Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

Hi All

 

First watch job as a novice watchmaker, I bought this Longines Cal 12.68z 1969 at the flea market as a scrap, and its shows jerky movement on the second hand skipping like 5 seconds every minute. The hands don't look right and the dials ... I leave it as is. If not for the Longines logo.. I can't identified this watch without opening it.

 

post-660-0-35649100-1429842917_thumb.jpg

 

On disassembling found it was the escape wheel that was damage, it's an old watch so I guess it's in pretty bad shape to start with.

 

post-660-0-27138900-1429843382_thumb.jpg

 

Ordered from ebay, and it took along time to reach me.

 

post-660-0-41345100-1429843471_thumb.jpg

 

Replace the wheel and one thing leads to another, on installing the click spring, the tiny screw decided to take flight. Ok I was using cheap tweezer, that remind me to get a good sets of tools. In the mean time I just dressed it to ensure no more aeroplane job for those many more screws.

 

post-660-0-29830000-1429843634_thumb.jpg

 

No way I could find that screw, it's the smallest of the smallest in this watch. So back to ebay and ordered a box of screws as I found some discussions about it here.. so another 2 weeks of waiting and it finally arrived and lucky me.. there's one that fit.

 

post-660-0-80587500-1429843750_thumb.jpg

 

BTW I did not dismantle the center wheel, I feel I am not up to it yet. Looks like it pressed fit and I don't dare to touch it at my present skill level.

 

post-660-0-56325700-1429845027_thumb.jpg

 

post-660-0-84674200-1429844057_thumb.jpg

 

It was over oiled and very dirty, I do not have a cleaning machine (yet) so a simple dip cleaning and some tooth pick will do for now. Assembling apart from the aeroplane incident goes without anymore surprises, just that I need to horned my skill and getting better tools. The balance wheel and pallet is a challenging part to me and all else is okay.

 

post-660-0-49996800-1429844241_thumb.jpg

 

I use Chinese made oil as lubricant at the moment and lube all the jewels, not reaching Moebius or Novastar level yet... so it more like Mario Brothers at level one... had to earn points before I go up scale.

 

post-660-0-95041800-1429844456_thumb.jpg

 

So here it is, nothing special it's a basic movement as a start, and I have lots more watch to do as practice pieces.

 

post-660-0-89231100-1429844558_thumb.jpg

 

On the wrist, hey.. this watch is older than me... I'm 53 and this old timer is 56 years old.. :)

 

post-660-0-10142900-1429844646_thumb.jpg

 

One thing I learn from this first job is... I need higher quality Screwdrivers and Tweezer for a start... time to get the credit card out.. I can't find high quality tool here in Kuala Lumpur.. most shop do the Chinese brand.. will try to get either A*F or Horotec sets.. a basic set will do for now. Suprisingly after 24 hrs.. running no further adjustment needed.. it's keeping good time.

 

There you go... Mario Bros at level ONE..

 

BTW.. anyone know what model is this watch.

Edited by Affnan
  • Like 3
Posted

Hi Affnan,

 

Great job! I'd say Mario at a high level, probably 6 out of 12? It's been a while I played that. :)

 

Although I can't say much about Longines and models, I can tell you one thing: That is an excellent watch you will definitely feel very proud to wear and a high quality one!

 

As far as the center wheel, it is "held in place" by the cannon pinion that needs to be extracted with the proper tool or the thick part of your tweezers (pulling straight up) on the "other" side of the plate (bottom or dial side). Once that pinion is out, the center wheel just pulls out like nothing, careful with the "center" jewel, it can be easily cracked. I normally take the cannon pinion first before disassembling the wheel train and after securing the hairspring in a safe location where it can't be damaged. Of course to get to the cannon pinion, dial and all the other stuff on that side may have to be removed first (or at least what is in the way depending on the movement). So, there you have it, time for Center wheel level 2!

 

Cheers,

 

Bob

  • Like 1
Posted

Hi Affnan,

 

great start and great watch.

 

I usually spend my time between Kuala Lumpur and Port Dickson. Which part of KL are you at?

 

There is a watch supplier around Jalan Sultan, in the old Furama Hotel, called Tai Sang. Not much watch parts but good tools available. Bergeon screwdrivers, tweezers etc.

 

Call me and maybe we can meet up one day..

 

Anil

  • Like 1
Posted

Affnan, that is a great start for a novice, also the longines is a very nice watch. It,s pity about the damage to the face because that is now a good watch most would like to wear. Quality tools as you have found is important but also with more experience you will have less mishaps & flyers.

​Enjoyed your post, can,t wait for your next one

  • Like 1
Posted

Thanks guys for the encouraging replys..  :woohoo-jumping-smiley-emoticon:

Anil I am in Subang Airport area, am thinking to drop by Tai Sang tomorrow for a look see.. at the same time may be able to pick up some cheap replicas at Petaling Street next door as practice watch.

Posted

Affnan, I can only echo all the others have said.

You bought a watch with a major problem, diagnosed the problem, sourced the part, then repaired and serviced it. Not only that, you took the time to take excellent photographs and document your progress. For your first job as an amateur commend you, as this can only encourage others. I look forward to reading more posts from you in the future. :)

  • Like 1
Posted

Respect to you Affnan - a good job! That movement is a very good one - typical Longines, beautifully made and finished - and well worth looking after.

  • Like 1
  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Hey Affnan you did a great job with that Longines! Hogh quality movement for sure.  Don't worry about not taking the cannon pinion or the center wheel off. I used to leave them on too when I started. One thing you already know is that good tools are essential and once you have those you'll be moving up in no time! By the way, the cannon pinion can be removed with tweezers like Bob mentioned or you can get a cannon pinion remover on the 'bay like I did....10 dollars.post-328-0-67735600-1431234268_thumb.jpg

 

But be warned, once you start on this hobby you'll want more tools, and then better tools, and then more watches to fix!

 

J

Posted

I have only just purchased one of these before I used to remove with tweezers. However a much better and safer way to remove with this tool.

Posted (edited)

Hi J

Yes for sure, the tools are building up. But will only purchase as needed, afraid of having more than I can handle.

There are never ending supply of watches to get fix, once my friends knows about my new hobby. All the dead watches from the closets are coming out, looks like I sure have tons of practice.

I do make a point to them that I am still at the Apprentice level :)

The very moment now I am assembling a Raymond Weil with ETA 955.412 movement with broken stem and smeared dail due to leaky battery.

497837df1d9cdc4a12f060858074d27f.jpg

Edited by Affnan
  • Like 1
  • Similar Content

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Hi, this is the first place I found when looking for advice so I hope someone could advise me.  Im completely new to touching watches but I’ve always wondered how they work.  I’ve bought a cheap movement, an ETA replica to take apart and rebuild.  Im thinking I’ll need some screwdrivers, tweezers, movement holder and a loop? My goal is just to have a go first and see if I enjoy it enough before buying more tools.  Do I buy cheap tools for now and get better quality tools later if I enjoy it like I think I will? or will the cheap tools be a pain and take some of the fun out of it?  With quality tools being relatively expensive I’m unsure what to buy.    Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
    • Yeah I have seen 44-56 documented for Elgin 18 size elsewhere. I have the style of gauge that's like a set of feeler gauges and I never noticed before today it is faintly stamped "Elgin". Pictured is the way I have been measuring. I am going to go to a larger jewel than the 42 that had been in there. I recently won an auction on a big set of Fitrite jewels all in the little bottles, to discover that the what's actually in the bottles bears no relation to the chart of sizes printed on the box. In most cases it seems to be all mixed so in fact I have about 24 little bottles and thousands of assorted jewels of all diameters and lengths, which is better than nothing. But since I don't have a micrometer with a table, measuring for the exact diameter will be a big job. Instead I will test a lot of them in the fork slot the same way I measure with the gauge. But this is still the next thing. I have to get the escapement to unlock first.
    • it would be nice to have the exact model of the watch the or a picture so we can see exactly what you're talking about. this is because the definition of Swiss watch could be a variety of things and it be helpful if we could see exactly the watch your dealing with then in professional watch repair at least some professionals they do pre-cleaned watches. In other words the hands and dial come off and the entire movement assembled goes through a cleaning machine sometimes I think a shorter bath perhaps so everything is nice and clean for disassembly makes it easier to look for problems. Then other professionals don't like pre-cleaning because it basically obliterates the scene of the crime. Especially when dealing with vintage watches where you're looking for metal filings and problems that may visually go away with cleaning. Then usually super sticky lubrication isn't really a problem for disassembly and typically shouldn't be a problem on a pallet fork bridge because there shouldn't be any lubrication on the bridge at all as you typically do not oil the pallet fork pivots.  
    • A few things you should find out before you can mske a decision of what to do. As Richard said, what is the crown and all of the crown components made of . Then also the stem .  The crown looks to have a steel washer that retains a gasket. So be careful with what chemicals you use to dissolve any stem adhesives or the use of heat. You might swell or melt the gasket unless you are prepared to change that also . The steel washer maybe reactive to alum. Something I've just used to dissolve a broken screw from a plate. First drilled out the centre of the screw with a 0.5mm carbide . Dipped only the section that held the broken screw in Rustins rust remover. This is 40 % phosphoric acid. 3 days and the screw remains were completely dissolved, no trace of steel in the brass threads. A black puddle left in the solution.
    • I suppose this will add to the confusion I have a roller jewel assortment. It lists out American pocket watches for Elgin 18 size and even 16 size it's a 50. But not all the various companies used 50-50 does seem to be common one company had a 51 and the smallest is 43. American parts are always interesting? Francis Elgin for mainsprings will tell you the thickness of the spring other companies will not even though the spring for the same number could come in a variety of thicknesses. But if we actually had the model number of your watch we would find it probably makes a reference that the roller jewel came in different dimensions. So overlook the parts book we find that? So it appears to be 18 and 16 size would be the same sort of the arson different catalog numbers and as I said we don't have your Mongol know which Log number were supposed to be using. Variety of materials garnered her sapphire single or double but zero mention about diameters. Then in a section of rollers in this case rollers with jewels we do get this down in the notes section Roller specifications but of course zero reference to the jewel size. I was really hoping the roller jewel assortment would give us sizes it doesn't really. But it does show a picture of how one particular roller jewel gauge is used  
×
×
  • Create New...