Sourced on ebay some relatively inexpensive Landeron 3 watch. Looks like 30ties, all original. 40mm diameter without crown.
Watch was sold for parts or repairs. This is all info what I got from seller:
Watch looks very dirty (I will not wonder if that dirt is still from war)...
Balance completely disassembled, but all parts present (in the same box as watch, at least hairspring was in container).
One of the pusher levers is broken (but broken piece is there).
Other pusher was not properly installed (fixed that already).
Foil disc from under dial is also there inside the box.
Dial was not tightened enough, so small register seconds hand was hanging around under scratched glass.
Mainspring was fully wounded.
I don't know what to think about that... I mean, I am a beginner, but at least I wouldn't left wounded mainspring, and probably disassembled balance parts I wouldn't just throw in a box with the watch.
When I look at the balance staff, it doesn't look so bad to me (see the pics and comment please, I might be wrong), so I wonder, why it's disassembled. Could it be, that watch stopped working because of dirt/old oil, and someone unexperienced decided that balance needs to be disassembled?
Any ideas where to start? I was thinking about bringing it to watchmaker to check/assemble the balance, and see if it swings more or less fine, and after that start with cleaning/oiling.
P.S. Does anyone has spare pusher levers for this movement? Or could some laser welding work to fix broken one, or that will not be strong enough?
And any suggestions about hands - should I restore them (blue layer is coming off at some parts) or keep them "patinated" as they are?
Do you oil the shouldered “safety” screws that hold in place the coupling clutch 8080, the sliding gear 8100 or the hammer 8219? If so, do you also put a very tiny drop of hp 1300 under them?
you can find the entire doc here: http://watchguy.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/Le-Landeron-48.pdf
Since I was working on the Landeron 48 with wrong dial, from which I used the case and a Landeron 151 and correct dial to make a new watch, I saw this Landeron 248 sitting in the drawer at my desk and devided to finally tackle the issue it had: a slipping mainspring.
I documented the disassembly of the movement vith 3 videos, the first of which is here below:
Hope you enjoy
Some of you already know that I bought myself as a birthday present, and to celebrate the birth of my first daughter, a Landeron 248 based Chronograph to restore / fix, and that I thought that it was a redial. Here the thread about it:
Apparently it is not only the case ot a simple redial (albeit with a wrong dial which was adapted) but what I would define as "watchmaker's botchery", since the dial itself was fixed to the case with 2 screws (and from the front side...):
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Hi gurus, I'm working on an ETA 1164 triple calendar movement and the day disc does not line up well with its window, see picture. The jumper action seems fine and there are three jumpers for the date mechanism which are all identical. Has anyone incurred such issues before with this movement? Is the only remedy to adjust the profile of the jumper? -- Best regards, Stian
Yes it does, but not enough to endanger the fitting of the pivot into the hole. Burnishing removes the faint marks left in the steel after turning/alteration due to wear or cutting a new pivot. It creates an extremely fine finish, like a mirror finish. It also helps in the rotation of the pivot, preventing it from binding in the hole. If you gauged before and after I don’t think it would change, providing the work has been carried out correctly.
Enicar had two type of caseback.. the bayonet type and a screw type. The giveaway is a little triangle around the edge of the caseback. I believe this was supposed to line up with a reference on the case.. or maybe the crown. Good job figuring it out, took me a while too! Anilv
I’m inclined to agree with what JohnR says. But I’d also like to add some of my own cynicism which is that I think that the snake oil manufacturers will sell you anything if they can see a gap in the market. But, I can see why it makes sense to have something very slippery and less likely to be pushed away than a light synthetic oil. That possibly is more important for high beat movement where there is a greater velocity. With regards to “which is best”, I don’t think anyone should offer any opinions unless they have revisited work they have completed over a span of several years. I’ve been using 9415 for several years, but I’m yet to investigate its effectiveness long term.