Jump to content

Ulysse Nardin vintage watch running fast


Recommended Posts

Hello All,

I have a vintage Ulysse Nardin watch from 40s-50s that is running very fast, about 2 hours in every 24 hour cycle.  The watch has been demagnetized, and the balance spring checked. The balance regulator has little effect on the watch speed.  Is this watch a candidate for a good cleaning or is there possibly another problem to check?

Thanks for the help.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

17 minutes ago, cduke said:

The watch has been demagnetized, and the balance spring checked.

I would check it again, look at the timegrapher pattern, and even at the sound waveform, because likely the spring is touching.
In any case a 70 years old watch is always  a great candidate for servicing.

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

It may be a simple fix. If the H/spring is not inside the regulator adjusting pins it will run just very fast and moving the regular arm will make no difference whatsoever. Well worth a check. 9 out of 10 times running fast is an escape issue. If confident it is not the escape a loose cannon pinion will be the issue. 

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Can you post picture of HS from top of the cock view.

Oscilator runs fast if the active length of HS is shorter than should be, which happens  if the last circle of the coil get stuck behind stud  or boot of the regulator arm, another possibility is if two outer circles get inside the regualtor slot. 

I gather you mean hairspring look Ok by " hairspring checked" .  It can look alright but run fast if too short or stiff.

 

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 7/10/2020 at 2:27 PM, clockboy said:

It may be a simple fix. If the H/spring is not inside the regulator adjusting pins it will run just very fast and moving the regular arm will make no difference whatsoever. Well worth a check. 9 out of 10 times running fast is an escape issue. If confident it is not the escape a loose cannon pinion will be the issue. 

The spring was sitting at the bottom of the adjusting pins but was not seated between them.  I did move the spring to within the pins and it has performed better but is still running fast.  I will try moving the regulator to retard the balance wheel a bit as see .

Thank you all for helping me as I stumble through the basics!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I move the regulator arm all the way back to or as near as you can to the stud holder   (you will be letting all available length of the hairsrping to oscillate,  almost " free sprung" ) a healty hairspring should run slow then( in full length) and regulate somewhere in between. In case it still ran fast, we should look for the reason.

Good luck.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

46 minutes ago, cduke said:

The spring was sitting at the bottom of the adjusting pins but was not seated between them.  I did move the spring to within the pins and it has performed better but is still running fast.  I will try moving the regulator to retard the balance wheel a bit as see .

Thank you all for helping me as I stumble through the basics!

If the spring is low down it's a sign of the HS isn't flat either. 
If you move the regulator arm and it has no effect the hairspring for sure couldn't be right between the regulatur pins.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

49 minutes ago, HSL said:

If the spring is low down it's a sign of the HS isn't flat either. 
If you move the regulator arm and it has no effect the hairspring for sure couldn't be right between the regulatur pins.

After moving the spring between the guides, it has slowed down considerably.  I imagine there are multiple issues with this movement.

Thanks again for all your great comments and help!

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Good question!! Anyone know of a substitute movement??!! 🤔🙏
    • Interesting issue that I just noticed: this Seiko 5actus Watch from 1977 has a calibre listing on the dial of 7019-8030R but on the case back it says 7019-8010!! Like a mis-printed coin, is this watch therefore worth a lot of money for its rarity?? 🤪😲🤔🤪
    • I wish that was the case. The Aegler movements used in the early days by Wilsdorf & Davis (for brands like Rolex and Rolco) came in several sizes and without designated calibre numbers that survive.  They become a bit easier to identify during the 1920s. Below is an Aegler-Rebberg, 25.74mm in diameter. It’s from a woman’s Rolex wristwatch. Stamped Rebberg and 500 on the dial plate (but it isn’t a Rebberg 500, it’s the wrong size).  I’d be interested if anyone can identify the movement.  It is based off the Aegler Nr.1, circa 1903, but they based many many calibres of different sizes on it. The closest I have to a positive ID is the  ‘Rolex Nr.50’ circa 1917, but no dial side images or movement sizes are available in the references. There are identical looking movements in many sizes.  The 25.74mm of this movement is a particularly strange size for the era, it equates to 11.41 lignes.      Best Regards, Mark
    • It looks like this movement comes with a number of different shock settings. Emmywatch shows that it comes in versions with no shock settings, 'Incabloc', 'shock resist', and 'Supershock'. Perhaps the different settings position the impulse jewel/roller table in a non-ideal position relative to the pallet fork/guard pin. Are you able to check under high magnification if the pallet fork and roller table are able to operate without any interference? Just for fun I took a look and I have one FHF 70 in my collection, a West End Secundus with a non-shock protected FHF70. I had a note with the watch that said, "Movement is stamped 'FHF 70', but the FHF70 looks to have sub-seconds instead of center seconds movement (??)" but that a google search turned up both types for this movement. EDIT: I just took a look in my parts drawer and I have a few of these movements, both in center seconds and sweep seconds, but they all are non-shock protected.  
    • Any info on this watch would help. I know that it's sterling from London but I could not match the o letter date or make out makers mark.  Is the movement maker Camberwell or Lamberwell?   If I give it a twist it will run for about ten seconds.  $45 yard sale find.  I don't think that I want to service a fusee.  What quality is it?
×
×
  • Create New...