzzilla
jimzzilla

We all know how "good" the gaskets are on the Janta bottle lids are to prevent evaporation and the chemical smells. May I recommend this, a plumbers test cap for 3" pipe about $7.50 each.  

Colditz
Colditz

Hi All I just purchased one of these pearl cleaning machines from a dealer in India. Be careful of the wiring and I would urge you to inspect the wiring to all components. The wire used in m

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jimzzilla WRT Addict

jimzzilla

Posted
Posted
On 10/3/2022 at 10:14 PM, muddtt said:

Here is a video of the ABS rotor running from start, a bit of bubbles at 2-3 minutes, and a photo of when it finished. Feel like the video makes it seem like there was a bit more bubbles then there actually was. I think if I increased the level of the fluid a bit it might help resolve it. But nothing that seemed to be concerned about. 

 

 

 

Not bad! looks good enough to me.

10 hours ago, muddtt said:

A quality of life upgrade for the machine. 3D printed a handle for the knob cause my knob HURTS! Just snaps on and makes it easier to tighten and loosen the knob without ripping my hand. Part file below.

 

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5548670

 

Cool innovation, I was thinking of drilling thru and tapping the existing shaft and have a shaft and round knob like the original Elma.

  • Like 1
muddtt Watch Enthusiast

muddtt

Posted
Posted
28 minutes ago, gbyleveldt said:

Very nice! Have you got any ideas on what rpm you running?

In the video I run it at full speed for a short time. It's stable though. It's still seems to be important to try to balance out the basket when you fill it with items. I think I'll keep some spare screws on the side to balance out any bridges cause those seem to weight the most. 

Otherwise, when I run it in the machine I usually run it pretty slow so it doesn't foam up. I was actually surprised to find out that dropping the basket too fast created a lot of bubbles. When I lowered it slowly and turned it on, I was foam free. 

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jimzzilla WRT Addict

jimzzilla

Posted
Posted (edited)
15 hours ago, muddtt said:

New basket design. Added some larger holes so it would be easier to manipulate the baskets and remove them. Seems like it's working well so far. Way better than what I got from the factory.

 

Here's the link if you want to print your own:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5551313

 

 

IMG_0224.thumb.JPG.dbe4fe16f1c6c7d77dc3138c536f9740.JPG

 

You have done it muddtt, you fixed the main running issue with this machine!!! The basket assembly. Congratulations sir.                                                                                                                   

I wish I were in the same boat as you because I need a new shaft for mine.

I have been looking at auto FWD / REV circuit for mine. The  FWD and REV wiring on the switch of the machine i think  can be modified to use a variable solid state time delay relay to auto FWD / REV for whatever the timer is set for, then just replace the FWD / REV toggle switch to a momentary switch to initiate the TDR to go in to a timing cycle and it will FWD / REV for as long as the timer is set for. I have to call the manufacture to get the right one. 

The only thing is if my wiring is wrong I do not want to smoke the motor!  god would that suck. 😒                              

This is a ways down the road right now I just want to get the new shaft made but it is something I have in the back of my mind that I want to try.

Edited by jimzzilla
  • 4 weeks later...
jimzzilla WRT Addict

jimzzilla

Posted
Posted

Auto Forward/Reverse is now a reality. 😎

 

https://vk.com/video617204413_456239029?t=5s

 

https://vk.com/video617204413_456239030?t=10s

 

https://vk.com/video617204413_456239031?t=6s

 

It works a little differently, flip the switch up to reverse and it auto for/rev, flip it down to forward CW rotation only to spin off the fluids. everything else works as it did before see the videos.

  • Like 4
  • 4 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...
jimzzilla WRT Addict

jimzzilla

Posted
Posted

We all know how "good" the gaskets are on the Janta bottle lids are to prevent evaporation and the chemical smells.

May I recommend this, a plumbers test cap for 3" pipe about $7.50 each.

 

 

 

CAP1.jpg

CAP2.jpg

CAP3.jpg

CAP4.jpg

CAP5.jpg

  • Like 6
HectorLooi Distinguished Member

HectorLooi

Posted
Posted
3 hours ago, jimzzilla said:

May I recommend this, a plumbers test cap for 3" pipe about $7.50 each.

How resistant is it to benzine? I've tried many materials but benzine seem to swell up most plastics and rubbers. Even silicone and Teflon. 

jimzzilla WRT Addict

jimzzilla

Posted
Posted
40 minutes ago, HectorLooi said:

How resistant is it to benzine? I've tried many materials but benzine seem to swell up most plastics and rubbers. Even silicone and Teflon. 

Hello HectorLooi. To be honest I don't I have only been using the Test caps a short time and I don't use benzine.

I use the L&R #111 that is Ammoniated and so far so good, you have a good question, I would have to agree with you that it would deteriorate the rubber.

jimzzilla WRT Addict

jimzzilla

Posted
Posted (edited)

Yes I do, I haven't had any ill effects on the rubber as of yet but it only has been a couple of days.

Thanks for the heads up I will have to keep an eye out for degradation of the rubber.

Edited by jimzzilla
muddtt Watch Enthusiast

muddtt

Posted
Posted

Made some custom large baskets to solve a couple problems.

1) Sometimes the other baskets can squish down into the large baskets because it has no dividers to keep it up. This could ruin the spring tension holding the baskets down

2) sometimes for large pocket watch main plates, if they just sit at the bottom they can move around too much and ruin the balance when its spinning fast to dry. 

 

If anyone wants the models i can upload them. 

 

IMG_0503.thumb.JPG.d44b673ffd703686cea1e0d4a40c0f11.JPG

  • Like 1
xyzzy WRT Addict

xyzzy

Posted
Posted

Could you just put the large basket at the top to keep other baskets from squishing into it?

I wonder if you could shape the edges of the holes, so that fluid tends to get forced through them?

Or would that be counter productive? Since maybe it acts like a centrifugal pump, drawing fluid up through the center via suction and then flinging it out the sides via centrifugal force.

Interesting idea anyway.  The basket is thick and you can put angles on it for free with 3d printing and don't need extra machining steps.

muddtt Watch Enthusiast

muddtt

Posted
Posted
6 minutes ago, xyzzy said:

Could you just put the large basket at the top to keep other baskets from squishing into it?

I wonder if you could shape the edges of the holes, so that fluid tends to get forced through them?

Or would that be counter productive? Since maybe it acts like a centrifugal pump, drawing fluid up through the center via suction and then flinging it out the sides via centrifugal force.

Interesting idea anyway.  The basket is thick and you can put angles on it for free with 3d printing and don't need extra machining steps.

Think I tried putting the large basket up top once, but the way they nest it ended up too tall. 

The cap on the stock unit and on the 3D printed one I designed have propellors on top that push fluid down already. Could shape the edges of the holes, but that might be like putting lipstick on a horse. 

I already have a new basket idea that could get rid of all the stock baskets. Those things are kinda flimsy anyways. 

muddtt Watch Enthusiast

muddtt

Posted
Posted
1 minute ago, LittleWatchShop said:

One of the issues with PLA baskets is the heat during drying

Thread is long, but the blue baskets are made of ABS, and the gray are HIPS. Both print at over 200 degrees celcius. Tested them in the heating chamber a good number of times now and they hold up fine. As far as chemical resistance, I'm using a Zenith non-ammoniated, water, and 99 IPA. So far, it's been holding up great against them. 

LittleWatchShop Distinguished Member

LittleWatchShop

Posted
Posted
48 minutes ago, muddtt said:

Thread is long, but the blue baskets are made of ABS, and the gray are HIPS. Both print at over 200 degrees celcius. Tested them in the heating chamber a good number of times now and they hold up fine. As far as chemical resistance, I'm using a Zenith non-ammoniated, water, and 99 IPA. So far, it's been holding up great against them. 

Great input. I have never printed with ABS, but maybe I should try. I printed a spinner for a WRT member and it suffered during the drying step.

BTW, I print PLA at 210, bed at 60.

muddtt Watch Enthusiast

muddtt

Posted
Posted
12 hours ago, clockboy said:

My concern is do they  keep there shape when in the drying chamber

When i measured the temp, the baskets were coming out of the heating chamber at about 60-70C. Not an issue for ABS or HIPS.

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