Jump to content

I am new and need to learn more


Jannie

Recommended Posts

Hello and welcome to the forum.  That's a nice pair of carriage clocks Possibly french.  Bothe will have platform escapements which could be either Cylinder or lever. As regards fixing them your self without experience is a dangerous thought, at this point they both require professional treatment, An overhaul to get them back into pristine condition.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thank you for your introduction and welcome to this friendly forum.

Looking at the picture showing both clocks

Both are probably French. Both have white enamelled dials with Roman Numerals again both have the hand style of spade. The clock case on the left is the classic style case, the one on the right is the style called serpentine and both are brass.  You have taken photos of the movement that is in the serpentine case, this is an 8 day movement with a cylinder platform, which is not compensated, this means depending on weather conditions it might very in time keeping. It also looks in a bad way and needs polishing and cleaning. Without seeing the other movement I can’t comment on that. If there is no identification on the movements I would say anything from 1850 to 1900.    

Without experience in the field of clock repairs I do not recommend you undertaking the work yourself. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

17 hours ago, Jannie said:

Need advice on what clocks I have and how to date it. 

In my family we have a piece practically identical to the smaller one plus alarm, which after many decades of being only a decoration I have repaired and restored. The cylinder was broken and carried signs of a botched previous attempt. I was able to repair thanks to my Mentor that has an assortment of cylinders plus all the related knowledge and then some. I still have make a detailed posting about. Replacing a cylinder is not difficult but neither something a beginner without tools and experience should try.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

9 hours ago, oldhippy said:

Thank you for your introduction and welcome to this friendly forum.

Looking at the picture showing doth clocks

Both are probably French. Both have white enamelled dials with Roman Numerals again both have the hand style of spade. The clock case on the left is the classic style case, the one on the right is the style called serpentine and both are brass.  You have taken photos of the movement that is in the serpentine case, this is an 8 day movement with a cylinder platform, which is not compensated, this means depending on weather conditions it might very in time keeping. It also looks in a bad way and needs polishing and cleaning. Without seeing the other movement I can’t comment on that. If there is no identification on the movements I would say anything from 1850 to 1900.    

Without experience in the field of clock repairs I do not recommend you undertaking the work yourself. 

Thank you for this valuable information. Can you give me any recommendations on who can help me as mentioned 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 5/1/2021 at 5:09 PM, Jannie said:

Thank you for this valuable information. Can you give me any recommendations on who can help me as mentioned 

If you go to the BHI (British Horological Institute) web site they list accredited watch makers by area and country. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well, not only did I inherit a box-o-watches, I inherited a wall-o-clocks.  This post reminded me of the carriage clock I have.  I took it off the shelf, disassembled it, cleaned and oiled.  Note:  this was not a professional cleaning...just wanted to see if it had a prayer of working.  It is working great.

There is an issue with the regulator arm that normally sits underneath the plate with access through the half moon slot.  Somewhere along the way of its life, it was either lost and replaced with one too short, or someone ground it down or whatever.  I need to make a new piece--should be straightforward.

This is not an expensive one like the OP, but nice.

 

2021-05-02 08_03_24-Photos.png

2021-05-02 08_03_12-Photos.png

2021-05-02 08_02_54-Photos.png

2021-05-03 07_56_04-Photos.png

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Yes, I was referring to the (jewelled) gear train with HP (most of the time, I use 1300, but when Rolex says 1000, I'll use 1000).
    • did I miss the update of the message of something changing?      
    • I suppose it would depend upon what your lubricating with those? for instance what does the manufacturer say about those lubricants? I have a PDF from the manufacture and a rather peculiar statement found on the bottom of the chart. my suspicion is the reason the recommending would be without epilam the HP oils like the spread except when they're in Ruby jewel's with steel pivots. tableEN lubrication 2020.pdf
    • These types of hairsprings become weak with age and very fragile. Which I expect it is that giving you trouble, and that wheel is not the correct one, if it were not bent I don't think the movement would run as the teeth are not the correct height. The problem you have is price which depends on you. It can be repaired but is it worth it to you, because there is little value in the clock. A wheel can be made and hairspring replaced. Or hang on to it and keep looking on ebay which is your best bet for replacement parts or even a complete movement but it will be like finding a needle in a haystack. 
    • I did that also for a few movements - well, mainly in/around the train jewels. I made big efforts to epilame the mainplate WITHOUT getting Epilame into the Pallet fork jewels (where it's not supposed to be, right?). I made litte barriers with Rodico around that jewel and used drops from a syringe to apply on the rest.  However, I've now stopped doing this. For three reasons: 1. It's a hassle and consumes more of this liquid gold. 2. I didn't see the need when using HP1000/HP1300 lubricants and grease for most part. The two places where I'd use 9010 (i.e. escape wheel and balance) receive Epilame in specific places... or the cap-jewel-setting of the balance suspends the oil sufficiently be capillary action (see my "conflict" about using Epilame on the balance jewels).  3. Lastly, and here I really wonder about yours and others' experiences: I felt that applying Epliame to the train jewels left them looking hazy (borderline dirty) compared to the (painstakingly achieved) sparkly clean results of my cleaning process. I just can't help but think that the Epilame residuals would mix with the oil and cause more friction/wear. I don't know.    simple: it'll stay there. It won't move any further. That's exactly what is happening if you epilame a cap stone. You end up placing the 9010 right on top of the epilame and the oil will sit nicely on that spot.
×
×
  • Create New...