Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Quartz Cal 352 - repair advice

[New2VintageWatches]

Hello all

 

Got a Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Quartz cal 352 on the cheap off of fleabay as a project.

 

Couple of questions

 

1) first thing I noticed is that the battery connecter is broken in half but all parts of it are still in the watch. Is there a way that this can be fixed? Should I try and solder it together?

 

2) the movement is not running as far as I can tell. Should I try to clean the movement in some naphtha and see if it’ll hold a charge afterwards?

 

I’m rather new to trying to repair a quartz movement so any advice is appreciated!

 

 

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[nickelsilver]

Can you post a pic of the movement and broken battery clamp? I don't think you can reliably solder it back together, but you may be able to either find a replacement or adapt one from another early quartz that uses that large of a battery (or even an electric movement). If I'm not mistaken it's a 357 or SR44SW battery. If you can get a battery in and connected, and it at least tries to pulse, then a general cleaning and oiling should get it running. It likely has never been serviced, and the oils will be totally dried out and/or gummed up; also, any sliver of steel (think screwdriver shaving a bit off a screw) will find its way to the rotor and stop it.

[watchweasol]

Hi  On possibility is to test the module from using a battery out side of the watch and a couple of probes to contact what remains of the negative terminal and the posative (plate of the watch) If you do this over a bench mirror and the circuit block is working the second hand should beat.. I have looked for a tech sheet on this module but so far no luck. To make an external power source is a handy device when working on quartz watches.  There is a ref sheet on Dr Ranfft's web site 

[watchweasol]

Hi I forgot to mention its under the Girard Perrgaux 352  Same movement.

[New2VintageWatches]

Here are pictures of the watch, movement, and broken battery clamp.

The replacement battery clamp is a good idea but no idea where I'll find one that has a similar L shape and screws in.




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[Graziano]

Hi there , very hard to find new clamp ,but it looks like it has a bit of meat there , I would solder it or try wire glue A soldering iron in a jar. Wire Glue is a electrically conductive adhesive that enables you to make solder-free connections when you don't have a soldering iron handy, or aren't able to apply heat for some reason. Hundreds of hobby, trade and electronics uses. Lead-free, cures overnight.https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Wire-Glue-9ml-electrically-conductive-adhesive-/221088138781#rwid .you should be able to get it wherever you live great stuff 

Edited March 4, 2020 by Graziano

[New2VintageWatches]

Thanks for the advice. I'm going to try the electric conductive epoxy and see if it works. Only concern I have is the strength of the bond but we'll see where it takes me.

Couple of questions

1) cleaning the movement. Should I try and clean the movement in some lighter fluid and see if it removes all the gunk and dirt?

2) is the battery I am trying to use the wrong one? There is a small silicone spacer inside of the movement where the battery goes. But when I lay the battery down it doesn't seem to lay correctly. This could be because the battery clamp isn't on but I would have expected a more solid fit.




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[Graziano]

I wouldn't clean the movement just yet .I would get that battery clamp sorted first ,then check for pulse . get back to us when you have achieved this .If the watch has no pulse you may have to try a 1.45 volt battery  .About 60 percent of early quartz watches that where to designed to run on 1.35 volts will run on a silver oxide 1.55 volts however some won't so a lower voltage one may fix this .Also do not oil a 352/3/4 pg movement when servicing because the staffs run on the tiniest bearings you will see and watch oil will mix with the nylon dust and turn to glue .......do not oil this movement .......Hope this helps https://www.oldswisswatches.com/watch-parts-branded/girard-perregaux-calibre-movement-and-spares/ try emailing if you need parts.When your ready  to check the movement if it runs or not .remove the white plastic wheel before inserting a new battery. It just pulls straight up off the metal post. If the small gold gear starts to move in jumps then the circuitry is good and it is the gear train that is the problem. If it doesn't move then the circuitry or stepper motor is bad

Edited March 4, 2020 by Graziano

[watchweasol]

Hi  Graziano  has given you some sound advise to try  There is also speedkollection.com in europe who is a purveyor of parts and part watches. also welwynwatchparts.co.uk.    If you cant get any bits I have some brass sheet which i have made bits from so if all else fails i can send you a bit to try and make another clamp it should not be too difficult.

[New2VintageWatches]

Alright all,

Ordered the electronic soldering paste and will see how it goes. It's expected to arrive tomorrow so hopefully I'll have an update this weekend.


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[Graziano]

43 minutes ago, New2VintageWatches said:

Alright all,

Ordered the electronic soldering paste and will see how it goes. It's expected to arrive tomorrow so hopefully I'll have an update this weekend.


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Hi , hopefully that works for you .If not try watchweasol 's method as this is also a good thought

[New2VintageWatches]

Hi  Graziano  has given you some sound advise to try  There is also speedkollection.com in europe who is a purveyor of parts and part watches. also welwynwatchparts.co.uk.    If you cant get any bits I have some brass sheet which i have made bits from so if all else fails i can send you a bit to try and make another clamp it should not be too difficult.

This is very nice of you. My only concern about this would be drilling a hole through the brass and also cutting it. Unfortunately I am in an apartment setting and don't have the dream home tool kit yet!

This is an interesting idea, maybe if the electric adhesive doesn't work I can go use a friend or family members.


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[Graziano]

21 minutes ago, New2VintageWatches said:

 

 

This is very nice of you. My only concern about this would be drilling a hole through the brass and also cutting it. Unfortunately I am in an apartment setting and don't have the dream home tool kit yet!

This is an interesting idea, maybe if the electric adhesive doesn't work I can go use a friend or family members.


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Hi that would be a good idea , see what watchweasol says we he gets back online . I'm hoping that the wire glue will work  as there is not much pressure on the clamp once in place . Just make sure you leave it as long as you can to cure ,at least overnight .

[nickelsilver]

That battery is not the right one, it's an alkaline, and you need silver oxide. The SR44Sw is the silver equivalent. It won't sit flat until held down by the clamp, the lower contact is sprung upwards.

[watchweasol]

Hi   At this stage of the proceedings soldering Is worth a try If all else fails you could send me the bits of the clamp spring and I will have a go at making one for you from the brass.  Just send me a PM   if you want  to do that.

[New2VintageWatches]

That battery is not the right one, it's an alkaline, and you need silver oxide. The SR44Sw is the silver equivalent. It won't sit flat until held down by the clamp, the lower contact is sprung upwards.

Thanks on this. I read up and realize that the alkaline is the same voltage can be different than the silver oxide.

Will try with the silver oxide once the battery clamp is fixed



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[New2VintageWatches]

Hi   At this stage of the proceedings soldering Is worth a try If all else fails you could send me the bits of the clamp spring and I will have a go at making one for you from the brass.  Just send me a PM   if you want  to do that.

That's very kind of you. I'm going to try the electronic soldering with the silver oxide battery and update.


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[watchweasol]

Hi  you are very welcome,  I wish you well

[rodabod]

That's a Girard Perregaux which JLC purchased as an ebauche or complete movement with their own engravings.

Don't bother repairing that tab until you've established that the circuit isn't knackered. To test, just bridge the terminal screw and top of the battery with some metallic tweezers. Check if the rotor advances..... Remember to make sure that the stop lever isn't activated - it hacks the gear train when the stem is pulled out to adjust, so you can observe its action.

The GP spares are virtually non-existant which is why I suggest testing before repairing the tab.

[New2VintageWatches]

That's a Girard Perregaux which JLC purchased as an ebauche or complete movement with their own engravings.
Don't bother repairing that tab until you've established that the circuit isn't knackered. To test, just bridge the terminal screw and top of the battery with some metallic tweezers. Check if the rotor advances..... Remember to make sure that the stop lever isn't activated - it hacks the gear train when the stem is pulled out to adjust, so you can observe its action.
The GP spares are virtually non-existant which is why I suggest testing before repairing the tab.

I'm still going to try and repair the tab as its going to require that anyways.

I purchased a multimeter tester with a 2.5 v setting that should tell if the watches electronics are working.

I found the instructions via this link http://linuxfocus.org/~guido/quartz-watch/


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[jdm]

14 minutes ago, New2VintageWatches said:

I purchased a multimeter tester with a 2.5 v setting that should tell if the watches electronics are working.

I found the instructions via this link http://linuxfocus.org/~guido/quartz-watch/

 

Not sure what 2.5v is about but for measuring current usage you must use a low (like 10) μA range and to safely measure coil continuity you need a low voltage (less than 400 mV, 0.4 V) to avoid blowing it. Running thread below.

Also, the advice (drop module in lighter fluid) is something that may work with a mechanical Timex, not an expensive quarts, I recommend that you do not follow that. For the best chances of having you watch running again I recommend that you give to a reputable repairer that specialize on quartz, of which there are a few.

 

[New2VintageWatches]

Not sure what 2.5v is about but for measuring current usage you must use a low (like 10) μA range and to safely measure coil continuity you need a low voltage (less than 400 mV, 0.4 V) to avoid blowing it. Running thread below.
Also, the advice (drop module in lighter fluid) is something that may work with a mechanical Timex, not an expensive quarts, I recommend that you do not follow that. For the best chances of having you watch running again I recommend that you give to a reputable repairer that specialize on quartz, of which there are a few.
 

The contact method with the tweezers did not work. There must be another issue with it.

Does anyone have recommendations for people to repair this?

I have a watch maker but he specializes mostly in mechanical watches.


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[watchweasol]

Hello my friend  The offer is still open if you wish,         Cheers and good luck.  

[jdm]

10 hours ago, New2VintageWatches said:

Does anyone have recommendations for people to repair this?

 

Check archerwatches.ca

[New2VintageWatches]

Hello Everyone 

 

long time no post on this but I wanted to share an update.

 

I was finally able to get this watch up and running. Chris Radek @ the time guy was able to diagnose and rewind the motor coil for this. Been working like a charm since!

 

This is a success story that I didn’t expect! 
 

now if someone could only recommend a place to get replacement glass / crystal for this weird shape

@jdm@watchweasol @nickelsilver @rodabod @Graziano

Edited May 18, 2021 by New2VintageWatches