Jump to content

Re-bushing an FHF 15 cm movement


Joseph111

Recommended Posts

I have just stripped down an old FHF (old Hermle) clock movement and have noticed that there is a lot of wear on both the front and back plates from the pivots and I an fairly sure it needs new bushings fitting.

I have never had to do this before and was hoping for some general advice on how to do it, as well as what tools to potentially use. I am still working on dismantling the chiming mechanism which seemed to be jamming the main clock train every 15 minutes.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sorry about the delayed responce, I hadn't set up email notifications.

Here are two pictures of a couple of the worn bearings, I couldn't get a proper picture of the full plate as my phone wouldn't focus properly.

Thank you for your help. I should say that the clock did work (although the chimes are a problem) but I wanted to try and replace the bushings before they got any worse.

20200426_144640.jpg

20200426_144720.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi   The top pic the bearing is badly worn  the bottom one looks circular but that's not to say there is wear, in bothe cases check the pivots running in the bearing. once everything is ready and waiting then do the rebush, Moose had a similar problem and with help made a grand job of the bushing, so its not an impossible job and can be done by hand.  It takes care and a steady hand  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

16 hours ago, watchweasol said:

Hi   The top pic the bearing is badly worn  the bottom one looks circular but that's not to say there is wear, in bothe cases check the pivots running in the bearing. once everything is ready and waiting then do the rebush, Moose had a similar problem and with help made a grand job of the bushing, so its not an impossible job and can be done by hand.  It takes care and a steady hand  

I will have access to a pillar drill when I do the repair so that may help.

As for the punch marks, I have no idea where it has come from but before I first had a look at it a year ago, it hadn't worked in around 40 years and before that I don't know how often it was serviced.

Thank you for all the suggestions and help. I will get on with it when we are all allowed out again.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Make sure you drill where the centre of the whole used to be, rather than where the drill bit wants to take you, or if it is a small hole, try reaming it out with a jewelling tool, or a clock reaming tool if bigger. There will be a greater degree of control, because everything is slower

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Like John says  use a broach to cut the hole, I have used a pillar drill Necked down with a pin chuck but use a s short a bit as you can it stops it wandering. If you file out the hole fron the unworn side to even it up it helps to keep the drill/broach in the center . have a look at the link fir guidence                 https://www.davewestclocks.co.uk/Bushing.clock.plates.htm.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • For me any input from Mark would be great. If he's keeping a close eye i would imagine he has read about our concerns here. But specifically i would like to know if he is ok with us collecting each others contact information for those of us that wish to provide them. 
    • Hello and welcome from Leeds, England. 
    • Thank you!   Yes I did. I did not notice a difference. Although 9415 is advertised as a thixotropic grease (and I did had high hopes for it), the only advantage at this point I see is that its “easier” to apply than an oil (if one does not use epilame). But this is subjective, I guess. What I did notice though, if you apply a bit too much grease, that definitely slows down the movement. Oil in this case is a bit more forgiving, as its super thin, and it would usually just spread out.  Again, imho.
    • Mark keeps a close eye on his forum. I'm sure if you asked him he will reply, he might not do it right away but you will receive his answer.  
    • I kind of think the same, the surface under the oil is the same as the surface around the oil. Can epilame both repel and attract , that doesn't quite make sense in simple terms, but is it more complicated than that. When cohesive forces within a liquid are stronger than the adhesive forces of a surface then surface tension is high causing the liquid to bead up. So  an applied epilame coating reduces the adhesive force of a surface inhibiting a fluid to wet the surface. So i guess no epilame cannot both repel and attract . If something is keeping the oil in place on top of an epilamed surface then there must be another reason for that.
×
×
  • Create New...