Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi, new to repairing, just getting my feet wet, so be prepared for me to use incorrect language, and have things explained like I'm 5 :)

A couple years ago, I purchased a Seiko Sportsmatic Weekdater, cal. 6619-7050. 

Soon after purchase, the crown detached from the stem, and I took it in to local watchmaker for repair. It was returned in apparently good shape, but actually the problem still exists. 

I'd like to learn how to fix the problem, and hopefully bring this watch back to my wrist. 

It appears that the crown screws onto the stem, but that is as far as I have got. 

Any assistance would be welcomed. I did find a service manual elsewhere, but I'm a bit lost as it's my first. 

2020-02-01 14.36.39.jpg

2020-02-01 14.37.50.jpg

Seiko Sportmatic 6619A.pdf

Posted

Apply medium strength Loctite. It's not expensive but if you have no other use for you could try another weakish glue, like vinyl based, definitely NOT superglue cyan-acrylic. 

 

Posted

Simple as that. Huh. Thanks @jdm, @watchweasol. Loc tite 243 in the basket! 

I did notice the movement seems a bit loose in the case. Can either of you tell if it's missing anything from the pics, or do you need a better/different pic to tell? 

Trev. 

 

Posted
Just now, Trevelyan said:

I did notice the movement seems a bit loose in the case. Can either of you tell if it's missing anything from the pics, or do you need a better/different pic to tell? 

Once screwed in the caseback presses on the mov't ring, so nothing to worry.

  • Like 2
Posted
4 hours ago, watchweasol said:

Hi as jdm says use loctite or other thread locking cement. do not put too much on.       

   Loctite is # 1.    the 3 basic strengths have been around for years.   if you want to remove it,   250 degres F.  will losen it.  vin  

  • Like 1
Posted
12 hours ago, vinn3 said:

   Loctite is # 1.    the 3 basic strengths have been around for years.   if you want to remove it,   250 degres F.  will losen it.  vin  

   i forgot to mention;   both surfaces need to be free of oil.   alcohol or acetone.   vin

  • Similar Content

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I believe @nickelsilver has a setup like that.
    • I posted pictures earlier in this thread. My lathe and mill are two separate instruments. I think I have seen examples of putting a milling head on a lathe bed...but not certain.
    • Timex Camper, September 1994, new to me. Strap is an old perlon with "Germany" in script etched into the resin on the tail end. Not Horlon or Eulit I believe. History unknown, running strong, losing less than a minute a day. Goals for this: Wear it a ton! Buy crystal lift, clean out the gunk around the ring and under the crystal Eventually swap into a stainless steel case. I've seen a member who has swapped a Timex mechanical movement into the Timex J.Crew quartz field watch case.
    • One of the problems we would have with a watchmaker's lathe is they were made over considerable span of time and manufacturing in the early days probably wasn't as good as it was today. Then if you look at the older catalogs typically it was just the head a few collets and something to rest graver on. So basically a basic lathe with over time things acquired but acquired things may or may not fit. Order today you purchase a used lathe that all kinds of nifty bits and pieces from a seller that acquired from? This would come back to that the basic watchmaker's lathe was used for basic watchmaking like turning things with a hand graver. Then limited indexing is fine because you can make things like stems Which don't need a whole bunch indexing   In the link above the word vector is mentioned and at the link below you can purchase one. Then of course you're going to need the motor that's a little bit extra for the price. https://www.hswalsh.com/product/lathe-vector-watchmakers-48-collets-hl11. That you're going to need some bonus parts like these found this picture online show the classic way of classic gear cutting.   The lathe could have a much bigger indexing disk but it has to be mounted close to the edge. Otherwise you're going to have a whole bunch of smaller disks like this which I think has notches rather than holes. Then as wonderful as these pictures look actually cutting a gear with this is not entirely fun. Look at all is belts all pulling on things and this is a watchmaker's lathe lightweight with lots of bits and pieces attached. It would make more sense if you actually cut a gear with something like this and it tends to be it's not really the best way to do it looks nice on paper but it is not the best way to go. Reality for cutting watch parts would be a bigger machine is much better. Than getting rid of all those belts and pulleys also good. Here is an interesting channel I would've liked of found a different video but this was nice and short if you look at his video as he uses a stepping motor and worm gear assembly for the indexing plate. In this particular video it gets attached to the lathe at about one minute and seven seconds and it looks like it's hiding looks like he has a Sherline. I do know he's had other stuff you'll just have to go through his videos to find it. Then at about one minute and 22 seconds you find out if you set up things appropriately. It's always bad we end up with half a tooth at the very end. Then you will note big lathe yes he's getting a big gear but you could easily cut a watch gear with the setup. And it definitely way more stable than a watchmaker's lathe.         Oh here's a company they been in business since 1911 http://www.fwderbyshireinc.com/  
    • Hello and welcome from Leeds, England. 
×
×
  • Create New...