Jump to content

Little French traveler clock


Endeavor

Recommended Posts

6 hours ago, rodabod said:

.... and does it look any better when held upside-down?

Just out of bed, tried the up-side-down and the clock stops. Also the speed-up / slow-down frequency suggest the escape-wheel rpm. Will dig into later today ...... first ??

Edited by Endeavor
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hmm ........ interesting !

Removed the balance assembly and (hand driving the train) adjusted the platform until the escape-wheel ran smooth. Checked all the escape-wheel wedges; there is some wear, but they all seem equally "worn".

S20210325_001.jpg.62ff3f6747941e4b66e265b2310806eb.jpg

Checked the end shake and the side-shake of escape wheel and balance assembly, both do have some but what I would consider within reason. Checked the pivots, they all seem straight, correct length and smooth.

S20210325_002.jpg.cf831674a85d52b36f4c1979d19d02bc.jpg

Now with the platform adjusted, the clock runs in any position, including upside down.

Made a mark on the escape-wheel to see if the dot during speed-up (causing a lower amplitude) matches each time up with the slower period (bigger amplitude); it doesn't ! That's to say that with the dot on the escape wheel at one point when the balance amplitude decreases and the speed-up occurs, at the next speed-up the dot has advanced about a 1/4 of a turn. I would guesstimate that the speed-up occurs every 1-1/4 turn of the escape wheel; each revolution the dot advances about a 1/4 of a turn before the next speed-up . This means to me that it is not a particular set of escape wheel teeth that are causing the problem. I can not see the hairspring or its coils touching anywhere. It also seems that the speed-up period is much shorter than the slow-down period; again a guesstimate, 5 teeth speed-up followed by the rest slowing down and increasing amplitude.

Any ideas where to look next are very welcome ?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I know 99%of problems are with the escapement on time pieces, but I always re check all wheel assemblies, I start by placing either the intermediate wheel or centre wheel ( depends on if you have an intermediate wheel ok ) between the plates to check freedom of movement and endshake etc, I then remove it and place the 3rd wheel between the plates and do the same checks, and the the escape wheel. The I place the first two wheel that mesh in together and do the same, then remove one ie the centre wheel and leave the 3rd wheel but also install the escape wheel, do this until you are sure all are fine. Then you know the problem is going to be with the escapement and you can concentrate on that alone.

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I oiled a few of the escape wheel teeth with Dr.Tillwich 1-3, probably equivalent with the thin Moebius 9010.

Sorry, misunderstood; all the balance & escape jewels were oiled with Dr.Tillwich 3-5, which is a slightly thicker oil than the Moebius 9010

Edited by Endeavor
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I know it's difficult in helping when you only have photos to go by. It looks like wear on the cylinder and the tip of the pivot staff looks worn at the tip. With a cylinder escapement if the balance speeds up or slows down it is normally the cylinder or the escape wheel teeth or both. How are the jewels? Do they look good clean and no marks.   

S20210325_002.jpg.cf831674a85d52b36f4c1979d19d02bc.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'll study the escapement and its behavior today.

My suspicion is that something is happening in the escapement. The frequency at which the irregularity occurs doesn't really match up with the speed of any of the other wheels in the train.

It is as if when the amplitude increases and the clock starts to run at quiet more regular pace, something causes a short burst of rapid "escapes", causing the amplitude to decrease to a quick succession of balance wheel movements. Perhaps once the balance wheel is "calmed down", it starts up again to "normal" until the amplitude reaches and certain amount of degrees. We "know" that it is not caused by a particular set of escape-teeth but it seems more caused by, or due to the increase of the amplitude.

I also can't remember that the clock ran this irregular before the service. What for sure has since altered is the shape of the hairspring and the slightly higher (≈0.8mm) hairspring collet

To rule out a sudden re-occurring vibration in the bearings, I can oil the jewels with heavy clock oil.

I added some additional cylinder shots, just in case something "off" is spotted. If other shots are preferred / required, please let me know .....

S20210325_003.jpg.8dadd38755df590cede18e976b37e4b0.jpg

S20210325_005.jpg.bb684c85894c9250b86a1d07350e7351.jpg

S20210325_006.jpg.67816557b1f1ffd6b6c1399a4f00f0ad.jpg

Edited by Endeavor
Link to comment
Share on other sites

As I mentioned, the speed-up & slow down doesn't seems to happen at the same escape-wheel spot. The dot I made on the escape-wheel shifts by about 1/4 turn before the next irregularity. Therefor I concluded that it is certainly not the same set of teeth causing the problem, as it seems to happen with any set of teeth.

I also oiled the escape and balance jewels with thick clock-oil, but that did not made any difference.

If in the end it turns out to be general wear, I guess I'm done and the clock will be "as is" ?

However, I will observe and have to think a little what could cause this phenomena. As said, I can't recall that the clock ran like this before, so something has changed and perhaps the cause sits in what was changed(?).

I have to give it some time and thoughts .....

Thank you for all the help so far ?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That was very good thinking & question and it could have been ...... the pinion has 8 leaves, much less than the number of escape-teeth. If the pinion would have had more leaves than the number of escape teeth, it could have well been the answer !? Than again, one revolution of the escape is one revolution of the pinion ?

I double cleaned the pinion leaves, but sadly no difference .....

I'm sure it's one of those "time will tell" problems ?

Edited by Endeavor
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Another thing I will mention which is sometimes overlooked by “watchies” like me and less so by the “clockies”:

When you check the free-running of the train with the balance removed, it really needs to be under load so that the side-thrust of the wheels changes the depthing. People sometimes inspect individual pairs of wheels by letting one slip through their finger (to create resistance) while turning the other. It should feel smooth and not lumpy. Trying this with all wheels fitted sometimes masks the issue due to the fact that the entire weight of the train has momentum (a bit like a flywheel). 
 

So, in short, always check the free-running of the train, but try to also do it under load where possible. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 years later...

Hey I’ve got the exact same clock purchased from ebay, needs a new mainspring barrel as some teeth are missing and also some adjustment to the escapement. Any advice on where I might be able to find another barrel (other than ebay) would be helpful. Thanks in advance.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Welcome! To which part of India will my greetings go? Frank
    • I agree with @Waggy, no need to adjust. That looks very good to me. The factory specs for 7S26 are something like -35 to +45s/day, but they are usually better. The amplitude is good. When wearing, the most important positions are dial up, crown down and crown left. You need to regulate so that these positions average out to about zero. Crown down is showing +14, so you may have to set dial up to slightly minus s/day. The absolute values of +/-s/day don't really matter, as long as they aren't too far out. The only way to get good accuracy is to wear it for a couple of days, recording the errors, and gradually tweaking.
    • @Jon The link is no longer working and I wanted to see that demonstration again. Is there any chance you can make it available again? I'd appreciate it!
    • Or, if you have a staking set or jewelling too, just use one of the stumps. You can choose a fine tip to fit inside a jewel if necessary.
    • Good morning,   To be honest, I'm not sure I trust my own logic anymore 😅. But here's a picture of my own (failed!) attempt to install a new rotor axle. I punched way to hard and even split the metal of the rotor. My thinking was that, in my case, the axle sits "deeper" in the rotor and hence the rotor would be closer to the movement plates. Vice versa, I was thinking that a very light punch could cause the rotor to sit rather high. But not sure that makes sense because in both cases, the flat part of the axle and the rotor align equally.     Sorry, but is he saying that the outside of the caseback has been polished to such an extent that the inside of the caseback has deformed/sunk??? That sounds crazy to me because those casebacks are thick! Can you see any signs of that on the inside of the caseback? Have you tried screwing in the caseback a litte bit more or less so that the supposedly "sunk" part of the caseback would move from 9 o'clock to e.g. 6/7 or 11/12 o'clock?  If the caseback is truly deformed, maybe it could be punched/pressed back into shape (e.g. with glass/caseback closing press).      I agree with your choice. But yea, Rolex makes it VERY hard for independent watchmakers to do a perfect job because we can't get (original) parts easily.      Your pictures aren't too bad. But still impossible to see if the rotor isn't perfectly flat. You'd have to look at it with your loupe, from the side (like the pictures), and turn the rotor to see if the gaps (with the automatic bridge plates) increase/decrease.     Finally... how is the up/down play of the rotor? To test, take a toothpick/pegwood and press on the small triangular side of the rotor next to the axle (NOT the big side where the weight is. But the opposite side.). Does that lift up the weight-side of the rotor? There can be some play, but it should really be minimal. If there's too much play, a new spring clip is the first thing to do. After that, one could play around with the jewels. This is too much:
×
×
  • Create New...