Jump to content

Identifying Landeron Balance

evese

By evese
in Watch Repairs Help & Advice

 Share

Recommended Posts

evese New Member

evese

Posted
Posted

Hi all, hope your having a good day!

I have finally got back to restoring a Landeron movement, a personal project I started a while back. I believe it is an early cal. 48 although it may be a 47? The balance was one of the many issues with the watch. With a broken pivot on the staff and the balance spring beyond fixing, without buying professional tools finding a complete balance would be the easiest way for me to fix the issue.

I am at a complete loss as to what balance I need; I know its a non-incabloc, possibly made by either Barbell or Renata but I'm not sure what I should be looking for, or where to find one. There are many variants and I'm not sure if any of the calibers of Landeron house the same balance that I might be able to utilise?  

I've attached a picture of the movement before I disassembled if it's to any use? Any help is very much appreciated!

Many thanks 

image.thumb.png.f23b5b954bcb159b2887c1af1114a3d1.png

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
HSL Distinguished Member

HSL

Posted
Posted (edited)

One way to see if you got a Landeron 47 or Landeron 48 is to look at the operating lever and the flyback lever they have a different setup and look on the Landeron 47. The chronograph bridge fitts all of them almost and might been changed some time so that can't be used as a clue to the caliber.  I would say this one is a Landeron 48.
I post a tech sheet of the two where the difference is clearly seen.Landeron.thumb.png.8ed590da312d6f1f5262e8f4c6bf4571.png

 

When it comes to the balance staff there are quite a bunch to choose from.

CaseCaliber     BestFit                                            FactoryNumber                          Description

LAN 48 (CD1)  100/1076           STAFF/LAN 148                            BESTFIT BALANCE STAFF

LAN 48 (CD1)  100/1713           100/1713                                        BESTFIT BALANCE STAFF

LAN 48 (CD1)  100/1713           STAFF/LAN 149                            BESTFIT BALANCE STAFF

LAN 48 (CD1)  100/2710           *724                                                BESTFIT BALANCE STAFF

LAN 48 (CD1)  100/2710           *724/LAN 148                              BESTFIT BALANCE STAFF

LAN 48 (CD1)  100/428             728/LAN 48                                   BESTFIT BALANCE STAFF

LAN 48 (CD1)  100/431B          STAFF/LAN 154                            BESTFIT BALANCE STAFF

LAN 48 (CD1)  100/767E           724/LAN 185                                BESTFIT BALANCE STAFF

Yours have no INCA block so with those ones I been most lucky with the RONDA 4937 staff.
But which balance complete you should choose I wouldn’t dear to guess.

While you are at it you might put a minute jumper on your shopping list.

 

Edited by HSL
Link to comment
Share on other sites
evese New Member

evese

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thank HLS, I though it was an early cal. 48 from between 1937-1939, you've confirmed my suspicions. As for the balance; it is looking less promising that I will be able to find a complete one that fits ? I really appreciate your help though.

I have already sourced all the other broken/missing components, the balance is my last quest to source. So far the parts have cost more twice a much as the price I bought the movement for, I was hoping it would be a cheap project ?   

Link to comment
Share on other sites
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Bonefixer
      FHF70 balance jewels settings

      By Bonefixer · Posted

      Latest project was a non-running ebay purchase with an FHF70 movement. I stripped and cleaned it, reassembled it, and got it running. So far so good, nothing damaged AFAIK.  I was oiling the top jewel on the balance (the one in the cock) which was a slightly unusual shock setting. I removed the spring (3 leaves) which was part of a chaton holding the cap jewel. This left the hole jewel behind which I retrieved with rodico and then lost it. I was taking it off the rodico, very gently as I thought, with tweezers, and then it just disappeared.  Fast forward a week, I got a donor movement, non-running, with the plan to just take the shock jewel that I’d lost. It was the same movement but had standard incabloc settings, and was steel rather than copper/brass.  I changed the cock and balance complete and it ran, not very well. I switched the lower jewel setting, cleaned and oiled both jewels and the replacement balance. Without the pallet fork the balance swings very nicely with a puff of air. With the fork in place, balance out, it flicks side to side nicely with power in the mainspring.  Put them together and it doesn’t run. The impulse jewel sits in the fork and it stops.      Any suggestions how I proceed? In case you didn’t follow that I have 2 FHF70 movements, nothing broken as far as I can tell, but mixing up the balance wheels and jewel settings results in a non runner. 
    • Neverenoughwatches
      Part swapper to part maker

      By Neverenoughwatches · Posted

      Oh and this almost perfect third wheel pivot and slightly set mainspring  Ah ok yes i see what you mean, good idea. I'll try that if i fluff this one up. The image isn't great quality but i like the idea though.
    • RichardHarris123
      Part swapper to part maker

      By RichardHarris123 · Posted

      Why cut the paper, cut a square around the image and grind to it. 
    • Neverenoughwatches
      Part swapper to part maker

      By Neverenoughwatches · Posted

      I did try that last time Rich , i traced the image from the Bestfit book which is the actual size. But its more difficut to cut the shape from paper than it is to grind the steel to shape. This way is pretty easy and the final shaping is done when fitting the part. There are a couple of things i will do differently next time, clamping the 2 pieces together with a drill press will help to hold while scribing the shape in. This was a bit tricky having only one hole, if using the pins and cork the drill size needs to match the pin diameter so there is no movement at all from the template. This movement hasn't finished frying me yet, damaged thread in the plate crown wheel hole and two rubbed in cracked jewels, thats gonna be much more fun.
    • Neverenoughwatches
      A big thank you.

      By Neverenoughwatches · Posted

      👍 Whats not to follow OH ?  You're every inch a pro and a true gent, i always enjoy reading your answers even some of the clock stuff that i dont have a clue about. 
×
×
  • Create New...