Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

So, I'm looking for an inexpensive supply of steel hands to practice heat bluing with.

Looking at esslinger.com, there are lots of "silver" hands available for a reasonable price. E.g.: 114 Piece White Multi-Style Watch Hands, White Dauphine Style Hour and Minute Hands, etc.

There are also, of course, a myriad of cheap silver Chinese hands available on eBay.

Does anyone know what metal inexpensive "silver" hands are typically made out of? I'm very, very new to this, and honestly don't know whether hands are typically steel, anodized aluminum, or whatever ...

Thanks in advance for any tips and advice!

Posted
2 hours ago, dpn said:

So, I'm looking for an inexpensive supply of steel hands to practice heat bluing with.

Looking at esslinger.com, there are lots of "silver" hands available for a reasonable price. E.g.: 114 Piece White Multi-Style Watch Hands, White Dauphine Style Hour and Minute Hands, etc.

There are also, of course, a myriad of cheap silver Chinese hands available on eBay.

Does anyone know what metal inexpensive "silver" hands are typically made out of? I'm very, very new to this, and honestly don't know whether hands are typically steel, anodized aluminum, or whatever ...

Thanks in advance for any tips and advice!

Steel is what you want. Preferably stainless. Get a magnet- good quality 304, 306, 316 stainless alloy will be non magnetic. Try ofrei and kas-ker. otherwise vintage NOS is always good but like we talked about-can get spendy. 

Otherwise some can be cheap tin or aluminium. Even plastic. 

  • Like 1
Posted

Stainless steel won't blue; I don't know of any watch hands being made of it either.

If the supplier doesn't state or know the material check them with a magnet. Hands can be almost any material from gold to plastic but brass and steel are the most common.

  • Like 1
Posted

Cheap hands are often plated base-metal. That base metal could be brass, or something similar. 
 

 

  • Like 1
Posted
3 hours ago, nickelsilver said:

Stainless steel won't blue; I don't know of any watch hands being made of it either.

If the supplier doesn't state or know the material check them with a magnet. Hands can be almost any material from gold to plastic but brass and steel are the most common.

Yeah, they're out there. All modern day stuff. Micro brands.   Depending what grade and carbon content they contain  they will turn color tho. Manufcrs. don't list the grades tho lol. Just keep my trusty magnet handy. melted a plastic set once..

Posted
14 hours ago, yankeedog said:

Some type of ferrous mystery metal typically, anything else is more expensive.

Especially vintage NOS

Posted

I've got my propane torch, my IR thermometer, my brass scarf, my brass heating box, and my polishing stuff all either here or on the way. 

I honestly didn't think that finding steel hands was going to be the hard part! *grin*

I can practice a lot with screws and old blued hands, but if I want to actually make usable hands I'm going to need to figure out a supplier.

Interestingly, Esslinger has been super quick to reply to my parts inquiries. My inquiry about what makes up their "silver" hands has been met with silence, so I agree they're likely to be some kind of mystery anodized or coated base metal.

This has been, and will continue to be, a fascinating exercise. I'm going to be cross-posting on the NAWCC forums, since there's a lot of good heat-bluing info there. Maybe someone will have a good supplier they'll be willing to share.

Posted

The better the quality of the steel and with practice the better the bluing will be, you should have an even blue colour all the same. I always quenched clock hands and screws in oil, it would give a shine look and not a dull finish.  

Posted
8 hours ago, dpn said:

I've got my propane torch, my IR thermometer, my brass scarf, my brass heating box, and my polishing stuff all either here or on the way. 

I honestly didn't think that finding steel hands was going to be the hard part! *grin*

I can practice a lot with screws and old blued hands, but if I want to actually make usable hands I'm going to need to figure out a supplier.

Interestingly, Esslinger has been super quick to reply to my parts inquiries. My inquiry about what makes up their "silver" hands has been met with silence, so I agree they're likely to be some kind of mystery anodized or coated base metal.

This has been, and will continue to be, a fascinating exercise. I'm going to be cross-posting on the NAWCC forums, since there's a lot of good heat-bluing info there. Maybe someone will have a good supplier they'll be willing to share.

Where did you find the swarf and heat tray?

Posted
7 hours ago, oldhippy said:

same. I always quenched clock hands and screws in oil, it would give a shine look and not a dull finish.  

Do you every get the black tar-like crud on them when you do this? Ever had and luck with just air cool down?

Posted

If its screws after they have be cleaned and polished, I would put them in an old watch cleaning machine to make sure all dirt got completely removed, crud can be caused by bluing something that still has dirt or grease on it. Hands would be washed in soft soap and warm water and dried in a lint free cloth before bluing. 

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Hope you let the mainspring completely unwind before removing the bridge? Use not only a screwdriver, but a pair of good tweezers with curved ends. This will allow to move various sides of the bridge straight up while keeping it in parallel with the main plate. If you use a screwdriver only and top pivot is stuck, then a bridge is being lifted under angle and then you hear that "horrible click". Usually it takes only one instance to learn such lesson in life 😅
    • Regarding the spring winders, I made my own and used copper pipe reducers as the tubes to retain the spring. You will need to cut out a section for the end of the spring to protrude but if you watch one of the many videos on this subject that will make sense. You can find a selection of sizes on Ebay for very little cost. I'll attach a pic showing one of mine.  Good luck!
    • There were things bothering me about this discussion that took me a while to figure out the problem. In the image below it appears to be the spring may be pushing up? Normally when Omega has a spring pushing up the pinion has a pivot with a bridge to hold it in place so in other words the spring can push on something that stationary as opposed to this which appears to be floating? To understand the problem with the above image we need another image of side view which I have below. In my image down below on the left-hand side it agrees with the image up above. But the only problem is the left-hand side is defective and the right-hand side image is the way it's supposed to look. Then Omega if you can access the right documents does explain how and why this problem occurs. With the pinion floating around it might be assumed that you support it when putting on all the hands but you do not because as noted below if you do this small bush on the pinion will relocate out of position exactly what we see in the image up above.   Then Omega does not mention this but there is a possibility of also damaging the pinion and causing the bush to move to where it's not supposed to be when removing the hands.   
    • Maybe show us 1) the watch, 2) timegrapher readings in DU, DD, PU, and PD.
    • The timegrapher displays significant beat error variations in the dial-up position. When the watch is lying flat (face up), the beat error is much higher than in other positions. Beat error readings are inconsistent, with especially large gaps in the face-up position.  Please help !  
×
×
  • Create New...