Hi all, hope your having a good day!
I have finally got back to restoring a Landeron movement, a personal project I started a while back. I believe it is an early cal. 48 although it may be a 47? The balance was one of the many issues with the watch. With a broken pivot on the staff and the balance spring beyond fixing, without buying professional tools finding a complete balance would be the easiest way for me to fix the issue.
I am at a complete loss as to what balance I need; I know its a non-incabloc, possibly made by either Barbell or Renata but I'm not sure what I should be looking for, or where to find one. There are many variants and I'm not sure if any of the calibers of Landeron house the same balance that I might be able to utilise?
I've attached a picture of the movement before I disassembled if it's to any use? Any help is very much appreciated!
Hello everyone. I have a really sad story and I am a complete amateur. I am a machinist for a living so I thought I would give a crack at making a frankenwatch, however it did not go as planned and now I have a movement with subdials that don’t work and a whole lot of parts and money invested and I don’t know what to do. I need the help of a professional. The donor movement was a NOS, new old stock, and was running perfectly, however I messed up almost everything attempting to make this watch. I will happily ship all of the parts needed to complete this watch and pay for any repair that need to be made and for the return shipping. I need the help of a professional how can repair and assemble the watch with the parts and return it to me. I will pay for everything, the labor, replacement parts, return shipping, I just need someone’s help.
Details about the project:
movement: valjoux 7733
dial: vintage NOS angelus chronograph dial
case: custom machined case
UG Tri-Compax Chronograph (centre) seconds hand can’t turn past 58.5 seconds and the whole watch stops tickingBy IOB
I have a UG Tri-Compax from the 1950s or 60s (Calibre 281): The chronograph (centre) seconds hand can’t turn past 58.5 seconds and the whole watch stops ticking/working (nothing moving/turning in the movement). However, when the reset pusher (4 o’clock) is kept pressed, it enables the seconds hand and watch to move/tick again. The reset pusher is released when the chrono seconds hand reaches 60: the watch resumes ticking and the hands move until the chrono seconds hand reaches 58.5s again. The process is repeated.
It has been noticed that if the watch is held face down then the reset pusher “procedure” doesn’t always work (i.e. the watch does not resume ticking/moving). It’s usually necessary to turn the watch over and try to press the pusher a few times in order to make the seconds hands move again.
The 30-minute sub-dial at 3 o’clock has stopped working, too.
If the chrono is not activated, then the watch seems to run properly.
What do you think is the problem?
Thanks for your insight!
I wanted to share my restoration stories that I have done for a long time and thrown into my archive. First I discussed the Atomic Mars 71 Brand using Valjoux 7734.
As it was seen, scratch and dial is broken. To begin with, I tried to brush the Case as Brushed and make it the first day. If it is decorated, I polished and re-painted the indexes (with acrylic paint). I usually do this in three layers so that the paint is not deleted in a short time.
I replaced the case buttons and tubes with aftermarket buttons.
Since the condition of the dial was in very poor condition, I had it re-painted. The quality is not so good. In Turkey, unfortunately, not doing the job well.
Caliber 7734 (Valjoux) is a special and robust mechanism for me. With good maintenance and lubrication, you can reduce deflection values up to 3-4 seconds per day. I added a short timelapse video about it :)
As a result, such a result came before us.
I want to show you my lately restoration project. This time it was a Seiko 7015-8000 with blue dial. Watch came to me in very poor condition. As you can see on photos the case was scratchty, crystal was totaly tarnished with deep scratches. Everywhere was dirt, gunk and mud...yuck. Movement was running and stopping with very low amplitude. After opened the caseback I wasn't suprised - it looked like as case - dirt and signs of wear. Rotor was loose and fall out the case. When I take off the crystall I saw dial which had faded Seiko logo, some scratches and hands which lost their lume.
Next step was strip down the movement - everywhere dirt and dry old oil. Time to cleaning bath
Look at this - it's my temporary balance wheel stand - I suspect that from temporary it will be permanent. It does job well.
After cleaning it's time to assembly movement. Now it looks better - maybe not pristine but clean and shiny. New oil here and there and movement starts to run. Now it's time for bench testing before install it to the case.
Meanwhile I took care of the case, dial and hands. Case got some polishing work - not to much cause I didn't want to loose the sharpness of edges. That is effect:
Dial and hands got new lume - I am not perfect in this work but I still learn to do this. Additional the seconds hand was repainted to orange color. I didn't change the crystall but i just polished it with waterpaper and on the end polish paste. Effect suprissed me. Time for the pleasant work - putting this all pieces together into the watch.
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After taking apart an entire watch for cleaning, what system do you use to remember in what order to reassemble it. I understand(assume) it's in reverse order but all the parts get mixed up in the cleaning process so you also have to remember which parts belong together.
The outer watch case back looks as though it may have had some markings but they are long since worn away. However, the inside of the watch case back has a few markings which look hand inscribed rather than stamped. They are: addio ABABA N94P8/43 189168 SJN + JHN Do these mean anything to anyone?
Thank you nicklesilver and Nucejoe. I'll give those suggestions a try. I experienced parts flying out of the cheap ($4), stiff set of tweezers I started with. These tweezers encourage a more delicate touch.
Visual comparison of pivot's OD on new and old arbours is near impossible, I guess they are the same or about the same, since the new pivot did fit into the jewel, if the fork doesn't move freely something is wrong there. common causes are; craked jewel, thick or bent pivots, coned pivot fitted into flat jewels.